pflaming Posted October 24, 2020 Report Posted October 24, 2020 With the vehicle on a lift, optional, by draining the oil, removing the pan, and the rod insert, can I mic thee shaft, and if correct, can new inserts be added and repair in that manner? if so, the second question is this, is there a way to determine what caused the failure? Would checking the Bad rod nut torque numbers And comparing to the other five Rods be one possible way. would be very nice to be able to fix without removing the engine! Quote
pflaming Posted October 24, 2020 Author Report Posted October 24, 2020 I found some very enlightening posts so have information I need. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 24, 2020 Report Posted October 24, 2020 I doubt it will be a lasting fix just replacing the bearing shells with new sad to say.. Show us a clear picture of the rod bearing crank journal. The finish and condition, out of roundness of the crank journal are just a couple issues to consider. Plus where if any did the metal particles from the damaged bearing and crank journal go? Most of it through the oiling system with a bypass filter? Quote
Los_Control Posted October 24, 2020 Report Posted October 24, 2020 1 hour ago, pflaming said: would be very nice to be able to fix without removing the engine! First step is to grab a can of beer and drink it, Then you cut the empty can into strips and shim out the new bearing shell. Hopefully 1 shim between the rod and bearing will work. Be sure and add oil hole where needed. Talk about a hill billy fix. Met a guy in Vegas when was there working construction. He did that to his 1957 cheby truck, original 6 cyl and drove it from LA to Vegas and daily for work for over a year .... Last I heard he drove it back east and about Arkansas the rear end went out and had to replace it ... motor ran fine. Drove it to DC Quote
pflaming Posted October 24, 2020 Author Report Posted October 24, 2020 Dodgeb4ya. Got my assignment. I’m working on the Suburban, just researching how to fix the engine, advance research. Quote
Dave72dt Posted October 25, 2020 Report Posted October 25, 2020 With the bad journal down and the spark plug for that cylinder out, you can remove the rod cap, push the piston and rod up and probably get a micrometer in for measuring. Check the nearest main brg for wear also. That's where that rod gets it's oil supply. If the crank checks out OK (unlikely, sorry !), you can pull the head and remove piston and rod and have the rod refurbished. Don't be afraid to check the other rod bearings as well. Since that truck will get handed down to family eventually, repair it correctly so you don't pass a problem along with it. Quote
pflaming Posted October 26, 2020 Author Report Posted October 26, 2020 I have a solid spare engine. Our daughter and son-in-law are here this week. Tomorrow he and I will get that engine. He will prepare it for installation so then he knows what to do to maintain it, etc. will pull the freeze plugs and pressure steam clean the block, pull the water pump and steam the tube and check it, then repaint etc. I will install later. Suburban on the street, licensed etc first. Bad knee again, need shot, so slow going. Quote
sidevalvepete Posted October 26, 2020 Report Posted October 26, 2020 Paul. I empathise with you over the knee. Have had both hips replaced. First one in my late 40s, second one two years ago at 59. Knees are more painful and can be problematic after replacement surgery too. Hope it can get a bit better for you than you are at present. I'd still rather get to the end of my days worn out from trying everything though than doing little and succumbing to sedentary diseases 1 1 Quote
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