Dual Carbs on 218

[shedhouselife]

Hello. I just bought a 46 Plymouth Special Deluxe. Moose is making a one-piece intake/exhaust for my 218. Can anybody walk me through the 2x1 setup? What about vacuum advance? Or a custom linkage? A dual point distributor, or electric ignition? All suggestions are appreciated in advance!

[meezy]

The one thing I can confidently chime in on is the Pertronix igniter. I installed mine a few years ago - good riddance points, condensers, etc... runs like a top.

[Ajgkirkwood]

Hi I’m new to this myself but I just built my own 3x1 set up. I have my carbs rotated 90 degrees from what stock was. Doing this made it easy to run my fuel lines And my throttle linkage. How my throttle linkage works is kinda like this. On the carbs is a bracket on the carb for the throttle linkage to connect to. There’s an upper hole and one lower. I have an aluminum rod that runs The length to all 3 carbs and they screw into the side of the rod through the upper hole on the bracket I mentioned earlier. All 3 are tied together and when I pull the aluminum rod towards the firewall, all 3 open up equally. Connected to that rod is my throttle cable (kinda like a bicycle brake cable). In this direction the carbs fuel line points towards the main block. I run my fuel line up along next to the carbs and they are “T”Ed off to each carb. For my choke I ground down the brass that’s flatted down to hold the choke brackets on, I have a steel rod with a set screw holding it down link to each carbs choke so when I pull on the choke on the carb closest to the firewall, it opens/closes all 3. I can get pictures

[Don Coatney]

 

 

 

[shedhouselife]

17 hours ago, meezy said:

The one thing I can confidently chime in on is the Pertronix igniter. I installed mine a few years ago - good riddance points, condensers, etc... runs like a top.

Ok I will get one! Which model do you recommend?

[shedhouselife]

17 hours ago, Ajgkirkwood said:

Hi I’m new to this myself but I just built my own 3x1 set up. I have my carbs rotated 90 degrees from what stock was. Doing this made it easy to run my fuel lines And my throttle linkage. How my throttle linkage works is kinda like this. On the carbs is a bracket on the carb for the throttle linkage to connect to. There’s an upper hole and one lower. I have an aluminum rod that runs The length to all 3 carbs and they screw into the side of the rod through the upper hole on the bracket I mentioned earlier. All 3 are tied together and when I pull the aluminum rod towards the firewall, all 3 open up equally. Connected to that rod is my throttle cable (kinda like a bicycle brake cable). In this direction the carbs fuel line points towards the main block. I run my fuel line up along next to the carbs and they are “T”Ed off to each carb. For my choke I ground down the brass that’s flatted down to hold the choke brackets on, I have a steel rod with a set screw holding it down link to each carbs choke so when I pull on the choke on the carb closest to the firewall, it opens/closes all 3. I can get pictures

Pictures please!

[shedhouselife]

16 hours ago, Don Coatney said:

 

 

 

That is cool!

[Plymouthy Adams]

2 minutes ago, shedhouselife said:

Ok I will get one! Which model do you recommend?

don't risk getting the wrong part...go to their website  or call them direct....the man making the recommendation has a model car different than yours.  He could well have converted to 12 volt and you still 6V positive ground...correct data given is the only assurance of correct module.  The distributors could be different...even going with the book for your year does not guarantee a previous owner swapped the distributor somewhere in the past.  Ordering of the module or ANY STOCK part requires you identify you distributor as IGS, IAT OR IGS unit...

[meezy]

4 minutes ago, shedhouselife said:

Ok I will get one! Which model do you recommend?

You really should call them directly to verify, but the one that fit my 1950 Plymouth was model 1362:

 https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=pertronix+1362&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=267970161574&hvpos=1t2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17205465718247551406&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004347&hvtargid=kwd-296340839009&ref=pd_sl_74d9prxr1m_e

[meezy]

2 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

don't risk getting the wrong part...go to their website  or call them direct....the man making the recommendation has a model car different than yours.  He could well have converted to 12 volt and you still 6V positive ground...correct data given is the only assurance of correct module.  The distributors could be different...even going with the book for your year does not guarantee a previous owner swapped the distributor somewhere in the past.  Ordering of the module or ANY STOCK part requires you identify you distributor as IGS, IAT OR IGS unit...

He's right - mine is converted to 12v.

[Adam H P15 D30]

Just a suggestion. If you plan on staying 6v, stick with the points. If 12v is your plan look up the slant 6 distributor swap. Keep the Pertronix for the trailer cars or carry an extra module and tools in your glove box. 

