Flatie46 Posted January 18, 2018 Report Posted January 18, 2018 1 hour ago, Krystalrain said: Got the passenger hood open after soaking all night, 4/6 plugs broke free with no problem, 1 still froze (soaking), and 1 disintegrated leaving the threads in the head That sucks about that one plug. Probably better start soaking the head bolts. 1 Quote
Bingster Posted January 18, 2018 Report Posted January 18, 2018 That has basically the same body as my '47 S-11. I like that grille. But don't do what I did. In my excitement I removed a lot of stuff without taking a lot of photos and labeling a lot of parts. I've got most of it figured out but it's been a hassle. It might also be a good thing to buy a cheap little recorder and explain when you removed things and where they're located and any little trick getting them off. I haven't done it myself, but it might be a good thing for both of us! 1 Quote
Krystalrain Posted January 18, 2018 Author Report Posted January 18, 2018 2 hours ago, Flatie46 said: That sucks about that one plug. Probably better start soaking the head bolts. Lol, already have Quote
Krystalrain Posted January 18, 2018 Author Report Posted January 18, 2018 41 minutes ago, Bingster said: That has basically the same body as my '47 S-11. I like that grille. But don't do what I did. In my excitement I removed a lot of stuff without taking a lot of photos and labeling a lot of parts. I've got most of it figured out but it's been a hassle. It might also be a good thing to buy a cheap little recorder and explain when you removed things and where they're located and any little trick getting them off. I haven't done it myself, but it might be a good thing for both of us! I have been taking a lot of pictures along the way, of course all to big to post here without editing first but I’ll post what I can Quote
Krystalrain Posted January 18, 2018 Author Report Posted January 18, 2018 i got all pistons soaking with Marvel mystery oil. Still have number 3 with threads in the hole from the broken plug. I think im just going to pull the engine and do a full rebuild at this point. If I need to pull the head off anyway I may as well keep going. Any thoughs? Quote
Lloyd Posted January 18, 2018 Report Posted January 18, 2018 Congratulations on your car. It will make a great ride. Where did the plug snap off? Above or below the hex nut?? If below you may be able to use an easy out. Get the square kind not the spiral, one that will fit and make certain the piston is down. plenty of penetrating oil. Some pics of the broken plug?? 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 18, 2018 Report Posted January 18, 2018 just so you know............JIM DANDY TO THE RESCUE........GO JIM DANDY https://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images;_ylt=A0LEV03SEmFamIkA55FXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTB0N2Noc21lBGNvbG8DYmYxBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDBHNlYwNwaXZz?p=jim+dandy+torch&fr2=piv-web&fr=opensearch#id=31&iurl=http%3A%2F%2Fimg1.etsystatic.com%2F061%2F0%2F10577789%2Fil_340x270.750829905_gfar.jpg&action=close 1 Quote
Krystalrain Posted January 18, 2018 Author Report Posted January 18, 2018 27 minutes ago, Lloyd said: Congratulations on your car. It will make a great ride. Where did the plug snap off? Above or below the hex nut?? If below you may be able to use an easy out. Get the square kind not the spiral, one that will fit and make certain the piston is down. plenty of penetrating oil. Some pics of the broken plug?? Thank you, it snapped below. Quote
Niel Hoback Posted January 18, 2018 Report Posted January 18, 2018 Well now, that there's sumptin I ain't never seen. 1 Quote
vintage6t Posted January 18, 2018 Report Posted January 18, 2018 1 hour ago, Lloyd said: Congratulations on your car. It will make a great ride. Where did the plug snap off? Above or below the hex nut?? If below you may be able to use an easy out. Get the square kind not the spiral, one that will fit and make certain the piston is down. plenty of penetrating oil. Some pics of the broken plug?? And heat the head around the outside of the hole when trying to extract it as well. The heat will make the hole expand helping to break things loose. 1 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 19, 2018 Report Posted January 19, 2018 use the heat, oxy acetylene will get it cherry red the best...heat it through two cherry red cycles for best results, do not attempt to remove while cherry red..the metal will be too easy to distort...allow it to return to a normal color. the square easy outs are the best and as the plug base in now like a hollow pipe, the square extractor was designed for this application...just take your time...let the heat and the tool do the work... 1 1 Quote
Mike36 Posted January 19, 2018 Report Posted January 19, 2018 Several penetrating oils better than wd40. Pb blaster and JB80 are two. For your pistons, mix in some acetone. Will thin the MMO and allow it to soak in better. 1 Quote
Mike36 Posted January 19, 2018 Report Posted January 19, 2018 4 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said: use the heat, oxy acetylene will get it cherry red the best...heat it through two cherry red cycles for best results, do not attempt to remove while cherry red..the metal will be too easy to distort...allow it to return to a normal color. the square easy outs are the best and as the plug base in now like a hollow pipe, the square extractor was designed for this application...just take your time...let the heat and the tool do the work... And yet another good tip from Tim DANDY, Go Tim Dandy! 1 Quote
