New 1950 dodge Truck to me

[5027 steve]

THANKS FOR THE RESPONSE GUYS !!¡ Info will definitely help today .......

[5027 steve]

Any sources out there for our door latches???? Pulled our regulators and door latches out and the driver's side latch is completely toast ......had a screen door spring holding it together....Thanks as always...Steve

[5027 steve]

I guess I still don't understand the search function,I tried "timing" " engine timing" couldn't find anything....Need instructions on timing my rebuilt 218, service book is very generic as how to do it .....Thanks 

[ggdad1951]

22 hours ago, 5027 steve said:

Any sources out there for our door latches???? Pulled our regulators and door latches out and the driver's side latch is completely toast ......had a screen door spring holding it together....Thanks as always...Steve

 you talking about the stepped catch that screws to the B pillar?  Or the inner door mechanism?  No repops I know if, try a post in the classifieds section and see if someone has a spare.

[Merle Coggins]

Steve,

Are you looking for a procedure to static time your distributor for initial startup, or or for dynamic ignition timing with a running engine and a timing light? 

 

For static timing you need a test light to connect to the wire that connects the coil to the side of the distributor. Set the engine so that the proper timing mark aligns with the pointer. Then, with the key ON, adjust your distributor back and forth until the test light just lights up. At this position the points have just opened, and this is where the coil would fire high voltage through the ignition cables. Lock it down, install the rotor and cap, and see if it will fire up.

Here's a good web site that also describes it. https://auto.howstuffworks.com/how-to-static-time-engine2.htm

 

For dynamic timing I recommend a good timing light. I also like to use white-out, or similar, to mark the timing mark on my pulley so that it's easier to see. Connect the timing light per it's instructions. Then get the engine running at the lowest possible RPM. Disconnect the timing advance vacuum hose and cap it. Loosen the distributor clamp bolt just enough so that you can rotate the distributor, but not that it turns too easy. Then CAREFULLY hold the timing light so that the light flashes on the timing marks. CAUTION!!! You will be working closely to a spinning fan!! Adjust the distributor so that your timing mark lines up with the pointer, then tighten the clamp bolt.

 

Some like to use a vacuum gauge for ignition timing, but I've always relied on my trusty timing light and it's never steered me wrong.

[5027 steve]

3 hours ago, Merle Coggins said:

Steve,

Are you looking for a procedure to static time your distributor for initial startup, or or for dynamic ignition timing with a running engine and a timing light? 

 

For static timing you need a test light to connect to the wire that connects the coil to the side of the distributor. Set the engine so that the proper timing mark aligns with the pointer. Then, with the key ON, adjust your distributor back and forth until the test light just lights up. At this position the points have just opened, and this is where the coil would fire high voltage through the ignition cables. Lock it down, install the rotor and cap, and see if it will fire up.

Here's a good web site that also describes it. https://auto.howstuffworks.com/how-to-static-time-engine2.htm

 

For dynamic timing I recommend a good timing light. I also like to use white-out, or similar, to mark the timing mark on my pulley so that it's easier to see. Connect the timing light per it's instructions. Then get the engine running at the lowest possible RPM. Disconnect the timing advance vacuum hose and cap it. Loosen the distributor clamp bolt just enough so that you can rotate the distributor, but not that it turns too easy. Then CAREFULLY hold the timing light so that the light flashes on the timing marks. CAUTION!!! You will be working closely to a spinning fan!! Adjust the distributor so that your timing mark lines up with the pointer, then tighten the clamp bolt.

 

Some like to use a vacuum gauge for ignition timing, but I've always relied on my trusty timing light and it's never steered me wrong.

Understand 100%.... But why does the book say hook timing light to #6 cylinder???? Asked my engine builder and he said absolutely not hook to number 1 cylinder

[Merle Coggins]

It really doesn't matter. #1 and #6 will give you the same reading on the timing mark since they are pared cylinders. Both are at TDC at the same time. One will be in firing position and one will be about to start the intake stroke. The Mopar engineers seemed to gravitate towards #6 for all timing reference, as indicated by the timing plug in the head, and your reference in the manual.

