Found my camshaft! - Pulling motor on 1948 Dodge.

[knuckleharley]

1 hour ago, LazyK said:

Front clip / dog house is the front fenders, inner fenders, hood, all the body parts in front of the firewall/windshield

BTW,once you pull the front clip,the length of the legs and boom on the engine hoists can be shortened. You won't have to lift so high to pull the engine. Best of all,once you do pull the engine,you can lay a couple of 2x6's across the boom legs and just let the engine down on them and then push it out of your way.

 

You will,of course,need an engine stand once you start working on the engine,but you can buy that later.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Thanks for the information.

I do though have a very good commercial type USA manufactured rental hoist. 

I have used it on many many jobs over the years.

Sixes...straight eights and Hemi's and others including............

 A Yugo.?

A straight "8" being pulled from a 50 T&C.

 No dog house or hood removal necessary.

Edited October 6, 2021 by Dodgeb4ya
Spelling error

[49D-24BusCpe]

     

    For my 23" 230 engine to my 25" DeVal 265 engine swap, we pulled the complete front-end as a unit.

 

   To accomplish the moving of the radiator, the modifications of the front crossmember, and a very slight change to the firewall, this was definitely the cleanest and easiest approach!

 

 

 

 

[Bryan]

Yep, if only I had that much garage space and the front end had already been painted.  While the engine is out for overhaul I'll be sanding parts and using rust reformer. Will put it back together later and let a paint shop do the exterior hood, pan and exterior fenders.  Plus still have to do the brakes, gas lines, under hood wiring etc.

[Bryan]

Got my load leveler and 2000 lb motor stand today from Harbor Freight. Beat the rain coming back.   Still accumulating tools..

[knuckleharley]

3 hours ago, Bryan said:

Got my load leveler and 2000 lb motor stand today from Harbor Freight. Beat the rain coming back.   Still accumulating tools..

It occured to me maybe 20 years ago that I fool around with old cars to give me an excuse to buy tools. I usually lose interest in the cars after a few months,and put them up for sale.

I have never put any tools up for sale.

[Bryan]

Crud...looking around on my computer I forgot I had a detailed article how to remove and overhaul an engine. 9MB PDF that's too large to post. December 2001 issue of Auto Restorer..article by Curt McConnell.

[Bryan]

So now that my 2 week wait after eye surgery and a week of having a cold is finished tried working on my D24 again.  Only worked 3 hrs, still weak.  At least I stripped the rubber cover off of headlight , park and horn wiring to see the original colors. This car has never been touched.  What I found that might be interesting:   The wire to the park and head lights is covered in rubber tubing, not electrical tape. When it cracks it does so in a spiral and looks like tape, it's not.  The wires from the terminal on the front vertical pan near the driver side headlight going towards the firewall ARE covered in electrical tape. Once cut it would unwind.   The black wire to the headlights has one row of dashes, but the black wire to the firewall has two rows (see pictures).   Horn wiring is green with 3 rows of dashes.   The front pan, cowl etc has some kind of tar paper or thin rubber separating the pieces.

[Bryan]

On both passenger & driver side headlights the "passenger" terminal on the headlight plugs go to the center terminal on the strip.   The "Drive" terminal on the headlight plugs go to the rear terminal on the strip. Ground wire on the headlight plug goes to the headlight rim.  The park light yellow wires go to the front terminal on the strip.  Green horn wire goes with the others towards firewall.

[Bryan]

And I forgot to mention but maybe the pictures show it...the red wire to the headlights is dark red with white (or yellow) dashes.  The red wire from the terminal strip is a light red color with dark red dashes.   One thing I noticed on schematics..if it has turn signals there is an extra wire to the park lights.   I might add a wire to the park lights and cap it off when I replace all the wiring.

[Bryan]

Took the battery and holder out. Started documenting wiring so I know where it goes later.  Thinking about adding a connector at the firewall. Wiring is good a few inches out of firewall. Driver's side fender seems attached to engine dust panel. 

