2 sheave pulley for crankshaft - 56 230

[kencombs]

I plan to use power steering when the pickup goes back together.  Right now I'm working on the engine.  It is from a 56 plymouth and has a single sheave pulley sandwiched between the hub on the crankshaft and the dampener on the very front.  I would like to replace that with a 2 sheave version or add another single.  May have been available with factory power steering in the mid 50s.  Anybody know for sure? 

 

Once I pass that hurdle, the next step will be to build a mount for a later model pump.

[Dodgeb4ya]

I have a 54 Chrysler 265 that has the crankshaft dual pulley and damper. It is a power steering engine.

[Sniper]

Some food for thought.  I plan to add AC to my 51 at some point and probably power steering.  Going to go serpentine belt as it's real tight in the Cambridge for one belt, not sure two will fit adn no way will three.  I found a neutral balance harmonic balancer that also incorporates a 6 rib pulley on it's outer shell.  I figure it I can redrill the hub or the balancer to mate I can get a new hub made.  Just food for thought.

 

Link to the balancer  https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1858862&cc=1432708&jsn=13

[YukonJack]

A better solution might be a 2 groove water pump pulley if you are using the narrow belt now.

[kencombs]

2 hours ago, Sniper said:

Some food for thought.  I plan to add AC to my 51 at some point and probably power steering.  Going to go serpentine belt as it's real tight in the Cambridge for one belt, not sure two will fit adn no way will three.  I found a neutral balance harmonic balancer that also incorporates a 6 rib pulley on it's outer shell.  I figure it I can redrill the hub or the balancer to mate I can get a new hub made.  Just food for thought.

 

Link to the balancer  https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1858862&cc=1432708&jsn=13

Yeah, I posted a question about that some time back.  I haven't given up on it, but the general consensus was:  bad idea.  One could start with a stock flatie dampener and a water pump pulley fitted to it.  Should be easier and cheaper than a new hub.  No real precision machining at $$$$ per machine hour.   I think it may be doable, the only question is:  which is easiest and/or best? 

[kencombs]

1 hour ago, YukonJack said:

A better solution might be a 2 groove water pump pulley if you are using the narrow belt now.

Use the water pump's second sheave to drive the power steering?  I wonder about the bearing load of both the steering and alternator?

[kencombs]

3 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

I have a 54 Chrysler 265 that has the crankshaft dual pulley and damper. It is a power steering engine.

Is the pulley behind the damper like my Ply?  Or part of the damper assembly, like later stuff?

Edited January 17, 2020 by kencombs

[Dodgeb4ya]

4 hours ago, kencombs said:

Is the pulley behind the damper like my Ply?  Or part of the damper assembly, like later stuff?

Behind...

[James_Douglas]

I spent a lot of time on this subject. The rebuild of the 1947 Desoto for x-country road trips.

 

After lots of thought on how to get Power Steering and A/C on the car, I am going a totally different route. It will not be cheap, but should prove to be a good option.

 

I will use just one belt, a stock one, that will be driven off the crankshaft then run an A/C compressor then a very high current Alternator. No Water pump. No Power steering pump.

 

I am going to use an electric water pump and set of two electric puller fans. I am also going to use an electric power steering system that will allow me to use my stock steering box.

 

This way I am shedding a fair amount of parasitic HP loss from the water pump and the engine driven fan. I will loose some back to the large alternator, but it will be a  "win" HP wise.

 

I also found a company that tells me they can make me a 12v gear reduction starter.

 

By going all electric, I will make the front of the engine "less fussy".

 

I am working on the theoretical design of the fuel inject this month. The big issue is the reversion due to the Siamese ports. What I am going to do it to drill the Edmund's manifold (I heard people crying out!) and place three bugs facing into each block port (if you have seen an Edmund's you will know what I mean). I am going to use some JenDev throttle bodies that can be used either with an injector or as just an air body. That way if we have revision issues, I can punt and go to two throttle body injectors. I will use two carbs to break the engine in at the machine shop and put the unit into the car and then add the FI after everything else is worked out.

 

It will be interesting to see how this works out!

 

James

Edited January 19, 2020 by James_Douglas

[kencombs]

2 hours ago, James_Douglas said:

I spent a lot of time on this subject. The rebuild of the 1947 Desoto for x-country road trips.

 

After lots of thought on how to get Power Steering and A/C on the car, I am going a totally different route. It will not be cheap, but should prove to be a good option.

 

I will use just one belt, a stock one, that will be driven off the crankshaft then run an A/C compressor then a very high current Alternator. No Water pump. No Power steering pump.

 

I am going to use an electric water pump and set of two electric puller fans. I am also going to use an electric power steering system that will allow me to use my stock steering box.

 

This way I am shedding a fair amount of parasitic HP loss from the water pump and the engine driven fan. I will loose some back to the large alternator, but it will be a  "win" HP wise.

 

I also found a company that tells me they can make me a 12v gear reduction starter.

 

By going all electric, I will make the front of the engine "less fussy".

 

I am working on the theoretical design of the fuel inject this month. The big issue is the reversion due to the Siamese ports. What I am going to do it to drill the Edmund's manifold (I heard people crying out!) and place three bugs facing into each block port (if you have seen an Edmund's you will know what I mean). I am going to use some JenDev throttle bodies that can be used either with an injector or as just an air body. That way if we have revision issues, I can punt and go to two throttle body injectors. I will use two carbs to break the engine in at the machine shop and put the unit into the car and then add the FI after everything else is worked out.

 

It will be interesting to see how this works out!

 

James

I'm also considering the power steering.  The unit from several GM cars would be a good solution.  Also the electric fan is a solid hp return. While it takes hp to run the alternator, the fans only run as needed, so should be a hp saver too.  I do question the water pump though.  Since it is a continuous load, it may not net any return.  It just depends on the current draw needed to move an adequate amount of water.

 

On the fuel injection subject:  I'd like to do that but much later, after everything else is done.  I wonder if it would be possible to put the injector nozzles directly in the block, near the underside of the valves?  Would take some precision drilling but would solve the shared port issue.  Maybe.