Crisjr14 Posted October 27, 2021 Report Posted October 27, 2021 (edited) Hello I am trying to find out if anyone can help me to find out what body style my 1953 dodge meadowbrook it is a D46 e.i. a body, b body etc. Please and thanks for any help Edited October 27, 2021 by Crisjr14 Wording Quote
greg g Posted October 27, 2021 Report Posted October 27, 2021 (edited) It is what it is. A Meadowbrook sedan. Can't tell from the pic if it is 2door or 4 door. Meadowbrook was the entry level trim for 53. It's engineering code was D 46 or d47 depending on wheelbase. 119 inch being the d47. The higher trimed and furnished model was the Coronet. There might have been an upgraded Coronet called the Royal, but that may have been a 54 or 55 package. Your car is likely a 230 with fluid drive and a three speed manual transmission, a dry clutch three speed was also available, but I think most were built with fluid drive. Threespeed with overdrive was also optional.The other transmission would have been the gyromatic semi automatic. If it is gyromatic it would have a badge on the dash, trunk lid or rear bumper. https://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/brochures_1953_dodge Edited October 27, 2021 by greg g Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 27, 2021 Report Posted October 27, 2021 (edited) it is a D46 and as Greg says..it is a M-brook built on the full size frame of 119 inch. The other designation body codes A, B, C, E etc etc did not come into play until later. Even if it is a two door, you have a sedan body and not a coupe body....note the divided rear window... Edited October 27, 2021 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
Crisjr14 Posted October 27, 2021 Author Report Posted October 27, 2021 Great thanks you guys I appreciate it and it is a 4 door I was trying to figure out what parts I'm needing to do a king pin front end suspension rebuild tie rods bushings etc. Quote
greg g Posted October 27, 2021 Report Posted October 27, 2021 O Rielys has tie rod ends just got them for mine. Price range was 17 to 35 bucks. I BELIEVE the inner have left hand threads and outer have right hand. Either way I believe you need two of each. King pins have a tapered key that needs to be driven out from the correct direction. Can't remember the where fors of those. It's in the manual if you have one. If not check your local library for a motors manual for your model year. Quote
Crisjr14 Posted October 27, 2021 Author Report Posted October 27, 2021 Thank you Greg g I'm thinking maybe just getting the tie rods ends for now the ones on the wheels were the ones shaking real loose the most and started to wear my new cooker tires I got and as for the right handed and left handed all four nuts came off the regular way Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 27, 2021 Report Posted October 27, 2021 (edited) Greg is referring to left and right hand rod threads that enter the turnbuckle that is the very means you set the track width..not on the the tapers of the knuckle I do recommend that you acquire a book...lots of info and safety notes within to protect you the part and car in general Edited October 27, 2021 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
greg g Posted October 27, 2021 Report Posted October 27, 2021 They are like a turn buckle on a boxing ring rope.turning one way shortens them, the other lengthens them thus the toe in and out are adjusted. Measure, set the new ones as you can, or count the threads that are exposed and transfer to the new ones. Quote
Crisjr14 Posted October 27, 2021 Author Report Posted October 27, 2021 Greg g thanks and I was going to do that get them as close as I can and then take it to have alignment done pretty sure they can do the final amusements needed correct? Quote
Dave72dt Posted October 28, 2021 Report Posted October 28, 2021 Best you'll get is a ballpark alignment if any other parts of the front suspension is loose. Accurate alignment requires tight suspension components, matched tires, side to side and equal tire pressures, side to side. Quote
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