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Posted (edited)

Hidden inside the glovebox of my ‘38 Ply, a modern USB charger. This particular USB charger required 12 volts to work. My electrical system is still the stock 6V system. I wanted to try installing a 6v DC to 12v DC 10A converter anyway, so I went with it. This USB charger has a built in digital volt meter. I wanted the modern convenience, but didn’t want it visible in the car. The cell phone should be out of sight in the glove box anyway. So it seemed appropriate. 
 

There was plenty of room behind the RH wall of the glovebox for the depth needed to mount the USB charger. I also installed the converter up in there. 
 

This charger puts out 2.1A to charge a phone. I tapped into the power wire to the fuel gauge as it is key-switched off the ignition. There are only 2 items off the ignition switch. The coil and the fuel gauge. Everything else is hot to the battery via the ammeter. 
 

I have heard of instances where too many electrical devices hooked up to the key’d ignition switch can cause problems with feeding the coil. Then leading to ignition system problems. My car seems to run fine as it is now. Does anyone have examples of too many amps pulled off the ignition system where it caused a problem? Perhaps a stereo would overdue it? Likely.  
 

I’m pondering an alternative wiring scheme, for those inclined to hook up yet more devices. Devices that are active only when the key is turned on:

 

Possibly a 6V relay system. Ignition switch turned on activates the  relay. Then power could be pulled thru the ammeter, thru the relay, to a small fuse block, distributed to each device. ???

 

One tip, any metal in the car is grounded back to the 6V battery. Do not allow the exposed end of the USB charger cord, when plugged in, to touch any metal part of the car. You will likely see a quick flash followed by a Poof! I saw a friend do this by accident. No-workee any more. 

 

 

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Edited by keithb7
  • Like 1
Posted

Lol. Good eye. Yes. The car does have a built in cup holder. Only usable when parked. It was pre-war time, so certainly appropriate. The engineers needed a little more time to perfect it.  
 

 

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  • Like 3
Posted

Keith,

 

Nice work. I'm planning a similar project for my '39 Plymouth. I like that USB charger. Where did you source it from?

 

Pete

 

Posted (edited)

these are all over the internet and the digitial readout is trick but not necessay....I just built a console for my current build and I went to the wrecking yard and slipped out some from a couple Dodge Caravans....I got the ones marked with cover and icons showing switched and unstitched power and wired them as such...if you wish an unswitched unit the led will drain constant power.  

 

this is for reference, buy what and where you wish....

 

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1311.R2.TR11.TRC2.A0.H0.TRS1&_nkw=usb+charger+car+socket&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=usb+charger+car

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
Posted (edited)

@Pete it came from E-bay. Likely Asia as Plymouthy alluded to. Most of these USB plugs have some kind of a trick light that is lit up when it's active. Therefore pulling power all the time. This was why I wired it up to switched power at the ignition. I wondered if the digital voltage gauge might show a drop if the 6V battery was losing power? Thinking, it might serve a dual purpose, offering a clue to system voltage health? I am not sure how the 6V-12V converter functions. It's some type of solid state sealed device. It may continue to put out 12V even as the car's 6V system voltage drops. I saw a sticker on the back stating that it'll accept down to 5V. Likely meaning it will deliver and record consistent 12V even with a 5V input.

 

The funny part is cell phone chargers put out 5V. However try finding one that will run directly off a 6V system. I have not seen any. The usb plug steps down to 5V from 12V. So in reality what I have done here is take a 6V system, step it up to 12V, to run a usb charger. Then the usb charger steps the 12V down to 5V to charge a phone.

Edited by keithb7
Posted

Keith, that is an impressive spin-knob on your steering wheel. Back in my youth ('50's), those were pretty common but your style is a first for me. Some I recall had a picture of a bathing beauty and one of my friends had a '48 Chevrolet with the bow tie on it. Yours is pretty cool.

John R

Posted
48 minutes ago, John Reddie said:

Keith, that is an impressive spin-knob on your steering wheel. Back in my youth ('50's), those were pretty common but your style is a first for me. Some I recall had a picture of a bathing beauty and one of my friends had a '48 Chevrolet with the bow tie on it. Yours is pretty cool.

John R

 

I do get a lot of comments on the suicide knob. It seems nobody has seen one like it before. I've had more than few people ask me where I got it. I like that it is recessed and set lower down below the steering wheel ring. I don't hit it by accident. I do use it a lot and it is comfortable. I figure it must date back to the late 30's? Maybe the dealer installed it when the car was first sold? I'd love to have the original sales paperwork.

 

I have a story ready for the Mounties. It's original and stock for the car. Who can prove me otherwise, right? The car has no seat belts or turn signals either.  Some mounties aren't even sure if aa-oo--gah horns are legal. Pretty sure if I'm not driving like an idiot, and and pleasant, they'll smile and let me carry on my way.

Posted

My 53 dodge has a separate switch for the defrost fan ... with the heater disconnected no real need for power ...I used it as a keyed power supply running to a relay to power a pair of Fog Lights that I use as day time running lights ... I also like the fact that it gives the generator something to do driving down the road   

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