Carter Carb DTG-1 is Missing

[TomSan]

I have a 1952 B-3-C with fluid drive.  Previous owner replaced carburetor with a Motorcraft carb.  It is functional, but has an automatic choke (how boring) and no manual throttle cable to the cab (really, those Ford guys are so boring).  See photo of existing configuration.

According to 1951-52 B3 Dodge shop manual, it should have a Carter Ball in Ball "DTG-1."  See  two photos from manual.

The 1948-53 Dodge parts manual lists a Dodge part number for this model truck as 1269 404 (I have Fluid Drive).

I have looked online for Carter Ball in Ball units, and they have a number on the upper fin, but of the ones I've seen, the numbers do not correspond to any of above numbers.   At recent SWAP meet, passed 1,500 booths and saw lots of old carbs (not many MOPAR).  One gentleman had some ball in ball, but number appeared to be D6H2.  See last photo.

Can anyone help?  Should the Carter have the DTG-1 printed on the fin?  Are there many (any?) DTG-1 out there?

Thanks so much. 

BTW, I have owned this truck for a year and been searching online and looking at Ebay and various vendor sites.  Until coming upon this forum, felt like I was in a wasteland.  Finding this site was like crawling over a sand dune and seeing an oasis with water, shade, and belly dancers.  Well, at least the water and shade.  You all have some great resources.    And no offense to those who own Fords – I have owned several over the years and now own two modern ones ?

[Dodgeb4ya]

That carburetor you need ( DTG1)  is the correct carb and the number is stamped on the air horn..

Picture from the master carter parts/application book shown...

[TomSan]

Thank you much

now to find one

[stylesadamson]

I have a rebuilt DTE1 if you are interested

[Jeff Balazs]

Hello and welcome.

These do come up on Ebay from time to time. I actually got an NOS one there for a very decent price. It had never even been bolted down. When you find one you will need the rebuild kit with the dashpot plunger from Mikes Carbs. Best of luck.

Jeff

[TomSan]

Stylesadamson

 

From the Service Manual, appears the DTE-1 was used on non-fluid drive B-3-C trucks, while DTG-1 was for fluid drives.  I am looking into getting some Carter literature and seeing how and why they are different. 

So I want to wait a bit but may take you up if I cant find a DTG-1.

 

Go 52

 

Thanks much

Tom

[TomSan]

Jeff

Thanks, I will keep looking.  Appreciate the tip re Mike's carbs.  They are just a couple hours north of me.

Tom

[Brent B3B]

21 hours ago, TomSan said:

Jeff

Thanks, I will keep looking.  Appreciate the tip re Mike's carbs.  They are just a couple hours north of me.

Tom

don't look to hard Tom 

[TomSan]

Jeff

Wow.  Looking good

[TomSan]

Well, I had a DTG-1 find me.  It all started with this forum and the generosity of its members.

 

Thanks so much for the support.

 

Tom

[Jeff Balazs]

Good deal Tom;

I will be interested to hear if putting this one on makes much of a difference in how your FD equipped truck runs.

Jeff

[TomSan]

Unfortunately It will be a while.  I am having our car port enclosed to create a two car garage.  That’s where ‘52 will spend summers.  So with permits & construction i need to wait for driveway and garage to be available again.

[TomSan]

But that construction SHOULD only slow me a bit from rebuilding the DTG

[Anthony]

All,

 

The diff is the fluid drive carb dtg1 has that extra screw in the top. This adjusts a piston that prevents the throttle from closing too quickly and stalling the motor, these only came on fluid drive cars. Other than that they are the same.

[TomSan]

Anthony

Thanks for your comment.  I am looking forward to getting into the rebuild

[Alan Hensley]

I am rebuilding a DTG1 and, for some reason, it doesn't have a high-idle lever. Could someone who has one please send me/post a photo showing one with the lever installed and give me the the length, especially the distance from end to bend in both directions please? In fact, it you could give photos showing the four sides of the carb, it would really be appreciated. Is it the same lever used on the D6H2? I see the slot in the upper end where it would mount, I believe, but not the lower end. I have yet to find the second dashpot replacement in any kit and Mike's was no help. Would the dashpot end be the same as the accelerator pump? Could the dashpot be removed from a new accelerator dashpot and placed on the second (slotted) dashpot rod. I also am unable to find a manual that describes the DTGI like the one shown in an earlier post. Could someone who has one, post a flat copy or send me an email attachment with that info please.

