'37 Dodge Fargo restoration

[Lukey Moonshine@]

Hello,

I recently purchased a 1937 Dodge Fargo two and a half ton flatbed truck, I'm hoping to turn it over tomorrow. It's not been started for a while (10 years I think) so i was planing to check the valve clearances, drain the oil and replace with 20w 50 take out the spark plugs and put oil down the holes, replace the petrol in the carby and fuel tank turn it over a few times with the distributor disconnected, leave it for a bit then try to start it? I'm led to believe the engine is a replacement being stamped with an number starting p28 (which means a 230ci 1956 Plymouth I believe), I have the service manual for the  '37 Dodge but not the '56 so I'm interested to know what the major changes are apart from the increase in volume and HP. The Truck was apparently restored 30 odd years ago and has been sitting in a shed ever since (it looks in pretty good shape for such an old vehicle so I feel this is true)

 

Sooo a few questions

1.  Have I missed anything with regard to starting up an old engine?
2.  Can you check the valve clearances without taking of the fuel and exhaust manifolds?
3.  Will i need the Plymouth service manual?
4.  How do i find the exact model of truck (i know this might be hard as i think i read somewhere that the early ones to come to Australia were a bit of whatever was sitting round the Canadian factory) I think i read somewhere that the chassis/vin number is on the right hand side of the chassis rail under the front fender, I'll take a look tomorrow.
5.  How do i find out what the transmission is? (is it stamped on it somewhere?)

 

Thanks for any and all advice

 

 

[Lukey Moonshine@]

Sorry about the stupid questions, have done some research and answered a few of them myself.

Sooo, you can obviously check the valve clearances without removing the intake and or exhaust manifolds as they should be set hot, I'm going to check them cold and aim for I/E of 10/13 thou to get her started and then dial it in once the engine is hot (8/10 i believe), does that sound about right? It didn't have a battery and I'm having trouble finding a 6v starter battery so it looks like I'll need to wait until Tuesday (Monday is one of our queens many Birthdays, why we don't send her packing and become a republic is beyond me)

[squirebill]

You could use a 12 volt battery to jump start the truck.  Make sure all lights and accessories are off.  The starter can handle it.  As a younger person driving a 1950 Plymouth in the late 1960s I often had to get jump started from my friends more modern 12 volt battery.  Starter spins up fast on the 12 volts.

[JBNeal]

Off the top of my head, ordering engine parts should be done for the year of the engine because the head gasket, rear main seal, and timing cover seal changed over the years.  As far as I know, car and truck flathead engine internals were the same for the same model years, so if ya have a '56 Plymouth 230, you could order engine parts for a '56 Dodge 1-ton with a 230...

 

additional information - Flathead Valve Adjustments 

[Los_Control]

Mechanic advice coming from a carpenter hehehe take it for what is worth 

 

I wonder why you are going to adjust the valves to get it started? I would not bother myself .... assuming the engine was running before, I see no reason to change now.

I love your truck,

I think it is possible you may get some corrosion and build up from sitting, that would effect your valve adjustment ... start it, run it through a few heat cycles the valves will start seating better and then adjust them.

On a fresh rebuilt engine, you would need to adjust them before starting. Not a used running engine.

 

Also have you done a compression check yet? Is common for flatheads to have sticky valves from sitting, they just stay open and spring does not pull them closed. This is not a real bad issue, you certainly would not be able to adjust that valve.

is also common for rings to stick ... I suggest the compression check before you start it ... write down the numbers .... you may be disappointed on a few. Then when you start it you can run it through a few heat cycles and check compression again. and monitor the progress as the compression comes back.

Everything you plan to do sounds perfect, I suggest the compression check and forget the valve adjustment until after you have it running.

 

[Lukey Moonshine@]

Sooo, I got it to fire today, did away with the fuel lines because they were a bit (a lot) rusty so I went with the old tip some peddy (petrol) down the hole (after cleaning and filling the carburettor bowl). I've got a video of it turning over but you'll have to wait until I can get the vid off of a friends phone before I can post it firing. I went to check the compression but the kit I've got doesn't have the right thread for those spark plugs they were hard to find replacements also but I eventually found some that I have on order. I've taken out the fuel tank the fuel pump and the fuel line for replacement or overhaul. The points were corroded and the distributor Leeds were in poor shape so I'm going to replace some of the wiring too next time I get a chance to work on it. I took some photos of the gearbox, can anyone give me more information as to what it might be? Forget to track down the vin numbers, next time hopefully Friday.... I think the writing on the gearbox says c-3566 something though it's hard to read

Edited June 9, 2020 by Lukey Moonshine@
adding photos

[Lukey Moonshine@]

I also got the fuel tank out, it clunks, i believe the baffle is loose but I'm not sure, apparently their is a local guy who is an expert in folding steel so I'm going to see if he can open it up and fix it for me. The screws are pretty seized and their is another pair of holes in the top that will need filling in.

