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Posted
12 hours ago, Merle Coggins said:

 

I would never do that... ?

(I was in a private lot) 

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That looks about exactly what I figure I'd look like.  Except, you went and sprung for the fancy seat with a cushion. I figured mine would just be flipped over. 

Posted

I think I got even fancier!  My buddy who helped a ton on FEF pictured.

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  • Like 3
Posted

Hey Minicooper, regarding that dual master cylinder, do you know if it would work with stock drum brakes? Also interested in more details like how you did the brake lights and which outlet runs front brakes.

 

Thanks

Posted
6 hours ago, dcotant said:

Hey Minicooper, regarding that dual master cylinder, do you know if it would work with stock drum brakes? Also interested in more details like how you did the brake lights and which outlet runs front brakes.

 

Thanks

Can’t see why it wouldn’t, my rear brakes are original drums. Just the front are discs.

Posted

@minicooper I just got my 1950 B2 and am looking to replace the master cylinder first for road safety. What are the modifications you had to make to make the part fit? Sorry for the newbie question - I'm cutting my teeth on a B2 of my own and I'd like to have a better-than-blind idea of what I'm getting into :)

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  • Like 1
Posted

Enlarged the 3 holes on the master cylinder to fit the original bolts. I believe that's all we had to do, other than adjust the push rod, I can't remember if it had to be shortened or not. Of course you'll need new brake lines so that you can split the front and rear. The fittings for the split and the brake light pressure switches (two, one for each brake line circuit) fit on the frame under the cab.

Posted

@minicooper thanks for looking at it. Quick question: the link you posted for the part looks like it is a single cylinder - is it single or a dual master cylinder?

Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, Matfirstattempt said:

@minicooper thanks for looking at it. Quick question: the link you posted for the part looks like it is a single cylinder - is it single or a dual master cylinder?

No, it’s a dual reservoir. Brake lines are split, front brake line port is on the front, closest to the steering gear box, rear brake port is on the driver’s side.

 

The brake light pressure switches are on the frame, behind the pedals. I need to clean up the wiring a bit, could be neater!

 

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Edited by minicooper
Spelling
Posted

Radiator is being re-cored so I cleaned off a hornets nest and rust off the mount and painted it. Also cleaned and painted the oil pan and bellhousing. Ran the new brake lines to the rear drums.

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  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Painted some more parts while the block is at the machine shop. I'm happy with the results of the duplicolor paint but the fumes are no joke. Even with the doors open, a fan going, and a mask, I'm sure I lost a few brain cells tonight. I'm going to need to wear a better mask when I paint the entire block. 

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Edited by Bdblazer1978
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I pulled the distributor apart (first time working on a distributor, just like everything with this).  The part on the right looks like a bearing but mine doesn't move. Once it's in the other part it would only be able to move ~1/8" if it is supposed to move. My manual just lists it as a sub assembly plate. 

 

Is it supposed to move? And if so why?

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Posted

According to a Mobil lube chart I picked up on eBay back in '98, the distributor is to be oiled at the oil cup on the side of the body with light engine oil every 2000 miles, with a few drops at the wick under the rotor every 10,000 miles, and a light film of grease applied to the points cam... think of how much those mechanical parts move on the breaker plate, I would assume it needs to move as smoothly as a door latch, so add a few drops of light engine oil to the mechanism if not for lubrication but also for moisture displacement...light engine oil has more surface tension than 3in1 or wd40, so it is more likely to "stick" to the metal parts...

 

I have found that there is a lot of vagueness in lubrication procedures for these small parts in shop manuals and lube charts, but my guess is that these documents were aimed at mechanics who had a trained eye as to what needed lube and how much and how often, a skill that is lost on the inexperienced...I've had enough practice to kinda know what needs attention and how often, but it has taken years of accumulating experience to develop an eye for being a respectable grease monkey :cool:

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

My wheel adaptors showed up, looking forward to putting the wheels back on. The truck really needs to be pushed out of the garage and have the pollen rinsed off.  Also started to rebuild the heater. It's been like Christmas in July with all the replacement parts I've been ordering. 

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  • Like 3
Posted
12 hours ago, Bdblazer1978 said:

 

 

 

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What kind of heater is this?  I happen to have one in my replacement cab that is missing the fan and blade.  Id like to get down to 1 heater assembly, the replacement cab had 2 of them, a Mopar 70 and the one above).  I may or may not keep my heater that looks like yours but am trying to identify the heater first.

Posted
7 hours ago, Lingle said:

What kind of heater is this?  I happen to have one in my replacement cab that is missing the fan and blade.  Id like to get down to 1 heater assembly, the replacement cab had 2 of them, a Mopar 70 and the one above).  I may or may not keep my heater that looks like yours but am trying to identify the heater first.

@Lingle the marking on the inside is Super Cast 4693. According to the below thread it's a Haydees. Sorry I don't have much else. If you need any sizes, let me know, it will be in parts for a couple days till I reassemble it. 

https://www.oldwillysforum.com/forum/index.php?threads/willys-heaters-the-good-the-bad-and-the-ugly.3103/page-2

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

looks very nice!  did the heater core check out ok or did you have to have it repaired?

Edited by Lingle
Posted
33 minutes ago, Lingle said:

looks very nice!  did the heater core check out ok or did you have to have it repaired?

@Lingle I cleaned out the core and didn't have any leaks, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I plan to hook it up before I put the entire interior back together to test it again. 

Posted (edited)

Finished all the brake lines and finally put the tires back on. It was nice to push it out of the garage and wash all the pollen off. Also took care of the toe in/out after the disk brake upgrade. Finished cleaning and painting the transmission.  

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Edited by Bdblazer1978
  • Like 1

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