Krystalrain Posted January 19, 2018 Author Report Posted January 19, 2018 1 hour ago, vintage6t said: And heat the head around the outside of the hole when trying to extract it as well. The heat will make the hole expand helping to break things loose. Best I got is a propane torch so going to have to wait a while. PB blaster is always better but it’s burrued in my garage. We just moved back to Washington and half of our stuff is still in boxes in the garage. Quote
Mike36 Posted January 19, 2018 Report Posted January 19, 2018 2 minutes ago, Krystalrain said: Best I got is a propane torch so going to have to wait a while. PB blaster is always better but it’s burrued in my garage. We just moved back to Washington and half of our stuff is still in boxes in the garage. Oh no! Do you realize you own things you will never see again? 1 Quote
palmersparts Posted January 19, 2018 Report Posted January 19, 2018 boy this looks familiar i have 2 broke off the same way in my 218 i havent pulled the others yet i cleaned around them and put some saok on em.. i may have 6 broke the same way in the end... let us know how it works out 1 Quote
Vin's 49 Plymouth Posted January 19, 2018 Report Posted January 19, 2018 This looks like the poor dodge had been sitting in the weather for a long time. Time for the Navy/ Marine Corps corrosion control manual! My experience with these metals tells me that heat is not going to do much, other than change the hardness. So I recommend (for the broken plug) easy-out and let it crumble so you can dig it out with a scribe. The rest of the motor use an impact socket with a breaker bar (very very slowly) so you can feel the threads and bolt twist. I learned my lesson with my P15, that being patient is important, but I got too excited to get the damn thing apart. 1 Quote
Flatie46 Posted January 20, 2018 Report Posted January 20, 2018 9 hours ago, Vin's 49 Plymouth said: This looks like the poor dodge had been sitting in the weather for a long time. Time for the Navy/ Marine Corps corrosion control manual! My experience with these metals tells me that heat is not going to do much, other than change the hardness. So I recommend (for the broken plug) easy-out and let it crumble so you can dig it out with a scribe. The rest of the motor use an impact socket with a breaker bar (very very slowly) so you can feel the threads and bolt twist. I learned my lesson with my P15, that being patient is important, but I got too excited to get the damn thing apart. If all it took for you to change the hardness is heat the company I work for wouldn't waste the time and money on quench oil and Polymer. I use heat to remove rusted and stubborn bolts on a fairly regular basis with no problems. Using the heat will cause the metal to expand and contract ( heat cycle ) breaking the bond of the rust. 1 Quote
Gregarious13 Posted January 20, 2018 Report Posted January 20, 2018 Too much heat can aneal a heat treated steel but I doubt the cylinder head has any heat treat anyway. After all it's cast iron, is it not? Greg 1 Quote
Flatie46 Posted January 20, 2018 Report Posted January 20, 2018 22 minutes ago, Gregarious13 said: Too much heat can aneal a heat treated steel but I doubt the cylinder head has any heat treat anyway. After all it's cast iron, is it not? Greg Well how much are we calling too much? Most of the annealing processes I've seen are for stress relieving where you "cook the metal or parts " and let them cool slowly allowing the molecules to "relax". In my opinon if you heat that broken plug red and let it cool then try to remove it your not going to hurt anything. The head is cast iron. Trust me it's seen a lot of heat it it's time. They say cast iron is for cooking anyway. lol 1 Quote
Gregarious13 Posted January 20, 2018 Report Posted January 20, 2018 All it takes to ruin the hardening of steel is about 1000 degrees. You can affectively remove the hardening from a cold chisel when grinding it too long and allowing it to get too hot. But I agree, there is nothing to hurt when heating the cylinder head or or a spark plugs. If cast iron is for cooking, should we run bacon grease in the crankcase? Ha! Greg 1 Quote
Krystalrain Posted January 21, 2018 Author Report Posted January 21, 2018 A couple days of MMO and vacuumed out the plug holes, I’m able to turn the motor by hand. All the linkage from carb to gas pedal is broke free and am able to control the carb inside the cab with the pedal and throttle knob. I still got to get that broke plug out but am doing what I can. 1 Quote
classiccarjack Posted January 22, 2018 Report Posted January 22, 2018 Keep at it, you will get that broken plug out eventually. Can't wait to see you get it running. 1 Quote
Vin's 49 Plymouth Posted January 22, 2018 Report Posted January 22, 2018 On 1/17/2018 at 2:50 PM, Krystalrain said: I got the passenger side hood hinges soaking in WD-40 because it won’t open. The plugs are also soaking. Once I get the other hood open I’ll pull the plugs out and put the light oil in the cylinders. Yea all the upholstery is shot. aside from color matching, should I save any of it for any reason? If you are going to recover your seat in the original wool as I did, you will need a pattern. The top stitches from the 40's are a bit tricky to learn. also the arm rests in back are very important to keep. 1 Quote
Krystalrain Posted January 23, 2018 Author Report Posted January 23, 2018 4 hours ago, Vin's 49 Plymouth said: If you are going to recover your seat in the original wool as I did, you will need a pattern. The top stitches from the 40's are a bit tricky to learn. also the arm rests in back are very important to keep. I’m leaning towards a more creative and updated interior. I’m keeping the foam and batting from the seats, the armrests will be redone more plush and door panels will match the seat colors with original accents and a touch of hardwood 1 Quote
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