rear axel keyway question

[Ed McDermott]

I have a question on the rear axel keyway.

After great difficulty I got the rear drum off with a wheel puller and the key came off with the drum and firmly attached to the drum.

I replaced the brake shoes, brake cylinder, and  brake lines as planned.

I could not release the key from the drum, tried rust buster, penetrating oil and a few taps with a punch and hammer.  No luck.

Decided to test fit and put the drum back on but key would not easily  line up with keyway and drum would only go on a short bit.

 

When and how  does the key get installed?  Before the drum is put on or after.  Or does it make a difference?

Also how can you remove the key from the drum?  I seen a few videos which seem to indicate drilling.

And suggestions?  

Thanks.

Ed

[P15-D24]

Knock the key out of the drum with a drift punch and hammer. Drive it towards the outside of the drum.

Remount the drum, line up the keyway slot and install the axle nut snug but not torqued.. Then tap in the keyway in with a hammer till flush.

Then final torque the axle nut.

[Ed McDermott]

Thanks

I have tried tapping it out with a drift punch.  It does not budge.  I don't know if there is rust in the slot or the keyway has been worked over time.

Also, do you have an idea on the torque requirement?

[Los_Control]

Torque spec is a 3' cheater bar and 4 grunts. Or 160 + pounds.

Possibly some heat on the keyway to break the rust? ... it should just pop out in a perfect world.

 

[desoto1939]

I use a brass drift with a brass hammer to put the key back into the rear drum.  Squirt the key with some PB Blaster might have rust build up. Most of the times it just falls out of the slot when the drum comes off the axle.

 

Time has taken ahold of the key take your time to remove it from the drum.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

[Andydodge]

As P15/D24 said, knock the key out towards the outside of the drum, I would ensure the keyway on the axle and drum are both clean and without any burrs then use a new key, think its 5/16th, lengths of key material are commonly available at any good bearing or engineering shop...........andyd  

[Ed McDermott]

Thanks All

Pounding it out with a drift pin was not working so I tried a 3/8 socket extension bar and caught the outside edge with a upward tap and it raised a little and then was able to get under it and pry it out.  There was considerable rust/corrosion on the sides and bottom.  Dressed it all up and now it sides in and out easily but tight enough.

 

[RobertKB]

Glad it worked out and thanks for the update.