Bif Posted April 28, 2020 Report Posted April 28, 2020 Sorry if this is a repeat topic but looking for info on what people have done if any for a front suspension and disk break swap? Do they make a bolt on mustang II ? Any links or pjs would be much appreciated thanks in advanced. Quote
falconvan Posted April 28, 2020 Report Posted April 28, 2020 (edited) Fatman’s makes an MII but you have to cut the frame and weld on a frame stub. Truthfully these are good independent suspensions with several options for upgrade. Scarebird makes a disc brake kit or you can make your own with Explorer parts. You can swap in a Cavalier rack and pinion or I think there’s a G body steering box swap on here somewhere. Lots of different ways to upgrade these. Just search the technical section; you’ll find lots of great ideas. Edited April 28, 2020 by falconvan Quote
Adam H P15 D30 Posted April 28, 2020 Report Posted April 28, 2020 I've used Volare and Camaro clips and a couple of Mustang II front end kits in the past. I find the Mustang II good for lighter, narrower Pre war cars. My favorite is the Volare for ride, adjustability and handling but that steering box is big and sometimes in the way. A very close second is the Gen 2 Camaro with the front steer, works great on post war cars with a lot of room in front for the steering box. Add a Pontiac quick ratio box and it is a phenomenal front end. Any of these are a big improvement over the stock set up because of modern geometry and improvements over the last 80 years. Don't underestimate the amount of work one of these clips take, the TV shows are a joke! Also after you have measured 10 times, remeasure 10 more times and always make it look like it belongs and not slapped on and welded up. Quote
mrwrstory Posted April 29, 2020 Report Posted April 29, 2020 This is a Kugel Komponents IFS I patched in to the stock frame. I an very happy with the performance and ride after 35K miles. 4 1 Quote
48ply1stcar Posted April 29, 2020 Report Posted April 29, 2020 I have seen Dakota front frame cut at mid-engine and over-lapped on a 48 frame then re-installed the clip. 12 volt 318, with dakota rear end swap and new drive shaft. Factory air, automatic transmission. I saw this a couple of years ago and wish I had done this when I started. My car has been pretty much stock until this year. 2000 Cherokee rear end and Scarebird disc brakes installed this spring. Still 6 volt positive ground, 56 230 rebuilt engine. Quote
Adam H P15 D30 Posted April 29, 2020 Report Posted April 29, 2020 (edited) Some older pictures of my 47 with a Camaro clip. Completely gets the steering box out of the way and only minor radiator support surgery to clear. Sorry for the goofy picture layout Edited April 29, 2020 by Adam H P15 D30 1 Quote
Bif Posted April 29, 2020 Author Report Posted April 29, 2020 1 hour ago, mrwrstory said: This is a Kugel Komponents IFS I patched in to the stock frame. I an very happy with the performance and ride after 35K miles. That looks awesome thank you Quote
Kahunah Posted May 1, 2020 Report Posted May 1, 2020 On my '41 P12 I used Rusty Hope's disc brake kit and the master cylinder kit from ECI. I also installed new shocks. I'm very happy with the results. All wearable parts are easily replaced with off the shelf items. Quote
dodgeguy Posted May 2, 2020 Report Posted May 2, 2020 Hi saw your picture on subframe. post. How did you handle the coil sprung pockets that sit outside the stock frame rail when you grafted in the Kugal cross member? Im getting ready to order a fat man stub for 47 but am sill considering alternatives. Thanks Len Quote
mrwrstory Posted May 3, 2020 Report Posted May 3, 2020 I split the frame thru the spring pockets back to the firewall, welded in a 1/4 plate that matched the width of the Kugel unit,....and welded the part of the frame I'd removed back on. 1 1 Quote
dodgeguy Posted May 3, 2020 Report Posted May 3, 2020 WOW Thanks exactly the picture I was looking for. Witch kugel unit did you use? width? was it a generic or specked for a particular make?. I tried to P M you didn't go through. Quote
dodgeguy Posted May 3, 2020 Report Posted May 3, 2020 Looks like you had to use a rear steer rack no room in front of cross member Quote
mrwrstory Posted May 4, 2020 Report Posted May 4, 2020 Dodeguy and any others who may be interested, I don't remember my motivation but, for some reason I wanted a rear steer rack and Kugel fit that requirement. They were local for me and their response to my Plymouth application was, "never done that one before, but we'd like to work with you". Their customer service is excellent and to this day they are very open to questions from amateurs like me. I purchased their basic entry level setup. The "given" on their setup is the distance between the vertical surface of the tower upright and the kingpin centerline. The distance between the uprights is determined by your particular application. It's just a 4" tube cut to length. I decided to reduce the track width by 1" per side because I was running wider front tires. I just did the math and Kugel built it. Unfortunately, I don't remember or have any record of the numbers. I am more than pleased with the result. I see you're in the mid-West. There is a similar unit I believe made by Heidts in Illinois which might be an option to reduce shipping costs. If you are unable to connect with me via PM on this site, I will provide an email or phone number if you need more info. 2 Quote
Sniper Posted May 4, 2020 Report Posted May 4, 2020 You probably wanted rear steer due to ackermann geometry issues with a front steer. Nice install work, wish I could weld worth a darn. Quote
MackTheFinger Posted May 4, 2020 Report Posted May 4, 2020 I've been thinking about sticking this under my '50 Coronet club coupe. ? Quote
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