Spare Parts Day! A good haul.

[keithb7]

They are many guys here who are bad influences! I am on my way to becoming a parts hoarder. Today I secured:

 

A D32 C 1818C SN engine. I think it came out of a truck. Canadian 25” long block.with clutch assy, flywheel and housing on it. Carb. Manifolds. Distributor. Starter. Etc.  It was running when pulled. Stored indoors. Bars over.  Think its maybe a 251? We’ll see. 

 

A 3 speed manual tranny with park brake assy on rear. Part number 138238-1 DPCD cast in it. 

 

Some other giblets too.  A 10” brake drum. Another flywheel and bottom tin cover. Clutch linkage etc. 

 

Most excited about the oil bath air cleaner that I also took home. It fits my ‘38 Ply very nicely. The ‘38 came with a modern type paper air filter. It just looked wrong on there. 

 

My garage is getting fatter. My wallet thinner. So much fun though. 

 

Got a great deal for all from a solid local fellow Mopar enthusiast. A good club of folks to be a part of. 

 

 

[Tim Larson]

Awesome! Congrats!

[Worden18]

Sweet!  I like that you made use of the oil bath.?

[keithb7]

As per my engine SN, I think a D32 is a 1949 Canadian built Dodge? Anyone able to confirm. Someone here has one most likely. What ci engine? 218? Thx. 

 

Edited to say, by chance I looked and found that I have a 1949 Canadian Chrysler shop manual in my library.  The D32 is the Canadian built 1949 Dodge Deluxe. 218 ci engine. 3 ⅜ bore x 4 1/16 stroke. 

Edited September 19, 2019 by keithb7

[DJ194950]

Is that a fluid drive bell, etc setup on the back of your New motor?

 

DJ

[keithb7]

@DJ194950 No it has a dry clutch. 

[keithb7]

“It ran the last time it was parked.” And other open ended statements. Lol.  It’s all good. I never paid for a runner. 

 

It won’t bar over. That complicates the bell housing removal. I can’t access all the clutch cover bolts or flywheel bolts. 

 

I’ll try and lube up the cylinders for a while. I read some good tricks here I’ll try. What about removing the timing chain? If the cam and valves are badly corroded, that takes them out of the revolving mass. If the piston rings break free will it be easier to bar over minus the valvetrain? I suspect so. 

 

The cylinder bore measured up to a 218 that’s been bored over .020

Stroke? Well that could be a while. 

 

 

[Merle Coggins]

When I disassembled my engine it was rusted tight. I ended up removing the crankshaft with the FD still attached because I couldn't access all of the nuts without being able to bar it over. After the crank was out I wire brushed the crud in the upper cylinders and oiled things up. I used a block of wood and a BFH to drive the pistons down slightly, cleaned more of the cylinder bore, then used another wood block from the bottom to drive them up and out. Then on to the valves, which were also rusted tight. My LARGE Channel Lock pliers could grip the cam sprocket and I worked it back and forth a little at a time until I had all valves in their fully open position. Then I could remove the came and tappets. Hammered the valves back closed (they were all getting replaced anyway) to remove the springs. I then had to use a long punch and drive the valves out from the bottom up.

 

The machine shop bored/honed the cylinders 0.030" over, shaved the block deck and head, replaced all of the valve guides and valve seats (they were pretty rusty and pitted too), and fit the wrist pin bushings into the connecting rods. They also supplies me with new pistons and rings. All for around $700. I'll never find a deal that good again. That was 13 years ago. He's retired, and his shop is closed, now.

[keithb7]

Patience...And A strict daily schedule of tapping. Oxidation reversal process begins. 

[keithb7]

Today my oldest son dropped by for a visit. He put on some coveralls and dug right in to the engine with me.

 

He really made my day. He’s a business career guy. I made sure to teach him about car maintenance and repairs when he was in his teens. We worked together pulling an engine and tranny when he was 16. Then he met girls and went to university. You know how that goes...Cat Stevens wrote a song all about it. 

 

I was elated to have him working with me today breaking down this flathead engine. We walked thru all the systems, explaining what each part does. Having a real sample to look at is so much better than a book. 

 

Having a large young man to flip blocks around like lego, impressed me the most. The extra muscle was greatly appreciated. 

 

Turns out he’s got time and wants to come see me on Saturdays, to work on vintage mopar car stuff with me. I welcome him and am quite happy to learn of his interest and enthusiasm in my old Mopars. 

 

We pulled the oil pan to get a good look at the bottom side of the pistons. We now know what we are dealing with. We’ll lift the crank out next Sat, with the flywheel & clutch still attached. Then go from there. At least everything will be out of the way. 

 

 

 

Edited September 22, 2019 by keithb7

[keithb7]

My son came by for day #2 of the 218 teardown. We lifted the crank out with the flywheel and clutch attached. Then we pounded on the pistons from the bottom side. We used a round piece of wood from an actual small tree that we cut up a few weeks ago. It all came apart. Cam out. Tappets. Valve train. Everything. I am still going to tear into a few more parts to learn a few more things. For example a good internal oil pump imspection sounds interesting to me. The water distribution tube is being stubborn on this one. I will attempt to get it out. That’ll be fun. 

 

Next I’ll degrease and clean up the block and mic it up. See where it’s at. Likely then I’ll coat it, wrap it up and store it for future consideration. 

 

Here my son is taking the valve train apart. I am happy to teach him this stuff. He basically tore down the engine. I just passed him tools and advice. He said he’s learned a ton. This foundational engine stuff still applies in new cars and trucks today. He can at least talk somewhat intelligently about engines in his life. 

Edited September 28, 2019 by keithb7

[keithb7]

Doing engine research, I am comparing 218 vs 228 Canadian built 25” engines. They are very close. Same bore at 3 3/8”. 218 has 4 1/16” stroke. 228 has 4 ¼” stroke. A difference of only 3/16” on the stroke. 

 

That sure isn’t much. Is this slightly longer stroke in the 228 made up in crank throw? Or connecting rod length? Does anyone know? I wonder why Chrysler would bother? To keep up with the engine displacement race probably. 

 

On another note I did compare my 201.3 crank vs my 218 crank. Side by side. Aside from the length difference, the 218 is considerably larger and has more steel in it. Larger bearing diameters. Its quite a more robust crank. I’m impressed. 

 

Edited September 28, 2019 by keithb7

[Merle Coggins]

The longer stroke is achieved by a longer crank throw, which often times requires a shorter connecting rod. An engine with a longer stroke can make more torque. 

[dpollo]

you can remove the bell housing by driving the dowel pins toward the flywheel, then the bell housing will lift off from the top

 Connecting rods are shorter as the stroke gets longer.  I have the part numbers written on the wall.  Saves time when trying to identify an engine.

 D32 is a 49 Canadian Dodge.  218.