Project Elise - 50 B2B

[Plymouthy Adams]

Los....sorry I read that wrong I guess....I thought you had said yours was timed with #1 at 1 o'clock.....whereas that would have been 180 out....I see you saying 1 tower off....my bad...!

[Los_Control]

Just now, Plymouthy Adams said:

Los....sorry I read that wrong I guess....I thought you had said yours was timed with #1 at 1 o'clock.....whereas that would have been 180 out....I see you saying 1 tower off....my bad...!

You are correct ... My only suggestion is setting the oil pump timing correct, to take the guess work out of tuning everything else.

 

I am only saying that we just move the plug wires on the cap and it works.

How does that effect the Dwell, timing, Vacuum advance, points setting. While it works.

Just something  I would correct and telling @wagoneer exactly what I would do. Fix it.

 

 

 

 

[wagoneer]

Reads to me more as convention rather than rule, but regardless I need to check the oil pump and pressure relief valve for rust and replace the springs, and for good hygiene put it at 7 o’clock.

 

ive gone through every external part of the engine , and touching the inside top, I have a new master cylinder on its way , and the timing will be set properly and easily with the head off.

 

 

 

for parts that are relatively internal or just bare metal generally, what do people regarding rust proofing once you get rid of the surface rust … say inside the intake manifold, or on the carb after a good but plating corrosive soaking?

 

anybody done any home zinc plating (seen some good kits online)?

[Los_Control]

17 hours ago, wagoneer said:

Reads to me more as convention rather than rule, but regardless I need to check the oil pump and pressure relief valve for rust and replace the springs, and for good hygiene put it at 7 o’clock.

You are correct and you will sleep better at night with it set correctly.

I had another experience with Uncle Floyd's 1967 international truck. New long block 345 from Napa. Floyd drove it for years til he passed away.

Then Uncle Grumpy got the truck, Grumpy asked me if I could do a tune up on it ... did not run right.

I ripped all the parts out of it including the wires and threw them in a pile. Put it back together and would not run.

That one was 2 or 3 teeth off. I have other examples over the years. They run, but they never run right.

 

I swear to God, our old flatheads talk to us and say "just stick that timing anywhere ... and will make it work"

I would never try this on any other engine, mopar flatheads just do not care.

 

for parts that are relatively internal or just bare metal generally, what do people regarding rust proofing once you get rid of the surface rust …

 

Spray oil on them. PBlaster would be fine.

Years ago a buddy of mine worked at a wrecking yard. They would get a wrecked car in and he would start the engine to confirm it was good.

Then he would pour ATF down the carburetor while it was running until it died.

That just coated the internals with oil while it sat on a shelf ready for sale.

So any type of oil is good ... just something to coat the metal.

 

As far as the water jackets on the engine head or block ... I have been using White vinegar with 4% acidity.

Thats actually pretty strong ... I get it at the local grocery store for $1.99 a gallon. I pick up 6 or 8 gallons.

Not very good for cooking, but very good for cleaning. May not work for you at this time.

 

I get the engine running, then fill the coolant with the vinegar. Run it through a few heat cycles let it sit for a few weeks then repeat the process... Then change the coolant and refil with fresh vinegar.

A very mild acid .... It will not remove rust or scale over night. But if you have time it will slowly clean your block, while not causing damage to your radiator or heator core ... If they start to leak is only because they were ready to leak anyways.

[wagoneer]

Tonight I punched out the bottom two large welch plugs, and flushed out the block! Some silt but very little at the bottom, just some gross coolant water. The old welch plugs look solid and steel,  pointing again to recent rebuild. Thanks @keithb7 for the great video on the topic. I also took out the petcock and cleaned it out.

 

I know so much more now that I've gone this far into the engine, and now reading the manual makes so much more sense!

Project Elise is my learning project to prepare my Chrysler, and it's the best $400 (cost before expenses of courses).. I've spent.

 

Tomorrow onto the oil pump and oil pressure relief valve!