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Posted

If you plan on retaining the original engine,I am GUESSING it would be one of the 2 speed automatics from the 50's Mopars. IF you can find one,it should be dirt cheap because there seems to be close to zero demand for them.
 

BTW,I plan on using the original 2 speed auto out of the 56 DeSoto that is providing the 330 hemi for my 33 Plymouth coupe. It will just be a driver,not a race car,so I see no reason why it won't work fine for my purposes,and I already have it.

 

Sure would love to find an adaptor to bolt a 4 speed hydro trans to it,though. I already have a B&M Hydro valve body submerged in a can full of ATF.

Posted

Best and low cost are contradictory terms here.

 

Wilcap makes an adapter that will let you put various GM automatics behind the 218/230.  It is not cheap and you still need to source the transmission as well as a driveshaft and then sort out how to shift it. 

 

As for the 2 speed auto mentioned above, finding one and finding someone to go through it to make sure it is functional is likely not to be cheap either.  Then you still have the driveshaft and shifter to sort. 

 

As for low cost firewall mounted brakes, junkyard.  Get your tape measure out and start looking.

Posted
1 hour ago, Sniper said:

Best and low cost are contradictory terms here.

 

Wilcap makes an adapter that will let you put various GM automatics behind the 218/230.  It is not cheap and you still need to source the transmission as well as a driveshaft and then sort out how to shift it. 

 

As for the 2 speed auto mentioned above, finding one and finding someone to go through it to make sure it is functional is likely not to be cheap either.  Then you still have the driveshaft and shifter to sort. 

 

As for low cost firewall mounted brakes, junkyard.  Get your tape measure out and start looking.

The Powerflite is a fairly easy trans to DIY.  It was one the first ones I tried back in the day.  OTOH parts would be a major problem to locate and pricing could be a bigger problem.

If I weren't using a factory pedal package from a later Dodge PU for my clutch/brake, I'd probably just order one of the kits available .  Speedway, Jegs and others have them. Reworking factory underdash stuff just never seems to work well for me.  Maybe because I really don't like working under there.

  • Haha 1
Posted (edited)

I make the TorqueFlite adapter for the L6 but, as mentioned, when you have collected the requisite pile-o-parts to finish the job it will be a fairly expensive pile unless you have a garage full of left-overs.

Your best bet, IMHO, is to find a PowerFlite from the later 50's.

Edited by wayfarer
Posted

I agree on the Powerflite. Be sure it's a 1955 or earlier or you'll be dealing with the push buttons.

My Mother had a 55 V8 and it worked very nicely. I kind of liked the dash mounted shift lever that was so light and delicate instead of big and clunky. It had an air of refinement. 

Being two speed they were really simple.

The early automatics got an undeserved reputation for being "unfixable" largely because the mechanics were in over their heads.

Once the skill sets caught up with the technology the results got better.

 

On the brake pedals:

In stead of going to all the trouble of re-engineering your car for hanging pedals, why not try a remote reservoir?

It's a whole lot less work and has the same benefits.

I have worked on cars that were twins except for hanging pedals vs through the floor pedals. Yes, hanging pedals are easier to service and more likely to have the fluid checked but....and it's a big but....the task of moving them in a fashion that's not "Mickey Mouse" is a project I'd choose to avoid on an effort vs benefit basis. Besides how often do you plan on replacing the master cylinder? I'd guess the average car gets no more than one or two replacements in it's useful life, if that. A remote reservoir solves the fluid check problem and increases the volume of the reservoir. If you use a plastic one, you can see the level every time you open the hood without taking the lid off. As far as the driver/pedal interface, I see no difference having driven both in the same style car. I do prefer a hanging throttle pedal in most cases but that's not being considered here. I can tell you the Plymouth throttle is far and away better than the Ford of the same year. The Plymouth has a pivot bearing while the Ford depends on the rubber throttle holding the linkage in position. If the rubber gives out, you can't drive the car.

Just sayn'

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