Clutch R&R while in car

[Dan Heston]

I am hoping to remove and replace the clutch assembly in our 51 Coronet.  I am wondering if the lower bell housing will unbolt and is removable without jacking up the motor.  We have some grinding when shifting between gears and I think may have not put the clutch back together correctly.  The tranny was not opened up and everything worked smoothly before we overhauled the motor and put it all back in the car.

 

I just don't want to have to take the motor out to access the clutch.

[Hamilton]

No need to pull the engine.  Remove the drive shaft, disconnect the various linkages and the speedometer cable, remove the four bolts securing the gearbox and pull it out.  What you refer to as the lower bell housing is, if it's anything like my '49 Plymouth, really just an inspection cover, easily removed by unscrewing a few bolts.  With the gearbox out of the way and the inspection cover removed, you can now access the pressure plate bolts.  Best to break one or two loose without actually removing them, rotate the engine (tugging on the flywheel should do the trick) to reveal the next couple of bolts, loosen these, then repeat until you've made your way all the way around.  Now make another rotation to remove the bolts you broke loose on the first go-round.  Carefully lower the pressure plate to access the clutch disc.  Done ... well, sort of done.  You still have to re-install.

 

edit: before removing the clutch, do some investigation into proper adjustment procedures.  Otherwise you might go through all the trouble to pull everything apart only to find you're facing the same issues after putting it all back together.  Lots of info here on clutch adjustment.

 

 

Edited January 22, 2021 by Hamilton
typo

[Dan Heston]

Hamilton, thank you for your reply.  I removed the tranny already so now I can start the lower housing removal.  I understand there is a correct way to install the clutch plate but that it will go back together wrong as well.  That may have happened which is why I think my gears are grinding. I don't believe my clutch is disengaging completely in order to shift in gears.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Was the clutch disc installed with the center raised damper springs towards the FD/engine?

If so the raised portion will be rubbing against the FD driven clutch plate causing the clutch to drag.

The raised part of the disc faces to the rear of the car ....always on the old MoPars.

[Sniper]

Also, pay close attention to the replacement parts.  At least one member here has gotten the wrong disc for the style pressure plate and it was hitting things installed.  So if your disc or pressure plate looks different than what you took out make sure you sort it out before you install it.

[Dodgeb4ya]

There are two 1/2" hex head bolts directly above the cross member that can be very tight to get at...especially if the rear mounts are sagged out.

But doable...just leave then loose in the cover when pulling it out and down.

[wagoneer]

Take a look at this MTSC all on the Clutch. It gives lots of good tips especially in getting it back together working well. 
  http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/mtsc/016.pdf

[desoto1939]

Also how are the upper and lower engine and transmission support insulators?  If they are old and hard and crushed then I would also replace these becsue the clutch and trans might be on an angle and causing an alignment issue also check the front engine motor it also might be old and needs to be replaced.  Just some other thoughts onthe issue.

 

Rich Hartung

[Dan Heston]

Thanks for the clutch disc placement info.  I'll verify that as soon as I am able to get the lower housing off.  You are right Dodgeb4ya, the bolts are too long to remove.  Going to have to jack up the motor a bit so they can clear the cross member.  We hope to have everything sorted out soon.

[Dodgeb4ya]

You only have to jack the rear of the engine up just enough to be able to unscrew those two tear bolts.

I use a 1/2" open end wrench to unscrew those two rear bolts.

Just unscrew them till undone and remove the cover with them still in the cover bolt holes.

They are about an 1-1/4" long bolts.

This is how I always deal with them.

  The other issue can be the lower two trans to bell housing long studs.

If the trans is removed there is no issue.

You have to unscrew those two lower studs from the bell housing cover by double nutting the studs.

Then unscrew them till loose.

Leave the studs loose in the trans.

Remove lower cover.