Rebuilding A Water Pump

[rallyace]

I am rebuilding a 218 CI engine for my 51 P-23.  Has anyone had any experience rebuilding a water pumps?  Bernbaum's has a rebuild kit. Is it worth it or an extremely difficult venture.

Thanks.

[busycoupe]

I have not rebuilt one, but new pumps with sealed bearings are available from Rock Auto and big box auto parts stores.  I would check those before buying the kit. rock auto has a Gates pump to fit your car for $34.79 and it has a lifetime warrranty.

Edited May 21, 2018 by busycoupe

[Merle Coggins]

When I rebuilt my engine I got one of Bernbaum's kits and rebuilt my water pump. There's a blind pin that retains the bushing that must be extracted before pressing it apart. This is a real bugger, but if not done you will break the housing. After all that it leaked out the shaft. Apparently the new seal didn't seat properly. I then went and purchased a new one and it's been good ever since.

 

Save yourself the agony and just buy a new one.

[tom'sB2B]

This might or might not help.

[busycoupe]

Tom, what is your point? Is the new pump different from the old? Will it fit OK or not fit?  The box says “made in China” is this a problem? Explain please?

[tom'sB2B]

No point being made. This is the Gates pump from rock auto that you mentioned. It matches the original pump. I have no input as to its quality or where it is made.

[desoto1939]

Update:  Look at the two pumps that were pictured they are different in the bodies.  On the old one at approximately 2 o-colck njotice how thin the body of the wp is and on the newer pump at the same point the body is thicker.  If you have the older style pump on your car or truck and there are three threaded studs that have three nuts to hold the Wp onto the fron of the block the newer pump will not work. because of the thicker body the stud will not stickout of the body to use the nut to hold the pump onto the block.  They do supply a bolt with a hex head  that is long enouht to thread into the block but you will need to use a stud puller to remove the short threaded rod prior to moutnign the newer pump.

 

As how I know becsue I had the same issue with my 39 Desoto and my 39 used the smaller body thickness at the bolt hole at the 2 o-clock position.  To rebuild a WP there are special tools that pull the bushing and also face the insde of the bearing. Also with the oiriginal pumps they use brass bushings and the newer pumps now used the sealed metal bushing and makes for a better pump but beaware of the issue with the bolt hole.

 

If you have any questions call me  cell 484-431-8157

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

[rallyace]

Thanks all. I appreciate the input.

[desoto1939]

On 5/21/2018 at 1:27 PM, tom'sB2B said:

No point being made. This is the Gates pump from rock auto that you mentioned. It matches the original pump. I have no input as to its quality or where it is made.

Tom'sB2B:

 

Tom look at the two water pumps the bodies on eachone is different also note the bolt arounf the 2 o-clockposition and the extra thickness in the body at the two o-clockposition. if you have the studs then the studs inthe 2 oclock position would have to be pulled and thenyou woud have to use the bolt to hold this part onto the engine block.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

[Andydodge]

Years ago when I first bought and started to restore my 1940 Dodge sedan I did battle a few times with the mongrel original water pumps and their bastard stepson the water pump repair kit........back then these had a fibre washer the continually broke and were the bane of my existence, I would expect they are the same today.......I ended up hotrodding the car in 1973 with a 318 Poly and still have the car so that was one way to get around those repair kits I suppose...........lol...............when I purchased a 1941 Plymouth in 2007 I needed a new water pump and obtained one of the updated Gates versions.......yes I had to change that stud to a bolt but the new water pump has the circular impeller that is much more effecient that the 2 eared original plus it has a proper sealed bearing and I had no problems with it...........I wouldn't use a rebuild kit in a pink fit......too many bad memories......lol............my Oz 2 cents worth.................andyd  

[tom'sB2B]

Rich

Thank you for dropping that knowledge. I have yet to use the new Gates pump, it’s for a soon to be rebuilt engine. I went out to the shed tonight and took some measurements and your right.  

 1st photo is of original bolts and bolt that comes with pump

2nd photo is of origianl

pump and bolt

3rd is of new pump and bolt

You will notice that even the new bolt provided is not long enough.

For engines that have studs ( I don’t know what year it changes from studs to bolts) you will have to pull that stud and replace with a bolt.

[tom'sB2B]

Sorry. I couldn’t get the first photo to load

[tom'sB2B]

What is the cut off year for the stud/ bolt

water pump?

[Andydodge]

Guys, don't get me wrong but its really not such a big deal to swap the short stud for either a longer one or to use a longer bolt and notwithstanding the fact that the newer pump is made in China, the fact that the new pump has a much improved design for the impeller surely makes it a worthwhile addition..............maybe I'm looking at this from a hotrodders perspective..........lol.........but I understand if you are chasing points for originality..........lol...............andyd  

[desoto1939]

18 hours ago, tom'sB2B said:

What is the cut off year for the stud/ bolt

water pump?

I think it might be around 46 but not sure on this question. I am glad that youunderstood the point that I was trying to make.  If the engine is getting a total rebuild then pull the stud and then use the bolt sytle.  My concern is that when tryign to remove the old stud even with a stud remover there isa good possibility that in my case it would breakoff in the engine block.

 

Just passing on knowledge.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com