water pump

[captden29]

checked the water level yesterday in the rad. low. put a lot of water in, and I see water dripping under the engine. further looking and I see water coming from behind the water pump. not sure how water is leaking out there, but I will take it all apart to see better. maybe the gasket? pump is about 4 or 5 years old. I still have the original and I wonder if that can be rebuilt? I AM TOLD THE NEWER PUMPS PUT OUT MORE VOLUME, BUT WHAT IS THE BEST ONE TO BUY? I THINK I WILL REPLACE THE ONE IN THERE AS LONG AS I AM DOING THE WORK. the one in there was from rock auto, a pro something. are any pumps made in the USA? I would want whichever pump puts out the best volume. I will pull the water tube and flush in there as well. that was replaced about ten years ago. any suggestions on the best replacement pump will be appreciated.   thanks  capt den

[plymouthcranbrook]

I installed a NAPA pump about 15 years ago.on my 52 and have been very satisfied with it

[Sniper]

I looked into the water pump issue for my 218, the old style had two curved blades with no backing plate, possible cavitation issues.

 

Bought a new pump from RA, as well as a more modern pump thinking to swap impellers for improved flow.  Much to my surprise the new pump for the 218 was a nice unit with a6 bladed impeller and a backing plate to prevent cavitation all as one cast piece.  I haven't put it in yet.  Whatever pump is on now, looks real similar to the new 218 pump from the outside anyway, doesn't seem to flow at idle.  I am used to seeing water flow in the radiator once the thermostat opens up. 

[captden29]

I could try NAPA. they are local, so easy return for the core. the newer pump I have on now does have a little more water flow than my original pump. the original has no flow at idle. are any pumps rated for flow? or do you just get what you get. I have not pulled the one on there yet, but I will check it for a 6 blade impeller.   thanks   capt den

[Sniper]

Plans are to go with a serpentine belt setup at some point, probably when I go AC, and I'll run a smaller water pump pulley to get a bit more flow, both air and water at idle.

[captden29]

which flatheads have a smaller pulley? seems the faster speed may hurt the bearings. does sound like it will produce more flow at idle, even at speed. I just wonder if there is any one pump better than another. any made in the USA?   capt den 

[Sniper]

Well, I don't know about the V belt pulleys, I was talking about running a smaller serpentine pulley when I convert.  Sorry for not being clearer on that.  But if anyone does know of a V belt pulley that can work I'd be interested.

[Los_Control]

I have opinions, but no facts. 

I am sure my engine was parked for the looong sleep, because of a overheating issue. Playing detective and broken bolts, and the fact it had no water circulation when I started it up.

I came to circulation issue.

 

I ran a flat bar in the water distribution tube cleaning out the crap ... yes pulling the tube and replacing is more correct., I pulled the soft plugs and cleaned out the block.

I then filled it with vinegar and ran it for a hour or 2 at idle, get it hot and let it sit for a few weeks, I later drained and repeated the whole process.

 

I think my approach may sound like overkill, Or a kid may just yank out the tube and replace along with the soft plugs and flushing the block and get it did in one day.

 

End result, I can let it idle for 2 hours in the driveway, with no T-stat installed, it runs at 160 temp ... about 1.5 hours in to idle, it will start to creep up to 190, 200 temp.

A quick fast idle and it drops right back to 160 ... I really think installing A 180 T-stat in it will fix this.

 

And this is with a original water pump with a zirk fitting to install grease ... I have a brand new Gates from Rock Auto on the shelf, As long as the original is working I will leave it alone.

[Sniper]

Good suggestions Los, when I yank my engine to clean it up and inspect it you can bet that tube will be replaced the the block thoroughly cleaned even if everything else is perfect.  Just waiting till the 100+ degree days go away.

[Los_Control]

You see my point @Sniper What I hear These engines run pretty cool.

But if the path is blocked off, not so cool.

My way of clearing the tube is as hillbilly as you can get.

Same time I am hoping to run this engine, see what other issues pop up, get a little history with it and pull the engine and do whats needed. Get the big jobs done and just tackle the motor later.

 

Just amazing how hard the scale is inside the tube or blocks.

I used a 3/4"x1/4"x4' bar,  and then a decent hammer to drive it in, I then had to drill a hole in the end of the bar and  use a slide hammer to pull it out. .... Just amazing how tight the scale grows in the blocks

 

Just think about it, I used a big hammer and broke through the scale ... I then had to create slide hammer to pull it back out, And then did the best I could to clean the sides.

It actually works .... not ideal at all.

I think if a guy did this, then pulled the distribution tube out, the tube would have room to collapse on itself and pull out.

Otherwise, the scale is so hard and stretches across, just no way for the tube to collapse in the middle while trying to remove and the tube is a bear to remove.

Just need to open it up and give it some room.

 

 

[Sniper]

Sounds reasonable to me, I've used the vinegar trick myself. 

[Rosco]

I had my original water pump rebuilt two years ago and the rebuilder put a sealed bearing in it, so no more need for grease.  It’s been working fine ever since and whenever possible,  I’ll rebuild parts instead of using new - that way I know whatever I remove, will go back on with no problems.

[Los_Control]

Not something the average person cares about.

When your water pump starts leaking, and you walk out and pump some grease in it and it stops leaking .... you are now a master mechanic.

Just saying.

[rallyace]

My water pump was leaking from behind the pump on my 51 P-23 and it was a bad gasket. It took longer to gain access to the pump so I could remove it than to replace the gasket. I pulled the radiator to make things easier. 90 minutes start to finish.

 

[captden29]

rally, my first thought was the gasket. usually never that simple, but one can hope. does vinegar in the engine for 2 weeks really clean a lot out? my engine has heat issues and I have tried so much and it is improved, but 95 degree days are out of the question. I can drive it but not in city traffic, and anywhere else when I shut it down, it has to be restarted within about ten minutes or left to cool for about an hour. I moved the fuel line and it has a heat shield. just too much heat in the block. recored rad and I flushed all I could through the core plugs. I do want to drop and clean the pan, just nervous about that job. I will put a new water pump on when I take it all apart just because I am doing the labor. I will pull the rad to make it easier.if I flush through the water tube and do the vinegar thing I will need to pull the core plugs and flush there. I use the dorman plugs that go on with a socket. wish me luck. I still would love to know if any pump is better than another as far as volume pumped is concerned. so many other parts are rated, such as generators, coils, etc., but not water pumps. I still have the original with the grease fitting, but I know the newer pumps are better than that one.besides, who can rebuild it properly?  thanks in advance for the replies. this is a 265 in a 54 Windsor.all original with 78,000 miles.   capt den