 

Adam

[rallyace]

I would stay away from Pertronix right now. Too many war stories of the new units failing. Check on some of the British car forums and you will find many folks who have had issues, me included. It started about 4 years ago when Pertronix changed the company that was making their modules.  Just my two cents worth.

[Dartgame]

I have not installed mine yet, too much other stuff to do right now, but you could do the slant six electronic distributor swap. Do a search it should show up from a member named thrashing cows (I think). What you would need is a slant six distributor that you mix and match parts with a flat head dist. You end up with a pointless electronic mopar distributor and can use a standard mopar  ignition box. I have not installed mine, but plan on using a GM HEI module and a Ford style coil = lots of spark energy .

Edited September 24, 2018 by Dartgame

[Adam H P15 D30]

Yes, Dartgame is correct.  Seems I've posted this link a lot lately but Thrashingcows did an excellent write-up on the Slant 6 distributor mod.  I'll keep posting the link if it saves someone the Pertronix misery a good number of people have gone through.  Keep in mind 12v is a MUST.

I also perfer and used the GM HEI module from the 70's era vehicle attached to a heat sink from a late 90's blazer/K1500 seen on the right side of the picture below.  Don't mind the 6v regulator in the picture, I use it to house my relays (horn, ign, fan) The car is 12v.

 

I am still using a Pertronix 1.5 ohm coil I was given from a friend that gave up on the Pertronix after a few modules left him stranded.  I have thought about going to an E-core .3 ohm coil I have for hotter spark but I've been warned it may become too much for the Slant 6 cap/rotor to handle but I have no proof.

The MOPAR ignition boxes are troublesome.  NOS ones are either no good or non existent and the replacements are overseas specials plus you still have the troublesome resistors and a weaker spark than the GM unit.

 

Thrashingcow's write up and pictures should be in the Tech section....

 

Adam

 

Edited September 24, 2018 by Adam H P15 D30

[Adam H P15 D30]

In Thrashingcows' write up, he ended up using the Slant 6 distributor gear as a spacer.  Probably because the Flathead retainer broke.  I was able to get my roll pin out and reuse the Flathead retainer and it all went back together with correct end-play and no additional holes drilled in the shaft.

[shedhouselife]

On 9/22/2018 at 3:33 PM, Adam H P15 D30 said:

Just a suggestion. If you plan on staying 6v, stick with the points. If 12v is your plan look up the slant 6 distributor swap. Keep the Pertronix for the trailer cars or carry an extra module and tools in your glove box. 

 

Adam

Hi Adam. I am planning to stay 6v. 

[Adam H P15 D30]

6 hours ago, shedhouselife said:

Hi Adam. I am planning to stay 6v. 

Your best bet is to keep the point ignition instead of Pertronix.  Nothing wrong with points and if you have issues with your stock distributor such as a bad vacuum advance or worn bushings, you can still do the slant 6 mod just use a point distributor instead of an electronic.

 

Adam

[shedhouselife]

On ‎9‎/‎21‎/‎2018 at 5:35 PM, Don Coatney said:

 

 

 

looks nice. do the dual points eat up condensers?

[moose]

On ‎9‎/‎21‎/‎2018 at 7:58 PM, shedhouselife said:

Hello. I just bought a 46 Plymouth Special Deluxe. Moose is making a one-piece intake/exhaust for my 218. Can anybody walk me through the 2x1 setup? What about vacuum advance? Or a custom linkage? A dual point distributor, or electric ignition? All suggestions are appreciated in advance!

 

Here's his manifold, still working on the linkage.

[Don Coatney]

2 minutes ago, shedhouselife said:

looks nice. do the dual points eat up condensers?

 

 

No more than single points in my experience. 

[shedhouselife]

9 hours ago, Adam H P15 D30 said:

Your best bet is to keep the point ignition instead of Pertronix.  Nothing wrong with points and if you have issues with your stock distributor such as a bad vacuum advance or worn bushings, you can still do the slant 6 mod just use a point distributor instead of an electronic.

 

Adam

Hey Adam. What about a dual single carb setup? Do I have to change the distributor much? Like what? Thanks man.

[shedhouselife]

1 minute ago, Don Coatney said:

 

 

No more than single points in my experience. 

Cool. Are they necessary for dual single carbs?

[Plymouthy Adams]

they are necessary for hotter spark as the purpose is the give additional time for coil saturation...

[shedhouselife]

1 minute ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

they are necessary for hotter spark as the purpose is the give additional time for coil saturation...

Cool, thanks. Is the stock distributor usable with a kit for dual points, or is there a better distributor you'd recommend?

[Plymouthy Adams]

are you planning running your engine upwards of 3600 RPM on a daily or continuous basis...?