[TomSan]

Hi

i did acquire a DTG-1 but have not installed it.  Here are photos of each side.

Hope that helps 

[Merle Coggins]

20 hours ago, Alan Hensley said:

I am rebuilding a DTG1 and, for some reason, it doesn't have a high-idle lever. Could someone who has one please send me/post a photo showing one with the lever installed and give me the the length, especially the distance from end to bend in both directions please? In fact, it you could give photos showing the four sides of the carb, it would really be appreciated. Is it the same lever used on the D6H2? I see the slot in the upper end where it would mount, I believe, but not the lower end. I have yet to find the second dashpot replacement in any kit and Mike's was no help. Would the dashpot end be the same as the accelerator pump? Could the dashpot be removed from a new accelerator dashpot and placed on the second (slotted) dashpot rod. I also am unable to find a manual that describes the DTGI like the one shown in an earlier post. Could someone who has one, post a flat copy or send me an email attachment with that info please.

 

 

I have a DTG1 on my truck and it doesn't have a fast idle cam. 

I don't recall where I got my rebuild kit, but it did come with a dash pot plunger. However, I pretty much have it disabled by screwing in the screw above it so that it has no stroke. It is supposed to help the engine to not stall around when coming to a stop against the Fluid Drive, but I have never had an issue with that, even with it disabled. I didn't like how it would hang up the idle when I wanted it to come down. 

[Jeff Balazs]

Hey Tom;

I will look through my stuff they weekend. I may even have an extra kit for the dashpot....if memory serves?

I have the one on my truck in functioning condition. Not sure it is absolutely required but since I have it I set it to work. I should be able to get decent pictures as well. One thing I will say is that once these carbs are properly clean and adjusted they work very well.

Jeff

[TomSan]

Jeff

Thanks.  Looking forward to the pics.  I was able to pick up some linkage from an old farm truck and took photos as I disassembled.  And I have the DTG1 to rebuild.  I will need to replace the Motocraft carb in there now and it would help to see your linkage connections.

 

[Jeff Balazs]

Hi Tom;

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. Here is a photo of the linkage on my DTG1. Please excuse the dirt....but it is a daily driver.

Hth and let me know if you need something else.

Jeff

[Alan Hensley]

I found a place to get the complete kit for the DTG1, including the leather for the dash pot -- Mike's Carbs. So that mystery is solved. In fact, I just purchased another DTG1 for parts. There is no fast idle lever on either. So, guess one is not needed? (Thanks Merle) I am restoring a 1949 Dodge B1C. My local engine machine shop has a complete rebuit 230, which would replace the 218 I now have in it. The 1949 has a standard 3 on the floor. The 1950 B2B donor truck I just finished dismantling had a 218 with a fluid drive, which meant it had the DTG1 Carb. Would I be better installing the fluid drive on the 1949 or stay with the standard 3-speed manual? Thoughts? I am going to rebuild the differential next. Who manufactured the rear ends in the 49 Chrysler, Dana, or some one else? Andy Bernbaum has the parts I need to do the rebuild. They say the parts are different 51-53. Given this truck is 70+ years old and I don't know the history, how do I tell if the rear end is original or where or not it has been replaced with a 51-53 rear end? Thanks

Edited September 26, 2020 by Alan Hensley

[Alan Hensley]

Now I'm confused. Tom, I see your photos have the linkage connected to the lower cam. I also see no linkage is connected to post under the lower lever like the other carb ((D6) see photo) I removed from the '49. Judging by Tom's photo, the fast idle lever connects to the lower cam. I see a spot on the upper cam where it would logically connect. I has a hole with a slot like the one on the D6. Am I correct? Tom, could you give me the dimensions on the lever on your carb please? Perhaps I can manufacture one. Thanks