Bryan Posted December 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2021 (edited) On the bolts holding the transmission to the bell housing, upper left one was missing, and I had the feeling a couple were too short. Pic below, there is a third hole above these two that was empty. Lower bolt hole used area looks too short. Also looking at the clutch, given what I can see (bearing and arm) looks like I'll probably be replacing it. Edited December 6, 2021 by Bryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2021 Got 2 small pecan trees planted this morning. Finally got all the small bolts out of the vibration damper. Had to use a Dremel on a few of them to clean the heads up (straighten flat sides) so I could get a socket on them. Also had to use the Dremel on the big center nut. Someone had used a chisel to try to turn the nut. Buggered it up. Got the engine turning most of the way. Got a few stuck valves. Was careful pulling with the bar, plenty of penetrating oil & a little torch work. Used some brake fluid on them..maybe let it set tonight. Valves are really rusty. Also measured and checked for bolts that I will need. Buying bolts gets expensive. Been using McMaster-Carr, they have a good selection and smaller quantities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2021 I should have taken pictures of the damper sides..One side is really eat up from someone letting the puller slip, or beating on it. Don't know how well these are balanced but seems like it would affect the balance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2021 Dang, that took a while. Was trying to order various bolts for ones that were rusted or stripped, plus my motor mount and guide bolts. Started with McMaster-Carr, got up to $90 and stopped. Started looking around and went with Bolt Depot at $44. Bolt Depot lets you order individual bolts. McMaster-Carr has a better selection, will have to grind 3 Bolt Depot bolts from 3" L to 2 3/4". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted December 7, 2021 Report Share Posted December 7, 2021 16 hours ago, Bryan said: I should have taken pictures of the damper sides..One side is really eat up from someone letting the puller slip, or beating on it. Don't know how well these are balanced but seems like it would affect the balance. It's funny how they decided to install dampeners or not. I have had 4 engines in the shop over the last couple of years. 50 Plymouth, 51 Plymouth, 56 Plymouth and ? Dodge, None of them have had dampeners nor any evidence of ever having one, just a pulley bolted to a hub (56) or an integral hub and pulley (all the others). Inline sixes don't have the same sort of torsional vibration issues and other types so they could get away with not having one I guess. Maybe they added them to more luxurious models only for that last little bit of smoothness? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2021 ##$%%@@@** - great antique valve spring compressor from Ebay has screw stripped out. Went to use it today and found it. Can probably fix it but irritating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2021 Got it fixed..removed 2 valves. One is being a pain. But it's going. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2021 Pictures for today..only 2 valves removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted December 7, 2021 Report Share Posted December 7, 2021 I got one of those style spring compressors, but without the screw handle you have. I think it's for a Briggs and Stratton motor, lol. I ended up buying a big C clamp looking one new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted December 7, 2021 Report Share Posted December 7, 2021 Valve looks regrindable, seat doesn't look so good though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48jumpdoors Posted December 8, 2021 Report Share Posted December 8, 2021 On 11/15/2021 at 8:49 AM, Bryan said: Quick break today..waiting for it to get warmer so I can crawl underneath. Used the time to make sure shocks and solenoid I bought actually fit (before I wait 6 months to find they don't). Measuring heater hose, wires etc. so I am sorting out my wire connections to my solenoid after my Dad was starting with 12v and running on 6v. I was wondering if my Dad had used the original 6v solenoid or if he would have had to use a 12v solenoid? can anyone tell me how to tell the difference, and also will any 6v solenoid work on my P15 as long as the connections are the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted December 8, 2021 Report Share Posted December 8, 2021 That "KD" style valve spring compressor is made specifically for the car/truck flathead engines. A good tool. Of course if the screw is not lubed it will sieze up. Operator error. I have used the exact same KD style one hundreds of times since I bought it when I was 18. ? My favorite go to flathead valve spring compressor. I also have my old "Bluepoint" C-clamp one too. I mainly used it for out of engine work and more modern OHV jobs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2021 6 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said: That "KD" style valve spring compressor is made specifically for the car/truck flathead engines. A good tool. Of course if the screw is not lubed it will sieze up. Operator error. I have used the exact same KD style one hundreds of times since I bought it when I was 18. ? My favorite go to flathead valve spring compressor. I also have my old "Bluepoint" C-clamp one too. I mainly used it for out of engine work and more modern OHV jobs. It worked well once I fixed it. Set to my spring width I shouldn't ever have to change it again. Just wish the guy selling it would have noticed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2021 6 hours ago, 48jumpdoors said: so I am sorting out my wire connections to my solenoid after my Dad was starting with 12v and running on 6v. I was wondering if my Dad had used the original 6v solenoid or if he would have had to use a 12v solenoid? can anyone tell me how to tell the difference, and also will any 6v solenoid work on my P15 as long as the connections are the same? I would think since the solenoid is only used for starting it would need to be the same voltage as for starting. They are rather cheap. More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS SS544A (rockauto.com) Don't know how to tell by looking at them which is which. