'53 B-4TA-190 Fire Engine

[E37Bruco]

This is what it looks like together. I imagine if creates some amount of restriction to the flow. I'm going to call the previous owner too and ask if he removed the thermostat when it over heated in 2005. 

[Dodgeb4ya]

I wouldn't have a clue on that question..

?

Wondered what that was...

[E37Bruco]

Worse case, I plug it and hope the engine temps get to normal operating temperature - ish. I'm trying to find someone to re-coil it.

 

I could remove the coil and find a T-stat. Is the spacer needed? I may struggle to find that 

[Dodgeb4ya]

Are you asking about the cast steel spacer ring that holds the thermostat into the housing?

If so yes you need it.

 

[E37Bruco]

7-41-28 spacer. Looking down into my T-stat housing it doesn't seem to have anything in there at all. 

[Dodgeb4ya]

And here is a couple pics of one apart and together..

I left the rubber gasket out..

[48Dodger]

11 hours ago, E37Bruco said:

This is what it looks like together. I imagine if creates some amount of restriction to the flow. I'm going to call the previous owner too and ask if he removed the thermostat when it over heated in 2005. 

 

Is that an after market add on, to pressurize the cooling  system? Never seen that before.

 

48D

[E37Bruco]

1 hour ago, 48Dodger said:

 

Is that an after market add on, to pressurize the cooling  system? Never seen that before.

 

48D

That's part of the fire pump. Because fire engines can sit for an hour at high RPMs pumping water they circulate cooler water thru a coil around the motor's coolant discharge hose to help cool down the motor. 

[E37Bruco]

Ugh, I can't get a single fuel connection on this truck to stop leaking. Tank to line, line to pump, line blanked from second tank, lines at the tees for the carb. Wtf. It's all tight brass flare connections. Never had this many leaks before. 

[Dodgeb4ya]

You have to tighten these Chinese fittings you need to use a breaker bar.

 Though I have never had too much of these leaks with any of mine but I try to use mostly factory old used fittings.

[E37Bruco]

I've tried non-hardening rtv. May try hardening next. 

[Dodgeb4ya]

No sealant is used on inverted flare fittings.....only on the pipe thread portion if used...sparingly.

You should carefully look at the crushed contact area of the male and female parts.For some reason there is not 360 degree's of contact thus permitting leakage.

Edited June 4, 2022 by Dodgeb4ya
Pics

[ggdad1951]

single flare or double flare?

 

[E37Bruco]

The leaks are all at npt connections, remember I didn't use original hoses. Only flare leaking is the aux tank connection. 

 

I think I'm just gonna order that flared tee. The glass fuel filters maybe a problem tho bc they are different sized inlets and outlets, 1/8 in and 1/4 out? 

Edited June 4, 2022 by E37Bruco

[Dodgeb4ya]

I use permatex #1 hardening sealant on difficult to seal automotive NPT fittings.

The 413's generally use high flow needle and seat fittings requiring 1/4" pipe outlets on the glass bowl fuel filters as you know.

If you cannot find these 1/8 X 1/4 filters...only finding or have the typical 1/8 X 1/8 you can drill out and tap to 1/4" the smaller pipe thread filter.

 

[E37Bruco]

Ya I'm struggling to find and 1/4 1/8 filters. I found a 1/4 in/out filter top. May have to drill and tap 2 new 1/8s

 

 

Hmmm well I have 1 good topper. The other has the brass seized in the 1/8 inlet. No harm trying to heat and back that out or drill it then. Have 2 good glass bowls and springs. Need 2 new metal holding straps tho. And obviously new filter inserts. 

Edited June 4, 2022 by E37Bruco

[E37Bruco]

So I have pieces to make 1 complete filter. Ordered proper brass tee. Ordered a 2nd glass filter. 

 

I was able to get the snapped brass fitting out of the other filter head, but I cracked the housing in doing it. No bowl, spring, or strap for this. I'll rtv the adapter in and use the ordered filter to complete it. I'll test with air pressure and soap. Otherwise I'll have to drill and tap the ordered filter to 1/4 npt outlet. 

 

 

Also found 4 NOS brake shoe springs for the front. I'll have 2 spares now. Waiting to hear if the 1-1/2 bore cylinders we got fit or if I gotta rebuild the original step bore cylinders.

Edited June 4, 2022 by E37Bruco

[Dodgeb4ya]

It's a bumpy road you're traveling through but your navigation skills are excellent in finding and figuring out to get'er done! 

[E37Bruco]

Front brakes solved! Napa part #UP 28803 is a 1-1/2" bore cylinder that fits perfectly for 16x2.5 brakes (3 to 4 ton front axles). 

 

* Pay no attention to that return spring, it's Vic's dodge garage 16" spring. Hair too long. 

[E37Bruco]

Do you use windshield sealant on the gasket or are they tight enough to be water proof? If sealant, both the rubber to body and runner to glass channels?

[E37Bruco]

Boom! Lol pressurized and no leaks. I'll swap back the original setup next week.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Leaks in automotive repairs at times can  be so difficult to stop at times.

I know....did this work for forty years.

Glad to see you got the leaks fixed and will get it back to factory fuel line design.?

[Dodgeb4ya]

On 6/8/2022 at 5:09 PM, E37Bruco said:

Do you use windshield sealant on the gasket or are they tight enough to be water proof? If sealant, both the rubber to body and runner to glass channels?

As for sealer needed...yes glass and body.

Type and procedure....I'm not the person to give the proper advise.?

[E37Bruco]

Ta-da!

[Dodgeb4ya]

That looks great! Well done.

One step closer to driving down the freeway in a mad rush to a car fire?