[Lukey Moonshine@]

I'm going to pick up the new fan belt and the distributor cable kit tomorrow and was thinking I'd get some diff and tranny fluid while I'm at it, I'm assuming the type of diff fluid doesn't matter too much as long as it's quality hypoid stinky oil, but the transmission being so old and probably non synchromesh  I'm wondering if it needs something special?... can anyone identify the gearbox? looks like the four speed from the RE, RF, FG3 FG4 and FGD4's (1937) from my service manual, which recommends "Mild Extreme Pressure Lubricant Summer-Temperature above 32deg F., S.A.E. no. 160 or S.A.E. no. 140" It has a serial number in the bottom right of the page 3X129, and has a P.T.O. cover that looks like the one in the above photo. can anyone recommend a modern equivalent?

[Lukey Moonshine@]

Gearbox pic from the manual

[Merle Coggins]

A non-synchro transmission isn't too picky. Pick up some good 85W-140, or similar, and go with it. 

[Lukey Moonshine@]

Ok, so finally got back to working on the old truck. Removed the head and in the process found out that I didn't have a thermostat installed!

[Lukey Moonshine@]

Got the head back from the shop, they needed to take 18 thou off to get it flat so I'm glad I did. Now back to cleaning the block.. pics to follow

[Lukey Moonshine@]

Soo having looked at the valve seats I'd like to at least lap them / deffinitly inspect them.

Unfortunatly this valve commpression tool doesn't fit with the manifold on so off it goes (photo for scale I'll stick a block of wood on the bock so as to not damage the mating surfaces when i get to that point).

All the manifold bolts i got to (12 of the 13) were very easy to get off, even the sneaky one in the centre, probably under torque.

Unfortunatly one bolt i was unable to get a socket on to as the exhaust manifold is in the way of the socket fitting over the nut, It didn't help that the steering column was in the way (i guess this would be easyer if it wasn't RHD) ...

Upon further inspection I realised If I could remove the exhaust manifold seperatly I could get acess to the said bold (3rd from the back). Upon further further inspection I noticed one of the four bolts holding the manifolds together was already missing. So against my better judgment and on a 33deg day (91 in f, hot for thease parts) I tryed removing the other 3 bolts and managind to break another one (i now realise that the 'missing' bolt is also broken off and still holding the manifolds together) and was totally ineffectual with regard to the other two.

So I'm left wondering how they got it on in the first place and how to remove. Did they put the intake manifold on first or did they just have vastly thinner walled sockets than I??? I'm thinking the solution might be to get a cheap socket and remove a third of it with an angle grinder so it fits over the nut and then little by little remove the nut, Or to purchace a set of crows foot wrenches (although I'm not entierly sure they will fit between the manifolds? Any suggestions greatly appreiciated...

 

Oh and a final photo of the valve springs (I'm really keen to get in and cleen this but figure it will be a lot easyer once I get the manifolds removed)

a

[Lukey Moonshine@]

Oh and my service manuel for the truck seems to be missing the torques for the manifold. It's got a section titled Fuel and Exhaust and then has a few pages on the Carby and nothing on the exhause. Anyhow when I get to putting It back on, how much torque do I apply. I think I read somwhere here 25ft lb but I'm unable to find it right now. Also in what sequence, I'd assume from centre out for tightening.

[Lukey Moonshine@]

Soo after perchacing a 9/16 socket from the local tip shop and giving it a once over with the angle grinder I managed to make a tool capable of removing the offending bolt. Unfortunatly it took me another hour or so to get one of the washers off as it was threded onto the stud and hard to get a grip as it was the one closest to the firewall. After taking all the manifold nuts (and the two bolts) off I ran into another problem, the manifold won't clear the steering column...  The last photo is all the nuts and bolts off of the manifold minus the one that rolled off somewhere (I'll thoroughly search for it tommorow)

[Lukey Moonshine@]

Any advice on moving the steering column out of the way? do I need a pitman puller? It all seems like a lot of work just to get at the valves?

[Lukey Moonshine@]

Thank you keithb7 for this YT vid, helped me visulise the exploded parts diagram In my manual. I need to flip it all (RHD) but feel OK about that atm, ask me again after a day of skinned knuckles and head scratching.

 

[Lukey Moonshine@]

Got around to dooing some more work on the ol' truck. Decided to hacksaw off the manifold studs to get the manifold off. Managed to remove what was left of them with a pair of vice grips. Removed the front starbord (Drivers side) wheel for easy access to the valves and have started the long job of making the mating surfaces shiny. Laplaplaplaplap.

[Lukey Moonshine@]

more pics