51 B3B build thread - after all these years

[bkahler]

1 hour ago, JBNeal said:

As thick as that foam is, it's probably a decent sound insulator so ya can really get on the throttle while on the road and not think that the engine is screaming...

 

When it's time to install them floorboards, there's those bolts clipped to the cab that sometimes get lost...I made a small modification that addresses missing or damaged bolts that might help...

 

I saw your modification post previously while searching for various things.  Back in the days when I was canvasing junkyards for parts I managed to salvage enough of the J clips and acme screws to replace all of mine.  A couple from one truck, a few from another and eventually I had enough

 

Thanks!

 

Brad

[Merle Coggins]

The 3 speed transmissions prior to the B2 series were a standard floor shift, so it would have needed a similar seal 

[bkahler]

23 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said:

The 3 speed transmissions prior to the B2 series were a standard floor shift, so it would have needed a similar seal 

 

Learn something new everyday, I was not aware there was a floor shift 3-speed!  I assume it was a spur gear non-syncro type, correct?

 

Thanks for the info!

 

Brad

[bkahler]

Yesterday morning I finished cleaning and greasing the wiper motor and managed to get it bolted in place under the dash.  The job took about 45 minutes longer than expected because I dropped one of the screws with lock washer and it took me about 20 minutes to find the screw.  I carefully set the screw aside and resumed looking for the lock washer.  Finally found it after about 15 more minutes of tearing the garage apart.  I then spent another 10 minutes trying to find the screw that I had safely set aside......?   Getting old sucks sometimes......

 

I also got the wiper pivots fastened in place.  Just waiting on some 1/4" nylon washers before I can install the actuator arms.  Next up under the dash after the actuator arms is going to be the cowl vent.  The gasket is already glued in place so it's just a matter of piecing it all together.

 

Brad

[ggdad1951]

I hear ya...I'm STILL looking for a cowl vent pivot bolt I dropped 3 years ago...

[bkahler]

8 minutes ago, ggdad1951 said:

I hear ya...I'm STILL looking for a cowl vent pivot bolt I dropped 3 years ago...

 

My guess is you probably won't find it!

 

This does bring up a good point.  Since I don't have the two floorboards installed yet I probably should cover the opening with plastic.  That might make it easier to find stuff that I drop.

 

 

[bkahler]

Well, in case you didn't catch the news, I'll be swapping out my stock diff for a 2002 Grand Cherokee diff with disc brakes and 3.73 gearing.  I'll also make the swap to Charlie Aker's front disc brakes and a different master cylinder.  I'll post pictures as I go as I modify the diff to fit under my truck.  

 

Tips and suggestions are welcome

 

Brad

 

[Merle Coggins]

Have you checked the wheel bolt pattern of the '02 Grand Cherokee? I though those were 5X5"

[CO54]

2002 GC is a 5x5.  93-98 GC's are 5x4.5

[bkahler]

1 hour ago, Merle Coggins said:

Have you checked the wheel bolt pattern of the '02 Grand Cherokee? I though those were 5X5"

 

They are and I thought I was going to be ok using wheel spacers because I thought the Cherokee wms was 60 and my truck is 62.25".  Now it looks like it might be 65" so I may have some quick juggling to do in the morning with the salvage yard.  

 

wow, this is a lot of fun......NOT!

 

 

 

 

[CO54]

Your front is 65" or your original rear axle is 65"?

[bkahler]

20 minutes ago, CO54 said:

Your front is 65" or your original rear axle is 65"?

 

The distance between wheel mounting surfaces (wms) on the rear of my 1/2 is 62-1/4".  It appears the Cherokee diff from 1999-2004 is 65".  That won't work.  It seems that from 1993-1998 the Cherokee wms was 60".  I need to source an earlier diff than the 2002 I was going to buy.

 

 

[CO54]

9 minutes ago, bkahler said:

 

The distance between wheel mounting surfaces (wms) on the rear of my 1/2 is 62-1/4".  It appears the Cherokee diff from 1999-2004 is 65".  That won't work.  It seems that from 1993-1998 the Cherokee wms was 60".  I need to source an earlier diff than the 2002 I was going to buy.

 

 

Are you using original wheels still?  Don't they sit back pretty far inside the fender?  

What if you put in a 1" spacer upfront to compensate an option?  Puts you at 64-1/4" F and 65" R, unless the 65" is before adapters?

You started the adapter option so I'm looking at it for my front end to keep the original 5x5 I currently have before completing my Rusty Hope conversion.

 

I miss read your post, are you able to add spacers to front and different wheel with more backspacing?

Edited January 11, 2020 by CO54

[bkahler]

28 minutes ago, CO54 said:

Are you using original wheels still?  Don't they sit back pretty far inside the fender?  

What if you put in a 1" spacer upfront to compensate an option?  Puts you at 64-1/4" F and 65" R, unless the 65" is before adapters?

You started the adapter option so I'm looking at it for my front end to keep the original 5x5 I currently have before completing my Rusty Hope conversion.

 

I miss read your post, are you able to add spacers to front and different wheel with more backspacing?

 

Yep, original 16" wheels.  As far as how far they sit back, I don't know.  It's been a long time since I've had the bed and fenders mounted!

 

The problem is likely to be the 2-3/4" difference between the 2002 Cherokee and the original plus the smallest wheel adapter I can find is 1" so that's 4-3/4" difference, which is a lot.

 

I still haven't found out how much wider the Rusty Hope conversion is for the front WMS.  

