Clutch reinstall '55 C3 B8

[Havs]

I'm hoping to get some help on my clutch reinstall. My clutch was really froze up on my 1955 C3 B8, the clutch disc plate was rusted solid onto the flywheel. After finally breaking it loose, I've cleaned it up and am trying to reinstall to test it, to see if I can get some miles out of it before sending for rebuild. The issue I'm running into is with getting the throwout bearing back in place. The clutch release levers don't seem to give me enough clearance; if I have the throwout bearing set in place, it causes clearance issues w/ the yoke in trying to get the pressure plate and disc up and in from underneath (engine is still in vehicle, she's jacked up to give me room to work). In theory, if I bolt up the pressure plate, this should draw it forward and give me some room to get the bearing set in? Or what am I missing?

 

As you can see, I do not have the clutch alignment tool so I'm improvising. 

 

What have you more experienced Dodge guys done for workflow on an install or remedies for this? Thanks in advance!!

[JBNeal]

An old broom handle or plunger handle might work as an alignment dowel in a pinch, might need to be turned down a bit...

 

additional information - throwout bearing installation

[Dodgeb4ya]

I used to center the clutch disc to the PP using both hands and fingers centering the disc to the outer edge of the clutch pressure plate.

Tightening the PP just enough so I could still just move the disc to where it needed to be.

Once centered I tighten up the PP.

Worked everytime for me till I bought the pilot tools.

[squirebill]

It's been quite awhile since I did clutch work on my old Mopars and never remember having a problem getting the throwout bearing in. But yes, I'm pretty sure you have to completely bolt up the clutch assembly to the flywheel first.  Years ago I had access to a lathe where I worked and made up an alignment tool out of a piece of round steel tubing.  If I can find it in my rat's nest of a garage I will measure it up and send the dimensions.  Back then the plastic alignment tools were hard to come by and people would use a sawed off front shaft from a junked transmission as an alignment tool.  As stated above, a wood rod, dowel, broom handle could be whittled down to fit through the clutch disc and tapered on the end to pick up the I.D. of the pilot bushing.  Nowadays the plastic alignment tools seem to be at most auto parts stores and are not that expensive.  Bottom line, I think the clutch assembly has to be completely bolted up.  Regards.

[Merle Coggins]

I’ve always eyeballed the clutch disc alignment similarly to how Dodgeb4ya mentioned. Then when installing the trans, when you get to that last inch or so and it gets bit tight due to slight misalignment, depress the clutch pedal to release the clutch PP and the clutch disc will self align and the trans will slip right in. 

 

As for your throw out bearing fitment... Yes, you need to fully bolt down the clutch assembly. This will move the clutch levers in slightly and give you the room you need. Then slip the throw out bearing in place before installing the trans. 

[Dodgeb4ya]

Clutch jobs were one of my favorite jobs...had these 30 or more pilots and others to do the jobs..

Pilots speed the job up.

[DJ194950]

There must be that some co. out there still makes a plastic alignment tool for these setups.

 

When I had Tennessee Clutch redo my clutch setup they  sent my clutch parts back rebuilt along with a plastic alignment tool with the parts and the whole job cost was quite reasonable.

 

If someone here can offer up the measurements -input shaft size, add your tooth count for the disc. and throw out bearing shaft area size plus all lengths I would think you could do some web search and locate one.  Maybe just a call to Tennessee Clutch and Brake (full name) and purchase?

 

DJ

[Dodgeb4ya]

"Dorman" makes those alignment tools...about four bucks each.

[Havs]

Thanks for the replies so far! I have a spare tranny 3spd floor shifter, but I really don't want to tear into it for the shaft. I will make a point of finding a spare shaft or getting the plastic one for next time's tear down.

 

I've got the clutch linkage completely disconnected, so I will try to bolt up the pressure plate tomorrow AM and see if I can slip in that throwout bearing back in. I will also unbolt the yoke from the housing to see if that gives me a little extra wiggle room. If this works, I should be able to do a shake down test drive around the neighborhood. Like my father-in-law said, see what breaks, leaks or falls off, then limp her back in!

[Havs]

3 hours ago, Merle Coggins said:

I’ve always eyeballed the clutch disc alignment similarly to how Dodgeb4ya mentioned. Then when installing the trans, when you get to that last inch or so and it gets bit tight due to slight misalignment, depress the clutch pedal to release the clutch PP and the clutch disc will self align and the trans will slip right in. 

 

As for your throw out bearing fitment... Yes, you need to fully bolt down the clutch assembly. This will move the clutch levers in slightly and give you the room you need. Then slip the throw out bearing in place before installing the trans. 

Ahh, just catching up on these. Yes this might be the key! I'm going to reconnect that clutch linkage and see if depressing the pedal moves those levers slightly , then the throwout should slip right in! Thanks guys!

[Havs]

Got her back together today. I found it did help to unbolt the yoke, allowing me to slip yoke to the left and out of way, then get throwout bearing back in place. It was a pain to hook up the spring on top of the bearing and keep it from falling off! But it articulates and seems to engage those clutch levers. Definitely getting the alignment tool for next time I do this.

 

Now tomorrow, try to get her running in this cold and test on her...