Carburetor help

[Blaine]

Hello Everyone,

I have recently put new gaskets on my 218's head and intake/exhaust manifolds. This fixed my vacuum leaks but my Carter W-1 (converted to an electric choke) is now dumping a ton of fuel at idle! I can adjust the idle mixture screw all the way in or out with no help. The throttle plate is set flush with the throttle body and is accurate to the rebuild kit and such. To include the float, accelerator pump and the needle and seat. The idle screw is backed all the way out and no linkage issues are present. The W-1 carb came off a 300 ci ford engine (came with the car) and I believe the carb is just too big in the idle circuit or I'm just missing something. The engine hardly idles correctly and runs extremely rich and dumps fuel out the exhaust with black soot on the ground. I can see the ventury and emulsion tube dripping fuel when giving the throttle and not at idle but when I look down the barrel I can see the idle circuit discharge slot flowing ALOT of fuel. Did I miss something when adjusting the carb?

To include I have the old hot air port sealed with a vacuum port cap. The car will overcome the rich mixture at above 4000 rpm but that's not good and way too high for driving or desire to run the engine at. 

Should I get another carb even though ibrebuilt this one? I'd like to keep the price down below $200 and retain an electric choke setup as I don't have a hot air tube for a stock style choke system. 

Any help would be greatly appreciated guys!

-Blaine

[knuckleharley]

Get the right carb for it and be done with it.  Right away you will have eliminated the problem of having to adjust a carb designed to use on a more efficient design that iss 30 percent larger than your engine.  They are not hard to find or expensive.

When you keep running an engine that runs that rich,you are flooding your base with raw gas,and risk ruining your bearings,and are even risking a base explosion.

 

 

[Mike36]

1 hour ago, knuckleharley said:

Get the right carb for it and be done with it.  Right away you will have eliminated the problem of having to adjust a carb designed to use on a more efficient design that iss 30 percent larger than your engine.  They are not hard to find or expensive.

When you keep running an engine that runs that rich,you are flooding your base with raw gas,and risk ruining your bearings,and are even risking a base explosion.

 

 

Good advice from Knucke H. I would not start that engine again with that carb on it. All that gas is washing the oil off your cylinder walls and causing premature wear that is going to be immensely more expensive to repair than the price of a used Ball& Ball and a rebuild kit. I bought one yesterday at a swap meet for $20. Don't let your mistake turn into a bigger mistake. Get that carb off your engine.

[greg g]

Sounds like a float and or needle and seat problem.  A carb can't flow that much fuel through all of its jets combined. If needle and seat float aren't working the float bowl will over fill and overflow dumping raw gas into the manifold.  Don't run the engineagain without changing the oil. 

[ptwothree]

I would also check the fuel pressure at the carb inlet whether you choose to run a stock carb or the one you already have. 

[DutchEdwin]

Did you open the carb to see if it is clean inside? check the needles for shutting off the openings. If they do not, clean the carb with white spirrit (in dutch it is called thinner, could be the same in english). it removes the fuel gunk easy.

[Fernando Mendes]

Adjust the metering rod all inside metering jet when in idle.

[Fernando Mendes]

 

Chevrolet 1932 with Carter W-1 carburetor.