got it running...

[chucky07]

tonight after rebuilding carb..my old 52 started right up..sounded very good to me...after a few seconds i noiticed oil pressure wasnt coming up on gauge..so i shut off..noticed oil leaking from housing where the filter is.. I installed new filter and tightened bolt good...any ideas why leaking from around the nut on top that tightens lid on?

thanks..

[Jim Shepard]

I experienced the same thing. Solved problem by making a gasket from flat rubber and puting between cartridge top and bolt.

[Young Ed]

How did the carb go? Way to go on getting it going.

[chucky07]

appreciate all you guys in this forumn..all the information i got is "invaluable"....it actually gave me confidence to get it running...

Got the oil leak stopped by puttin a rubber gasket that came with oil filter on top bolt....let her run for about 15 min..with radiator full...no leaks..sounds BEAUTIFUL.....after 17 years of sitting...

Tomorow i'll start on brakes...*pedal goes to floor*..I already bought a new master cylinder.(170 bux ).....

Oh..One more question for you pros....I tested the tranny kinda..(still trying to figure out shift pattern)..it's a fluid drive. .But anyways..felt like clutch was wore out...took a lot of gas to get it to move..tried every possible forward gear i could....I think there is no flywheel...correct? Could it just need some fluid added to the fluid drive?

thx again

Kevin ))))

[wallytoo]

Oh..One more question for you pros....I tested the tranny kinda..(still trying to figure out shift pattern)..it's a fluid drive. .But anyways..felt like clutch was wore out...took a lot of gas to get it to move..tried every possible forward gear i could....I think there is no flywheel...correct? Could it just need some fluid added to the fluid drive?

thx again

Kevin ))))

shift pattern should be up/up=R, up/down=1st, down/up=2nd, and down/down=3rd. the pattern is a sideways H on the column.

i assume there is a flywheel, as that's generally the means for the starter to turn the motor over (by engaging the ring gear on the flywheel). i used to "start" in second with dad's b-3-c, used it more or less like an automatic.

[Merle Coggins]

The fluid drive is a fluid coupler between the crankshaft and the clutch. It is sort of like a self contained torque convertor, but not exactly because there's no stator for torque reduction as there is in a torque convertor. If it's working properly you can put the trans in gear and let the clutch out while holding the brakes (assuming they work) and the truck won't move. Then if you release the brakes and feed some throttle, off you go.

Your problem may be a fluid level problem. I would recommend changing the fluid. Go to a local farm supply store and get 2 gallons of Universal Tractor Hydraulic fluid ISO 32 grade. Now remove the cover at the bottom of the bell housing and turn the engine over until the plug on the fluid drive is at the bottom. Pull the plug and drain the fluid. It will probably drain slow, so allow it to drain for an hour or better. Now remove the floor boards to gain access to the top of the bell housing. At around the 1 O'clock position you'll find a round cap that may be labeled "Oil Fill". Remove that cap and crank your engine over until you can see the drain hole through the hole in the bell housing, it is now the fill hole. Get youself a long nose funnel that will fit into the fill hole and begin adding oil slowly. Again it will take time to refill it. You'll add oil until it appears full, then wait for it to go down and repeat. Eventually it won't take anymore oil. It should take between 1 1/2 and 2 gallons. Now you have to get the plug back in without dropping it. A magnetic socket or a piece of paper around the head of the plug to make it fit tightly in the socket will help.

If your fluid drive coupling is low on oil, it may have a bad seal. But once you get the lower bell housing cover off, you'll be able to see the clutch and such. Look for evidence of oil leaking between the F/D housing and the "flywheel" where the clutch bolts up to.

And you asked about the shift pattern... Which transmission do you have? Column shift 3 speed, floor shift 3 speed, or floor shift 4 speed?

Merle

[wallytoo]

And you asked about the shift pattern... Which transmission do you have? Column shift 3 speed, floor shift 3 speed, or floor shift 4 speed?

