Jump to content

Starting my B2C restoration.


Recommended Posts

12 hours ago, Merle Coggins said:

 

I would never do that... ?

(I was in a private lot) 

hP1140196.JPG.e88d913c0ff29c02545329a4181be33a.JPG

That looks about exactly what I figure I'd look like.  Except, you went and sprung for the fancy seat with a cushion. I figured mine would just be flipped over. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Minicooper, regarding that dual master cylinder, do you know if it would work with stock drum brakes? Also interested in more details like how you did the brake lights and which outlet runs front brakes.

 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, dcotant said:

Hey Minicooper, regarding that dual master cylinder, do you know if it would work with stock drum brakes? Also interested in more details like how you did the brake lights and which outlet runs front brakes.

 

Thanks

Can’t see why it wouldn’t, my rear brakes are original drums. Just the front are discs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@minicooper I just got my 1950 B2 and am looking to replace the master cylinder first for road safety. What are the modifications you had to make to make the part fit? Sorry for the newbie question - I'm cutting my teeth on a B2 of my own and I'd like to have a better-than-blind idea of what I'm getting into :)

IMG_9840.jpeg

IMG_9193.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Enlarged the 3 holes on the master cylinder to fit the original bolts. I believe that's all we had to do, other than adjust the push rod, I can't remember if it had to be shortened or not. Of course you'll need new brake lines so that you can split the front and rear. The fittings for the split and the brake light pressure switches (two, one for each brake line circuit) fit on the frame under the cab.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@minicooper thanks for looking at it. Quick question: the link you posted for the part looks like it is a single cylinder - is it single or a dual master cylinder?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Matfirstattempt said:

@minicooper thanks for looking at it. Quick question: the link you posted for the part looks like it is a single cylinder - is it single or a dual master cylinder?

No, it’s a dual reservoir. Brake lines are split, front brake line port is on the front, closest to the steering gear box, rear brake port is on the driver’s side.

 

The brake light pressure switches are on the frame, behind the pedals. I need to clean up the wiring a bit, could be neater!

 

A5435B1E-E465-439F-836D-7AD8F30CD931.jpeg

Edited by minicooper
Spelling
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Painted some more parts while the block is at the machine shop. I'm happy with the results of the duplicolor paint but the fumes are no joke. Even with the doors open, a fan going, and a mask, I'm sure I lost a few brain cells tonight. I'm going to need to wear a better mask when I paint the entire block. 

20200615_212138_compress50.jpg

20200615_212119_compress28.jpg

20200615_212114_compress93.jpg

Edited by Bdblazer1978
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I pulled the distributor apart (first time working on a distributor, just like everything with this).  The part on the right looks like a bearing but mine doesn't move. Once it's in the other part it would only be able to move ~1/8" if it is supposed to move. My manual just lists it as a sub assembly plate. 

 

Is it supposed to move? And if so why?

20200626_203258_compress81.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

According to a Mobil lube chart I picked up on eBay back in '98, the distributor is to be oiled at the oil cup on the side of the body with light engine oil every 2000 miles, with a few drops at the wick under the rotor every 10,000 miles, and a light film of grease applied to the points cam... think of how much those mechanical parts move on the breaker plate, I would assume it needs to move as smoothly as a door latch, so add a few drops of light engine oil to the mechanism if not for lubrication but also for moisture displacement...light engine oil has more surface tension than 3in1 or wd40, so it is more likely to "stick" to the metal parts...

 

I have found that there is a lot of vagueness in lubrication procedures for these small parts in shop manuals and lube charts, but my guess is that these documents were aimed at mechanics who had a trained eye as to what needed lube and how much and how often, a skill that is lost on the inexperienced...I've had enough practice to kinda know what needs attention and how often, but it has taken years of accumulating experience to develop an eye for being a respectable grease monkey :cool:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

My wheel adaptors showed up, looking forward to putting the wheels back on. The truck really needs to be pushed out of the garage and have the pollen rinsed off.  Also started to rebuild the heater. It's been like Christmas in July with all the replacement parts I've been ordering. 

20200701_200548_compress26.jpg

20200701_202905_compress80.jpg

20200705_161026_compress35.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, Bdblazer1978 said:

 

 

 

20200705_161026_compress35.jpg

What kind of heater is this?  I happen to have one in my replacement cab that is missing the fan and blade.  Id like to get down to 1 heater assembly, the replacement cab had 2 of them, a Mopar 70 and the one above).  I may or may not keep my heater that looks like yours but am trying to identify the heater first.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Lingle said:

What kind of heater is this?  I happen to have one in my replacement cab that is missing the fan and blade.  Id like to get down to 1 heater assembly, the replacement cab had 2 of them, a Mopar 70 and the one above).  I may or may not keep my heater that looks like yours but am trying to identify the heater first.

@Lingle the marking on the inside is Super Cast 4693. According to the below thread it's a Haydees. Sorry I don't have much else. If you need any sizes, let me know, it will be in parts for a couple days till I reassemble it. 

https://www.oldwillysforum.com/forum/index.php?threads/willys-heaters-the-good-the-bad-and-the-ugly.3103/page-2

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
33 minutes ago, Lingle said:

looks very nice!  did the heater core check out ok or did you have to have it repaired?

@Lingle I cleaned out the core and didn't have any leaks, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I plan to hook it up before I put the entire interior back together to test it again. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finished all the brake lines and finally put the tires back on. It was nice to push it out of the garage and wash all the pollen off. Also took care of the toe in/out after the disk brake upgrade. Finished cleaning and painting the transmission.  

20200730_173114_compress90.jpg

20200730_173147_compress90.jpg

Edited by Bdblazer1978
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use