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Posted
On 10/12/2019 at 1:18 PM, Los_Control said:

here is what mine looked like, and I bought brass replacements

image.png.c4c925c9af4841fbb7669192b13c5c55.png

 

Here is a example of the deeper one I spoke of

 

image.png.5e29e2d0d41890cb8d62ecaf52343278.png

 

 

Good to know.  Yeah the deeper dish ones are the ones I remember.  I'll make sure I find the thinner ones.  Thanks 

  • 3 months later...
Posted

I have a related coolant drain valve problem. I was able to remove the old valve and replace it with a new one. But - no doubt due to corrosion inside the coolant passage - I saw that there were only 2 to 3 pipe threads left in the block to screw the drain valve into. I put some Permatex sealant on the valve threads and it's holding, but I really don't trust it. I wonder if there is something that can be done to repair the block and restore the pipe threads. I'd feel much better with six or seven threads in there. Or is there some other clever way to make the valve secure and leakproof rather than resorting to JB Weld?

Posted

Since pipe threads are tapered and depending on how deep your current valve is set into the block, you may be able to run a pipe tap in and create a few more partial threads.  If your valve is bottomed out, you may need to consider drilling and tapping for the next larger size.

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Posted
25 minutes ago, Fernando Mendes said:

 

DSCN6379.JPG

Thats fine,but all the  coolant from the water pump down remains in the block. Not an issue for pulling head or thermostat, but to flush block all the coolant has to come out. 

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