What feeler stock do I need to set the tappets hot?

[MarcDeSoto]

I need .008 for intake valves and .010 feeler stock for exhaust valves clearance when the engine is running hot.  My stubby feeler gauge is too short to do this very well.  Do they sell individual feeler gauge stock for this, and is the feeler gauge destroyed after use?  I know they sell long feeler gauges of 12", but they are in a set.  Should I get straight stock or offset for this job?  

Edited November 26, 2022 by MarcDeSoto

[JohnTeee]

When I worked on the valves several years ago, I used a regular feeler gauge set with straight blades. They are not destroyed when using them with the engine hot. Gotta watch that hot exhaust!

 

I just picked up an inexpensive set from O'Reilly, with bent ends, that should make it much easier the next time I do it hot. Even helped a  bit when setting them cold.

 

John

[MarcDeSoto]

Yes, your hands are right below the hot exhaust manifold.  I was thinking I should use heavy welder's gloves for this job, but it's a delicate job that requires dextrous fingers holding wrenches and feeler stock.  Maybe I can use the heavy welder gloves except cut the fingers off.  That woud protect my hands while freeing up my fingers.  

[Sam Buchanan]

This is not as demanding a task as you fear....you won't even have to sit inside the fender to do this......almost cheating. 

 

Gloves are ok, but regular mechanic's gloves will do, welder's gloves would really be awkward. I used the set of gauges that have been in my toolbox forever, nothing special needed.

Edited November 27, 2022 by Sam Buchanan

[Bryan G]

Ditto, I sweated over it but it really wasn't that bad. Most valves go really easy, just some access issues around the center of the manifold. I used my old straight feelers and had no problem. After one round, I could hear a little noise from a couple so went back and touched them up.

[Dansk]

Is it adequate to just set the valves .002" over when cold (i.e. 0.010" intake and 0.012"exhaust)?

[Sam Buchanan]

I found it interesting how a running valve that is properly set will "suck" the feeler gauge into the gap.

[MarcDeSoto]

39 minutes ago, Dansk said:

Is it adequate to just set the valves .002" over when cold (i.e. 0.010" intake and 0.012"exhaust)?

I would say no, since the shop manual says to set the valves at .014 for both intake and exhaust valves when cold.  

[Dodgeb4ya]

.014" is for when checking valve timing on the S11.

.008"/.010" is the correct hot spec for the intake and exhaust valves.

.002" is generally the accepted amount to add when adjusting the MoPar flat head valves when the engine is cold.

Say like right after a valve job.

I would re-check them though @ .008"/.010"  after the engine is hot ..running or not.

 

[rallyace]

You can purchase individual 12" feeler gauges in whatever thickness you want from McMaster Carr. They are only a couple of bucks each.

[Bryan G]

I can say that I initially set using the cold specs, and found that they were quite far off when I went to do them hot.

[9 foot box]

   I bought a couple Craftsman tappet wrenches, 44472 and 44475. I had the .002”-.012” feeler gauges in my set. I put the indexing disc under the rotor with cyl. No.1 at TDC held in place and turned engine over to No.5, mark pulley, hold disc, turn engine to No.3 and mark pulley. No.6 cyl. will be at TDC, No.2 will be at mark on pulley and line on disc, same as No.4 cyl. I set my tappets not running on an up to temperature engine, with the right front wheel and inner fender panel removed. The indexing disc and/or marks on the front pulley is handy for a leak down test also. 

[MarcDeSoto]

9 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

.014" is for when checking valve timing on the S11.

Is valve timing something different than adjusting the tappet clearance?  If so, I guess I've never heard of it.