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48jumpdoors Posted December 8, 2021 Report Share Posted December 8, 2021 12 hours ago, Bryan said: I would think since the solenoid is only used for starting it would need to be the same voltage as for starting. They are rather cheap. More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS SS544A (rockauto.com) Don't know how to tell by looking at them which is which. ah that makes sense, and since you would not ordinarily crank and crank on the starter with 12v the solenoid may still be good, also I just bought a used 6v solenoid from an antique store if it has the same connections is it possible that it would work? Thanks Bryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2021 1 hour ago, 48jumpdoors said: ah that makes sense, and since you would not ordinarily crank and crank on the starter with 12v the solenoid may still be good, also I just bought a used 6v solenoid from an antique store if it has the same connections is it possible that it would work? Not sure. Not sure how he was doing that, but if you have the 12V isolated only for starting I reckon the only thing that could be damaged is the starter and solenoid. As you say, if you only apply 12V momentarily there's less chance of damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2021 On 12/5/2021 at 1:08 PM, Sniper said: Link to reasonable price source? Ordered From Marx - $31.78 with postage to SC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48jumpdoors Posted December 10, 2021 Report Share Posted December 10, 2021 6 hours ago, Bryan said: Ordered From Marx - $31.78 with postage to SC. Im going with the original solenoid for my initial start up and see what happens, I took all the battery cables and grounding cable off today as they are 12v sizes. My local Napa will make new cables for me. I wire brushed the mounting location/solenoid and its wire connections as well. Then its on to the carb rebuild. Thanks for your thoughts on the project. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2021 On 12/7/2021 at 11:24 PM, Dodgeb4ya said: That "KD" style valve spring compressor is made specifically for the car/truck flathead engines. A good tool. Of course if the screw is not lubed it will sieze up. Operator error. I have used the exact same KD style one hundreds of times since I bought it when I was 18. ? My favorite go to flathead valve spring compressor. I also have my old "Bluepoint" C-clamp one too. I mainly used it for out of engine work and more modern OHV jobs. It broke again. Not talking about the large screw. I didn't realize the small screw holding the rod between the upper and lower forks not only holds the lower fork together side to side, it also holds the upper and lower forks together and takes the full force of the spring. It has to be high strength metal. It bent, broke and took a chunk out of the center piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2021 Today did not go well. Besides the spring compressor tool breaking again, I managed to break a valve. Had an open end wrench under the valve tapping upwards on the wrench handle with a hammer. Was strictly upwards force. Stem broke off about an inch from the head. Stuck in the valve guide. Reckon it doesn't matter too much since I'm having new guides put in, still was surprising. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted December 10, 2021 Report Share Posted December 10, 2021 Ow, better to break now than when it's running I guess. I know, looking real hard for the silver lining. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2021 3 minutes ago, Sniper said: Ow, better to break now than when it's running I guess. I know, looking real hard for the silver lining. I didn't mess with trying to get it out. Am I correct that it won't cause any issues when the overhauler goes to press the guides out? I was planning on new guides and valves. Might reuse the tappets..they look good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted December 10, 2021 Report Share Posted December 10, 2021 I don't know. One way I have pressed valves out is to fit up something between the tappet and valve then roll the engine over and use the cam to push the valve out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2021 23 hours ago, Sniper said: I don't know. One way I have pressed valves out is to fit up something between the tappet and valve then roll the engine over and use the cam to push the valve out. It's almost out but run out of bolts.. ? Six different combinations of bolts, washers, nuts...I started with a large nut on its side, then used a larger one. Got the stem up flush with the bottom of the guide and started using bolts with stem up, smaller than the guide. Stacking nuts under bolt heads, etc. Turning the motor, starting over, stacking. Started to get dark and windy here and ran out of bolts, didn't feel like rummaging in the tool shed anymore. Got a good 1 1 /2" sticking out and a pair of vise grips still can't twist it out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2021 Ordered another valve spring compressor today. Did trial fit of dual headers. Worked on getting a stuck valve out. Rest of my Rock Auto wheel cylinders came in. If I get all the valves out and pull the crank pulley off I'll be ready to pull the engine out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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