Radiator swap question re P15

[BobT-47P15]

Well, I just called my local radiator repair shop to see how they were progressing on possibly repairing my P15 rad.

 

The answer was that he could not make an effective repair due to old age and condition of that radiator.

I had also taken him a rad I bought at a swap meet.....from a 50  or 51 (supposedly) Plymouth.  Shape and

size are real close to the P15, but, about half an inch taller (or longer, whichever you prefer to call it).  He says

he can switch my top and bottom tanks over to the newer one, and make it such that the additional half inch 

is at the bottom.   My question is:  is there enough space at the bottom to accommodate that extra half inch??

 

Anyone have a thought on this?  Told the man I would check here for opinions then get back to him.

I would prefer not to get a nice, shiny, new aluminum radiator as they look out of place in an original car.

As far as I know, you are not supposed to paint those aluminum rads to make them black like original.

Or, I could get a new old style core for about $450.  

 

Any opinions/thoughts appreciated.

[Plymouthy Adams]

well, you did not weigh in on the estimate cost from the radiator shop....and on top of that have you truly considered the long term use of a radiator that is as old as the one you wishing to modify...bounce all this, include aggravation, labor and travel.....and find yet another source for new...seems the one you looking at is a bit high compared to the ones that folks on here are using for upgrade.

[The Oil Soup]

Here is a source for a new radiator. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw='47+plymouth+radiator&_sacat=0&Brand=Unbranded&_dcat=6028

I have this same rad in my truck because of the configuration of the filler and it works fine and if you don't like the color that can be darkened chemically without effecting heat exchange. I don't think painting aluminum is any more detrimental than painting brass.

[Adam H P15 D30]

If you want a brass radiator, Walker is about the best out there. http://www.walkerradiatorworks.com/Radiator-Engine-Cooling-Products/Radiator_Details.asp?rID=603&rY=1942,1943,1944,1945,1946,1947,1948&rM=Plymouth

 

[DJ194950]

1 hour ago, BobT-47P15 said:

Well, I just called my local radiator repair shop to see how they were progressing on possibly repairing my P15 rad.

 

The answer was that he could not make an effective repair due to old age and condition of that radiator.

I had also taken him a rad I bought at a swap meet.....from a 50  or 51 (supposedly) Plymouth.  Shape and

size are real close to the P15, but, about half an inch taller (or longer, whichever you prefer to call it).  He says

he can switch my top and bottom tanks over to the newer one, and make it such that the additional half inch 

is at the bottom.   My question is:  is there enough space at the bottom to accommodate that extra half inch??

 

Anyone have a thought on this?  Told the man I would check here for opinions then get back to him.

I would prefer not to get a nice, shiny, new aluminum radiator as they look out of place in an original car.

As far as I know, you are not supposed to paint those aluminum rads to make them black like original.

Or, I could get a new old style core for about $450.  

 

Any opinions/thoughts appreciated.

 Be aware most of these cheaper radiators may work fine but the top inlet is Most often set at the wrong angle to connect the hose, IE almost 90 degree down which should be more like 45 degrees (or so) . I tried one of these and had to cut off the neck to where it was still 90 degree and work down to the engine from there.

 

Seems Don C. had the same problem years ago and had a post about this and his work - around. Not a big-big deal but the stock top hose will not work!

Per all the Ebay pics they Mostly seem to have the same issues.

 

Also check the warranty length and reputation and location of seller- Buyer Beware.

 

Otherwise they are OK and can be blacked with a Radiator black spray, not just flat black.

 

DJ

[BobT-47P15]

Here's another one found on ebay......from "direct_tuningpart"  in walton, ky for $209.00.....4 row  aluminum, already painted black.

Link............

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Row-Aluminum-Radiator-for-1941-1945-1942-1943-1944-Plymouth-Concord-P15-L6-Gas/222972247865?hash=item33ea2e7f39:g:w9QAAOSwOYFabpjx

 

Funny thing......both this company and the one sent by Oil Soup (Parts 4 Less) are both located in Walton, KY.

 

Is four row a lot better than 3 row.......or not much difference.?

 

Tim.....I had the radiator guy look at the spare rad.....his first report was that it seems pretty good, except the bottom

tank has a leak needing re-soldered.  But, yes, it is nearly as old as the first one.   So, a new one is beginning to look

better and some of the ebay prices are less than the estimated $450 cost of a new core.  I don't think that included

adding tanks, etc.  I think Don Coatney took a saw to his top neck to change the angle.  However, I think another fellow

or two called the maker who obliged them by making a neck with the proper old Mopar angle.  So, before buying, I would

try to contact the seller (or maker, whichever) to talk about that situation.  

 

Thanks guys......keep those cards and letters coming.........       Bob 

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

the number of rows, the spacing etc and the fins that the tubes run though make up the SKIN of the cooling surface..t5heory, the more rows and amount of skin the better the heat transfer....but remember, optimum transfer only takes place when the water is exchanged in the radiator at the proper flow rate...

[BobT-47P15]

I would guess, Tim, that the water flow in an engine supposedly rebuilt probably 20 or more years ago is not at it's

maximum capacity......given corrosion and crud, plus maybe an original 1957 water distribution  tube.       So, with

an older engine such as mine, which number of rows would seem to be best.   I may be having a spare 218 engine

overhauled in the next few months, which would then be working with the new rad if purchased.  

 

Not sure how to determine if the seller is a good person......maybe i can look for reviews on the internet.....or maybe

not if the ebay name is different from their regular business name.

 

I will try to go to the local radiator shop Tuesday and take some pictures and get measurements of the core as

well as the frame width, etc.   So I will have a better info to compare with anything a rad seller says.  And I will try to get a phone number or email for the sellers so I can talk to them about the angle of the upper neck.  

