Running board rubber replacement 1935 PJ

[rrunnertexas]

The original running board material on my 1935 Plymouth PJ is in need of replacement.  Some searching showed a few companies that

make new, original type material and they look great, except for the big price tag ($800 and up).

 

Is there a lower cost option for replacement, maybe cut your own from a similar looking material that still looks nice?

 

Thanks,

David

[Bryan]

Got to looing thru sites.. Roberts Motor PartsAntique Dodge Truck Parts Antique Plymouth Parts Antique Dodge Parts Running board rubber Chrysler Dodge truck Plymouth Desoto 1928 1929 1930 1931 1932 1933 1934 1935 1936 1937 1938 1939 1940 1941

[Sam Buchanan]

I found running board rubber mat on eBay for the "hidden" running boards on my P15. The front rubber is the new stuff and the rear is original style. Here is one eBay vendor:

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/202111846000?hash=item2f0ece0670:g:1AAAAOxy4M5R~dez

 

 

[Bryan]

33 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

I found running board rubber mat on eBay for the "hidden" running boards on my P15. The front rubber is the new stuff and the rear is original style. Here is one eBay vendor:

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/202111846000?hash=item2f0ece0670:g:1AAAAOxy4M5R~dez

 

 

That beats $185.. ?

[Rodney_Hamon]

I’m at this moment as well needing new rubber. Either Roberts or the EBay supplier has me rethinking. I was just going to next week drop off the running bds to a powdercoater/sandblaster to have them put a textured black finish on. I was feeling like I didn’t want to contact cement rubber material again.  Is it a sin to think like this for my ‘36 dodge truck ? The truck is not show quality but it’s decent. Sam’s running bd’s are looking really good to me right now. I’m confused now. Running boards can be so sexy to the vehicle for sure. 

[rrunnertexas]

Sure looks like the material is the same thing from the ebay vendor and Robert's.

 

So far, it appears that this material is the solution unless you have big $$ for the original type.

 

Rodney - Had not thought of power coating with texture, but in my opinion, rubber on the boards will look nicer.

 

After pulling one side off, I see that the very front edge is about 17" wide - the ebay vendor offers an 18" width which might work well.

[Rodney_Hamon]

Rubber sheeting or vulcanized rubber does look awesome. I like that you have a trim piece to finish off the bottom before it wraps around to underneath. My only issue with a thicker texture coating is will it fill in the many holes that are in the running bd or will it look crappy with holes showing. I wanted to talk to the coaters to hear what they say. 

[rrunnertexas]

Well, it is ordered from the ebay vendor, 18" width and might arrive next week.  

 

A fun project for sure.  I'm thinking of using a trim adhesive to attach it to the metal board.  Any suggestions?

 

 

[bamfordsgarage]

5 hours ago, rrunnertexas said:

…A fun project for sure.  I'm thinking of using a trim adhesive to attach it to the metal board.  Any suggestions?

 

 

My experience with trim adhesive is that some types never fully dry (similar to contact cement) and thus edges can lift over time if the material is so inclined. 
 

If it were me I would use a premium construction adhesive or Right Stuff gasket maker. This last stuff, in my experience, is  like miracle in a tube. I’ve used it to glue all kinds of materials together and even ‘repair’ cracked water jackets — repairs that last for years. 

[Sniper]

I recently replaced the cowl vent gasket on my Cambridge.  Used 3M weatherstrip adhesive.  Follow the directions and that stuff is no joke.  You had better have the rubber exactly where you want it because once they touch you aren't going to be moving it.  No idea how well it would work as a trim adhesive though.  Bet 3M makes something that does the trick though.  Sometimes it pays to get the expensive stuff to do the job. 

 

This might be the ticket

 

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40069410/

[Rodney_Hamon]

I agree that 3M adhesive is no joke. I’ve used it and it’s permanent.  I took my running bd’s to the powder coater yesterday. He said he would bake them in the oven at 400 deg. for a time to loosen up the dried residue from the Weldmans contact cement which by the way held up quite well for 48 years.  I went with a black texture called “Tuxedo Black” as that would look good alone or with rubber matt applied to it. Get them back in 3 weeks and I’ll post a pix to see what you think.  

[Rodney_Hamon]

Got the running bds back today and was a little surprised after unwrapping that the texture kinda looks like bed liner spray. Ha. Still is better than it was. Still thinking if I want to buy the rubber and cut a pattern and glue it on top. But at least this gives me time to do other things. I may just plug the holes with something for now. Grommets?  Tasteful fasteners from Ace hardware?  Wheel came out fantastic btw. 

[Rodney_Hamon]

Thought I should show that rim since we were talking about powder coating.  I have no regret coating the running boards.  They do look good 

[Eneto-55]

Everybody here probably knows this, but just in case, one way to get stuff lined up after the cement is applied to both surfaces is a trick a carpenter taught me when I was 17 (now getting close to 50 years ago - Where does the time go?), helping him redo the shower in the utility room at my folks house.  There was one place where the copper water pipes come up out of the cement, and he looks at me, and says, "How do we get this formica back behind those pipes w/o it getting stuck in the wrong place?"  (Obviously, he already knew - he wanted me to think about it first.)  He had some thin wood strips, stuck them to the wall in various places, slid the formica in, then pulled them out one at a time.  I've used that trick many times since then, building tables, kitchen and bathroom counters, etc.