Merle

good point, merle i was drawing from my experience with dad's truck, which had the 3 on the tree.

wally

[chucky07]

the shifter is on the column.....I tried to shift like my 66 dodge..its 3 on the tree..but it diditn seem to be the same..Also, now that i read these posts..maybe because i was feathering the clutch is why I was having problems? I didnt know i could let the clutch out then press gas to go...sounds very strange..but cool hahahha...I'll try that and change the fluid as soon as i find the proper type you spoke of...

thx again.

[Young Ed]

chuck its the same pattern but a different method of shifting. You pull towards for 1 and R but you don't push away for 2 and 3. They are just straight up and straight down. The shifter is spring loaded to stay at the back of the H.

[greg g]

If you could post a picture of the transmission, that might clear up which transmission you have, the standard three speed behind the fluid drive or the less common semi automatic M-6, know as the truck o matic. This transmission was used by Chrysler and given a myriad of names, tip toe, fluid torque drive, gyromatic etc. If it one of these, the shifting pattern is different fromt he three speeds "H" pattern. This transmission is a 4 speed but uses only 2 gears depending on which range is selected. Low range is good for only about 20 mph, and high range, shifts from low to drive at about 18 mph.

The Imperial club website has a very compreshinsive section of the M-6 in their repai section. A look there may help you ID which box is behind your fluid drive.

For a simple primer on Fluid drive, think of it as two fans facing each other, one bolted to the crank shft, and the other attached to the transmission.

the one bolted to the crank has the ring gear for starter engagement, and holds the clutch. the other fan would represent the friction disc atttached to the trans.

Now if you start the engine, the fan will turn, the fluid (in this case air) will begin to turn the other fan, thus powering the transmission. You can see how the brakes can overpower the fluid and halt the transfer of power by creating more friction that the fluid can over come. The clutch is there basically just to ease the selection of reverse or drive options. My dad had a 49 Dodge with FD and a three speed. He drove it just like you would a standard three speed using all the gears for regular driving. When he got to the city with its slower speeds and stop and go, he would put it in second gear and drive it like an automatic just using the brake and gas pedal. I learned to drive on that car, and it made learning to use a clutch very easy.

One word of caution, because there is no mechanical connection between the engine and transmission, the vehicle has no compression braking when the engine is off. So make sure your parking brake is up to task or make sure you chock the tires if the truck isn't parked on level ground. Let us know what you find out about the transmission, as the shift pattern is different for the M-6 and may be the reason it feels different from what you remember the 3 speed should be. I have seen it described before and I think it is toward you and up for reverse, toward the dash and up for low range, and toward the dash and down for hi range, neutral is in the center of the H as normal.

The semi automatic has some wiring that goes up to the carb area, and has a couple round canisters attached to it, relays and governors and such. Basically the governor signals the trans when speed is high enough for the shift to hig gear, and the wiring inturupts the igntion circuit so the engine relaxes when yo let of the gas and allows the gears to be shifted with no load.

The boxes were referred to as clunk o matics and you took off from stop achieved 14 to 18 mph, relased the gas, waited for the audible clunk as the trans shifts, then step ont he gas again. It is a simple and reliable system, and failry easy to get your head around after a couple reading of how they work.

[wallytoo]

One word of caution, because there is no mechanical connection between the engine and transmission, the vehicle has no compression braking when the engine is off. So make sure your parking brake is up to task or make sure you chock the tires if the truck isn't parked on level ground.

in the context in which you answered, you are correct. the fluid-drivetrain will not provide sufficient "hold" to park the truck on any incline without the aid of a parking brake/chocks. however, in the real sense, the vehicle does have some compression braking with the engine off. it is possible to roll-start a fluid drive equipped vehicle, and that can only happen if the motor is being turned over by the drivetrain. if the motor is turning over, there is some compression braking. perhaps it's a case of static vs. rolling braking?

wally