Edited June 19, 2018 by BobT-47P15

[Don Coatney]

Bob; With any new aluminum core radiator irreverent of 3-4 rows the cooling efficiency will be noticeably increased over the 70 year old honeycomb style radiator. Yes the new radiator will look like a new radiator even with the application of semi gloss paint. The curvature of the top neck is minor compared to the piece of mind that comes knowing that with the new radiator you have one less thing to worry about failing on road trips.amd your engine will run much cooler. Buy it, install it, and live happily ever after. 

[BobT-47P15]

Hi Don.   My thinking is just about there.  I sent an email to one or two vendors inquiring if they could produce a

rad with a 45 degree angle neck.  Will see what they say (or don't say).   Did you get your new rad from Champion?

[Don Coatney]

[The Oil Soup]

Mine is a Champion that I took the hacksaw to the top tube and removed that down angled inlet. It is slightly smaller than my stock rad and works better. The one they had listed for the B4B has the filler centered on the tank where it would be difficult or impossible to work with because of the split hood on the truck. Champion # CC 4749

[Don Coatney]

59 minutes ago, The Oil Soup said:

Mine is a Champion that I took the hacksaw to the top tube and removed that down angled inlet. It is slightly smaller than my stock rad and works better. The one they had listed for the B4B has the filler centered on the tank where it would be difficult or impossible to work with because of the split hood on the truck. Champion # CC 4749

 

 

CC 4749 is the same Champion radiator I used. Aside from the top hose connection it is a direct bolt in on my P-15. 

 

Jeggs auto $227.99 free shipping  

[BobT-47P15]

Don.....at about the same time you were installing your new radiator......I think I recall some other forum member

said he called and talked to the people at Champion, who then made him a rad with a 45 degree upper neck, similar

to original.    Do you remember this?

[Don Coatney]

5 hours ago, BobT-47P15 said:

Don.....at about the same time you were installing your new radiator......I think I recall some other forum member

said he called and talked to the people at Champion, who then made him a rad with a 45 degree upper neck, similar

to original.    Do you remember this?

I do not recall this. However I if I  recall this correctly I did call them to discuss replacement radiator cap with a lower pressure range and they as well as forum member rock head pointe me in the right direction.

[BobT-47P15]

Don.....What did you do in relation to the water pressure, as these old rads are zero pressure caps and have a unique

overflow system?

[Don Coatney]

2 hours ago, BobT-47P15 said:

Don.....What did you do in relation to the water pressure, as these old rads are zero pressure caps and have a unique

overflow system?

 

On 6/26/2014 at 4:36 PM, Don Coatney said:

 I called Champion for a recommendation and they did some research and called me back a few minutes ago. They told me a NAPA 703-1412 rated at 4# was the cap I needed. They said they had this cap in there shop and it does fit there radiators. They also told me they plugged this number into the NAPA website and it is a good number. I do recommend Champion Radiators as there customer service is top notch.

[BobT-47P15]

This afternoon I called the folks at Ledfoot Racing who sell Champion Radiators (in California).....and ordered one.

Am getting the same model number....cc4749, but they say I will have to go purchase my own 4# rad cap at NAPA.

I also requested replacing the 90 degree angle inlet on the top tank with a 45 degree one.....for an additional cost of

$80 to make the change....so I won't have to go find the hacksaw and try to cut a straight line and all that fun stuff.

  The radiator is currently on sale for $204.98, modification $80, and shipping $29.95 for a total of $314.93.  

My radiator guy says you can paint these rads with regular black paint  from Wal Mart or wherever and it's ok.

Thanks for the input fellows.   

 

[BobT-47P15]

I received the official invoice from Ledfoot Racing for the new Champion radiator.  They are charging me the

$204.98 for the rad plus $29.95 shipping....... $234.93     No charge for any change to the inlet neck.....which 

the fellow said apparently is already the requested angle.   We will see when the radiator arrives.  I even sent

the rep pictures of my old original radiator to illustrate the angle of the tube.....etc.  Will report again upon

receipt of the item.  

[BobT-47P15]

Now awaiting arrival of the new radiator......looks like Fed ex will be delivering.  

 

[BobT-47P15]

Just called my local NAPA store.......who said......yes, we can order that radiator cap (703-1412. 4# rating) and it will be here tomorrow (Thurs).  

Cost will be $6.29 plus sales tax.  

Works for me.

[BobT-47P15]

The new radiator arrived this afternoon........with damage to the box but no apparent damage to the radiator.

The neck on the upper tank is at 90 degrees....not 45.  So I will either have to get out the old hacksaw or maybe

take it to a local welding shop to cut off.  I am going to ask the welding place if they can make brackets to attach

those little metal fins that were on top of the original radiator.  Will take old radiator to show and tell.   Will

paint it black to match rest of the stuff under the hood.  What cooling power is lost due to paint should not

make a large difference.....for no more than the car gets driven.  Always something fun to do......... 

[DJ194950]

Unfortunately after all these years Champion cannot or will not correct this angle issue. Too bad!  ?

Otherwise I like their products.

[BobT-47P15]

The rep first said they could change the neck for a fee of an additional $80.......to which I said OK, do it.

 

Then he came back saying we won't need to pay that.....it should be all right.....whatever that exactly meant 

I don't know.     So, it has the standard 90 degree neck......they did say that if I cut it off to make it straight, it

would not void the warranty.    Ah well.....i was trying to avoid having to go to the trouble of changing that neck.  

[Merle Coggins]

If he assured you that it would be right, so you wouldn’t have to pay extra to Make it Right, I would be contacting him with pictures about how it’s NOT right. And give him a chance to Make It Right.