[Bryan]

More work today, still going to go back out..cold and windy.  Driver's side fender  - the dust protection (vertical pans) were in one piece and could not be taken off first like the passenger side..had to reach and take off the vertical bolts near the doors. Remove fender then pan.   From the looks of the exteriors of the solenoid, horn relay and dimmer switch I wonder if I should just replace without even checking them later.

[Bryan]

Done for today...

[Bryan]

Little more done today. Got the generator off, spark plug harness and oil vent tube. 35A generator.  Spent a lot of time trying to get the fittings loose to the oil filter. Sure don't want to break them off.  Loosened a few more manifold bolts.  Took more pics than I actually post.. a lot of detail.

[Bryan]

Ordering more parts, shocks, rubber mounts and took a chance on getting the right starter solenoid..

[Art Bailey]

18 hours ago, Bryan said:

Little more done today. Got the generator off, spark plug harness and oil vent tube. 35A generator.  Spent a lot of time trying to get the fittings loose to the oil filter. Sure don't want to break them off.  Loosened a few more manifold bolts.  Took more pics than I actually post.. a lot of detail.

I replaced all of the lines to the oil filter and oil pressure gauge, and also replaced the fittings on my oil filter. Glad I did, it was a serious leaker. I also ran a bead of JB Weld around the seam that's at the bottom of the oil filter canister. No more leaks in any of those areas. The only fitting I wasn't able to source was the lower brass one into the engine. It still leaks the tiniest amount around the bubble flare nut, but I plan to put a blob of Permatex black gasket maker there, that should deal with it. Except for the one going to the oil pressure gauge, if it were me, I'd just cut the lines going to the engine with side cutters, and deal with the fittings on the bench, and hope that the fittings into the engine come out easily.

[Sniper]

How did you get that oil fill tube out?  I tried to get the one out of my 230 but no dice, so far.

[Bryan]

1 hour ago, Sniper said:

How did you get that oil fill tube out?  I tried to get the one out of my 230 but no dice, so far.

I just wiggled it back and forth and pulled up. Been spraying every connection with PB Blaster.   Just got the oil cannister off and other oil fittings. Used my Map gas torch on the oil line fittings.

[Bryan]

 Today's work went well..about 75F in South Carolina.   Some things I found strange..why did they route the distributor vacuum line under the short hose from the thermostat?  The heater hose fitting with the internal tube looks strange.  Also, I think my father put on a manual choke and disconnected the wire to the auto choke. Found it dangling, and remembered he always used the manual choke and was showing me how far to pull it out.   Testing some of the intake/exhaust manifold bolts..the center ones are in a bad location and also won't move..outer ones I got them loosened.

[Sniper]

that odd heater hose fitting is also part of the thermostat bypass setup.  My 51 has a different design altogether so apparently Chrysler decided it needed fixed at some point.

[Bryan]

59 minutes ago, Sniper said:

that odd heater hose fitting is also part of the thermostat bypass setup.  My 51 has a different design altogether so apparently Chrysler decided it needed fixed at some point.

Talk about a round hole in a square peg... Also what do you think about blocking the auto choke off (father left the wire hanging) ?   Mine has a manual choke.

[Sniper]

Mine works just fine.  Your Dad probably rigged the manual setup because it quit working.  You can reattach it and see, if it doesn't work fixing it can get expensive as the Sisson choke assembly, if that is what is wrong, is a bit pricey these days.

[Bryan]

Can someone look at the picture of the water temperature sender I posted.  Does the big fitting come out too?  I can't heat it up with the torch too much.

[Sniper]

10 minutes ago, Bryan said:

Can someone look at the picture of the water temperature sender I posted.  Does the big fitting come out too?  I can't heat it up with the torch too much.

It's called a gland nut, Keith found out all about those, lol. it's a special fitting that allows the sender to seal up peoperly

 

Yes they come out

[Dodgeb4ya]

Do not remove the gland nut with the sender bulb stuck in it.

If the sender bulb will not easily pull out of the gland nut remove the small soft plug above the sender and wedge the sender bulb out with a wide screw driver.