Motor switch from 201 to 230

[37plymouth-hill]

Hi all

Im installing a 1949 Dodge 230ci motor in my 1937 Plymouth coupe. I noticed the crank and flywheel extends away from the block approximately 1/4” more than with the original 201. I should mention I intended to use the bell housing and original clutch. The problem is the flywheel Is essentially pushed back into the bell housing and ultimately crowds the throw-out bearing tight against the transmission. There isn’t any play and it’s very difficult to install the clutch fork. Suggestions?

[Adam H P15 D30]

The late Don C. documented this issue when he switched to an engine that originally had a fluid coupling but his problem was only starter engagement, you will also have this issue in addition to your T/O bearing issue...  In your case I would make a 1/4 inch spacer between your engine and bell housing.

[37plymouth-hill]

Thank you so much. I believe this would then affect the rear motor mounts, clutch linkage etc...hmm

[Young Ed]

Are you using a 201 flywheel or 230?

[greg g]

The crank flange is thicker on the 230 and there is also a different length input shaft as the 230 bell housing is deeper.

[Adam H P15 D30]

1 hour ago, 37plymouth-hill said:

Thank you so much. I believe this would then affect the rear motor mounts, clutch linkage etc...hmm

I would leave the bell housing where it is and move the engine forward 1/4 inch

[37plymouth-hill]

I was attempting on using the flywheel from the 201. The starter just barely engages, but the clutch assembly  is encroaching on the back of the bell housing within dangerous tolerances. I can see now the logical solution is to put a spacer in between the block and the bell housing (4.5 mm) if I keep the 201 flywheel, bell housing and transmission. Moving the motor forward 4.5 mm should be possible without too much trouble. Are there machine shops that could make a spacer for me the would be very precise? From the reading I’ve done, the bellhousing to the block connection is very important. Thanks everyone for pitching in with your help.

[Young Ed]

43 minutes ago, 37plymouth-hill said:

I was attempting on using the flywheel from the 201. The starter just barely engages, but the clutch assembly  is encroaching on the back of the bell housing within dangerous tolerances. I can see now the logical solution is to put a spacer in between the block and the bell housing (4.5 mm) if I keep the 201 flywheel, bell housing and transmission. Moving the motor forward 4.5 mm should be possible without too much trouble. Are there machine shops that could make a spacer for me the would be very precise? From the reading I’ve done, the bellhousing to the block connection is very important. Thanks everyone for pitching in with your help.

I believe the most logical solution is to get a 230 flywheel which compensates for the crank diff. If you search way way back in the forum you should see some posts from blue skies about it. 

[37plymouth-hill]

Thank you, much appreciated 

[Adam H P15 D30]

If you don't have any luck finding a 230 flywheel (non FD) you can make a spacer at home with a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate, a band saw or jig saw, drill and a sharpie.  Will probably need longer dowel pins but it doesn't have to be machine shop precise, it's a spacer not an adapter.

 

Is there a tooth count difference between the 2 ring gears?  Not sure....

[Young Ed]

Pre 57 should all be the same tooth count. I believe blue skies got his from vintage power wagons. Their site shows them at $75 probably close to 100 after shipping

[Adam H P15 D30]

For that price, I would buy the flywheel too if available.

[37plymouth-hill]

Thank you

im making spacers out of a 3/16” 1-1/2” metal bar I had for knife making. The thicknesses are within .002 of each other.

i can make one out of aluminum also. The dowels seem adequate in length

[37plymouth-hill]

I’m looking into a flywheel also.

[Adam H P15 D30]

Just a thought, is the pilot bushing depth different also?  Does it matter?

[37plymouth-hill]

Adam, the pilot bushing and depth appear to be identical, but I will check this again.

[NickPickToo]

I have an outside-the-box suggestion.  Hear it out as you can always just say no.  Near me is a company called Liberty Gear.  They rebuilt the inside of my T3.  They have a sweat T5 available for hotrodders and an engineering team that can make it fit .  Now I'm not saying you should upgrade to a T5, I can tell you're a more discerning advocate for more original restorations.  I'm suggesting you upgrade me to a T5.   I'm just a wide eyed teen looking for sponsors because my dad wont pay for the upgrade.  I'll arrange the work and set up the billing so you can process it easily.  In exchange, I'll send you my bell housing, flywheel and recently rebuilt transmission.  It's in a '47, but its on a '56 230 so it should fit your engine like a glove.  Now who else is going to offer you such a complete and ready to fit solution?

 

[37plymouth-hill]

I’m good thanks