 

 

Edited January 11, 2020 by bkahler

[CO54]

50 minutes ago, bkahler said:

 

Yep, original 16" wheels.  As far as how far they sit back, I don't know.  It's been a long time since I've had the bed and fenders mounted!

 

The problem is likely to be the 2-3/4" difference between the 2002 Cherokee and the original plus the smallest wheel adapter I can find is 1" so that's 4-3/4" difference, which is a lot.

 

I still haven't found out how much wider the Rusty Hope conversion is for the front WMS.  

 

 

From what I've read the Rusty Kit does add some to WMS, I haven't done mine yet, even with all parts sitting here.  (engine running was wifey priority).  Possible to put good deal on rear diff on hold, and do Rusty the recheck?

The rear diff price is great, considering I'm looking at 200 for a Pull n Pay rear diff here. 

Just my side thoughts. 

[bkahler]

As it turns out there are no rear axles available in the configuration that I need close by.  I checked out the four yards close to me with zero luck.  Plenty of Jeep Grand Cherokees but all are 99 and newer with the 5 x 5 bolt pattern and 65" wide wms.

 

The ones I could find that would work were 3.55 axles.  I want 3.73.

 

I've got a line on a 97 3.73 with disc brakes and they are measuring the wms distance right now.  I hope to hear back shortly.

 

 

[CO54]

1 hour ago, bkahler said:

As it turns out there are no rear axles available in the configuration that I need close by.  I checked out the four yards close to me with zero luck.  Plenty of Jeep Grand Cherokees but all are 99 and newer with the 5 x 5 bolt pattern and 65" wide wms.

 

The ones I could find that would work were 3.55 axles.  I want 3.73.

 

I've got a line on a 97 3.73 with disc brakes and they are measuring the wms distance right now.  I hope to hear back shortly.

 

 

Fingers crossed. 

[bkahler]

I haven't heard back but he did mention that they were closing soon and might not get to it.  My guess is I'll hear something Monday morning.

 

Have money in hand, just need to be sure

 

Brad

 

[CO54]

1 minute ago, bkahler said:

I haven't heard back but he did mention that they were closing soon and might not get to it.  My guess is I'll hear something Monday morning.

 

Have money in hand, just need to be sure

 

Brad

 

Understood. 

It's parts soaking for me today.  Have to let years of mud n dirt soak soften up to get to the grease.  Lil man had tournament today, so it's a split day. 

 

[bkahler]

22 minutes ago, CO54 said:

Understood. 

It's parts soaking for me today.  Have to let years of mud n dirt soak soften up to get to the grease.  Lil man had tournament today, so it's a split day. 

 

 

After Ken suggested using Evpo-rust on my diff pumpkin I'm extremely impressed at how well it removes rust.  I've used it on a few other things and they come out spotless.  You might consider using it if you haven't already.

 

[CO54]

15 minutes ago, bkahler said:

 

After Ken suggested using Evpo-rust on my diff pumpkin I'm extremely impressed at how well it removes rust.  I've used it on a few other things and they come out spotless.  You might consider using it if you haven't already.

 

 

15 minutes ago, bkahler said:

 

After Ken suggested using Evpo-rust on my diff pumpkin I'm extremely impressed at how well it removes rust.  I've used it on a few other things and they come out spotless.  You might consider using it if you haven't already.

 

 

Hit quote button twice, sorry. LOL 

I haven't tried Evapo-rust yet, I tried a gallon of Metal Rescue and think I got shafted with a jug that was already open.  Will look into the the Evapo-rust.  Right now it's hot water, Dawn dishsoap and LA's Totally Awesome degreaser to breakup the dirt, grime etc on a bunch of misc parts. 

 

[bkahler]

Now that I'm committed to disc front brakes (on order) and most likely discs in the rear the next change has to be the brake master cylinder.

 

I'm considering using an AC Delco 18M802 that was discussed in this thread.  

 

Lots more work to do now!

 

Brad

 

[JBNeal]

Will ya need a proportioning valve for your setup or is that TBD...?

[bkahler]

4 minutes ago, JBNeal said:

Will ya need a proportioning valve for your setup or is that TBD...?

 

Good question

 

At this point I don't have a clue.  This whole swap process is a whole new field for me.  I guess a proportioning valve is something I'll have to some research on.

 

 

[bkahler]

Just a few ramblings as I start into this diff swap, front disc conversion and brake MC change.

 

I ordered a 97 Grand Cherokee rear axle with disc brakes over the weekend and might have it as early as mid next week.  I should be receiving the front disc kit from Charlie this evening.  The balance of the components needed for the front disc conversion I ordered from Amazon and they should be here this evening as well.   I'm going to go ahead and remove the king pins so I can do the drilling and tapping of the steering knuckles on my drill press instead of trying to freehand them with a hand drill.

 

I've stared doing some research on the master cylinder swap and it appears that the Cherokee MC is highly recommended and I found a few references to a Toyota Celica MC.  I measured the piston stroke on my original MC and it has a stroke of approximately 1.5".  I'm assuming any replacement MC should have the same basic 1.5" stroke.  I'd rather not get into redesigning the brake pedal setup so any tips in this area would be appreciated.  Any thoughts on running the original MC for a while to get a feel for how things are working?

 

For those of you that have installed Charlies front disc kit, did you mount the calipers in front or behind the wheels?  I would think the suggested brake hose length would change depending on orientation.