[5027 steve]

Thank you !!!!! 

[JBNeal]

My guess is that they specify #6 for safety and convenience reasons...servicing further away from the cooling fan and closer to the voltage regulator to get all of the ignition settings done more quickly during tune-ups performed at the dealer or at a mechanic's shop

[Merle Coggins]

You could also put your timing light probe on the high voltage coil wire. It'll make the timing light seem brighter as it will flash 6 times as much. You'll also be able to see your timing marks at 120 degrees off since it'll also be flashing when 2 & 5 are at TDC, and with 3 & 4 at TDC, although that's not really useful.

[Radarsonwheels]

On 10/9/2017 at 7:47 AM, 5027 steve said:

I'm wondering  at one time a compass was  it????

That would make sense. If somebody hung something like keys off it the wear pattern would be below the elbow not above. Maybe one of those bus driver fans?

[5027 steve]

Ok on to the next safety issue....Brakes.....brake  pedal pumps up after 1 stroke ..... thinking it was air we bled and bled and bled some more ....LOL...but pedal still has to be pumped up once or twice to get a solid pedal,when released have to pump again,I'm thinking master cylinder ????? Or should we do a "minor" brake adjustment first ????? The service manual states the adjustment cams for the shoes ,found them right away for the back but dammed if we can find them on the front backing plate ......any info would be appreciated....Thanks Steve

Edited November 18, 2019 by 5027 steve
Spelling

[Merle Coggins]

Adjust the brakes first. When you have too much shoe travel you will get that exact symptom. 

[5027 steve]

1 hour ago, Merle Coggins said:

Adjust the brakes first. When you have too much shoe travel you will get that exact symptom. 

Merle,are the only minor adjustment nuts on the front brakes ,the lower anchor bolts????? We see the rear ones easily but confused on the front shoe adjustment

[Merle Coggins]

The anchor, eccentric,  pins are the Major Adjustments. The cams are 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock are the Minor Adjustments. 

Adjusting the Minor Adjustments will shorten the brake pedal travel. Adjusting the Major Adjustments should only be needed for initial adjustment to ensure full shoe contact. 

[5027 steve]

Are the front hubs/drums as hard to get off as the rears?????? Thanks 

[Merle Coggins]

No. As long as the brake shoes aren’t holding the drum in place you just need to remove the bearing retaining nut and catch the outer bearing, and washer, as you slide the drum/hub off the spindle. 

[5027 steve]

On 11/19/2019 at 5:32 AM, Merle Coggins said:

No. As long as the brake shoes aren’t holding the drum in place you just need to remove the bearing retaining nut and catch the outer bearing, and washer, as you slide the drum/hub off the spindle. 

Thanks Merle--We now have a nice firm brake pedal and don't have to pump it up anymore--Steve

[5027 steve]

Does anyone know if ring and pinion gears are available for our old dodge's ????? Or is the only option is to change out the whole rear end assembly????? Thanks Steve

[5027 steve]

Ok Guys looking for any info on what the best replacement rear end is to use in my 1950 B2b ...Least amount of work to do ...Thanks Steve 

[bkahler]

Just going through this now for my 51 B3B.  I bought a Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.73 axle with disc brakes.  The distance wheel mounting surface (WMS) on my B3B was 62-1/4".  The Jeep axle is 60-1/4".  I purchased wheel spacers to make up the difference on each side.

 

You will need to grind off all of the mounting hardware on the Jeep axle and install spring perches to match the original axle.  After that it bolts into place perfectly.  If your B2b has the Cleveland style of u-joint you will need to find a resolution as to how to connect the driveshaft to the rear axle.  The Jeep axle uses the more modern Spicer u-joint that uses clips on the outside to hold it in place.

 

If your axle already uses the Spicer style u-joint then it will bolt right up to the Jeep axle.

 

If you don't want rear disc brakes there are earlier Jeep axles that will bolt in just like the 1997 axle does.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Brad