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Blaine

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Everything posted by Blaine

  1. Hello Everyone, I have recently put new gaskets on my 218's head and intake/exhaust manifolds. This fixed my vacuum leaks but my Carter W-1 (converted to an electric choke) is now dumping a ton of fuel at idle! I can adjust the idle mixture screw all the way in or out with no help. The throttle plate is set flush with the throttle body and is accurate to the rebuild kit and such. To include the float, accelerator pump and the needle and seat. The idle screw is backed all the way out and no linkage issues are present. The W-1 carb came off a 300 ci ford engine (came with the car) and I believe the carb is just too big in the idle circuit or I'm just missing something. The engine hardly idles correctly and runs extremely rich and dumps fuel out the exhaust with black soot on the ground. I can see the ventury and emulsion tube dripping fuel when giving the throttle and not at idle but when I look down the barrel I can see the idle circuit discharge slot flowing ALOT of fuel. Did I miss something when adjusting the carb? To include I have the old hot air port sealed with a vacuum port cap. The car will overcome the rich mixture at above 4000 rpm but that's not good and way too high for driving or desire to run the engine at. Should I get another carb even though ibrebuilt this one? I'd like to keep the price down below $200 and retain an electric choke setup as I don't have a hot air tube for a stock style choke system. Any help would be greatly appreciated guys! -Blaine
  2. I can also agree with you Blueskull88 about being a diverse car guy, if it moves with an engine I like it! Many on this forum appreciate and have an eye for the heritage and history these cars bring (not saying you don't though). If I was in your shoes and looking to make this a one-of-a-kind project, I'd go the fuel injected route. Especially if the car needs a lot of work. If it doesn't and has many original parts and is a fairly good condition then I'd personally work to get it back to close as stock with your own spin off complementing your budget. In the end it not only showcases you as a car guru, but also brings the heart of many to that era to enjoy what it was to own that era specific vehicle. On the other hand if I'm guessing correctly without any pictures I too would like to find a builder and fuel inject it! Personally I'd go the route of a 5.3 turbo Vortec engine. Many block in the yards and plenty of aftermarket goodies to get you well over the horsepower ($3,000 for 1,200HP) for you try and steer in a straight line. These cars are good platforms to muscle up, but going to a car show and seeing the same engine (SBC or variances there of) in everyone else's ride detracts me to do the same. It's your car, enjoy it!, and post pics of the fun!
  3. I'd suspect a worn rod bearing or wrist pin being that your noise is present a lower RPMs and comes in when off of load. Also the build up of oil pressure from a lower pressure into a normal operating range is suspect of parts out of clearance. I would check with what weight oil your using and add what greater weight of oil you can safely run in your temperature region to assist in taking up the greater clearances. The safest way is to drop the oil pan and break out the feeler gauge and manual. (just my 2 cents to start off on)
  4. Cars are looking good Gents! I'm liking the Desoto's roof rack and "bomber" style hints here and there.
  5. BTW, thank you to everyone who has served in the military to make your/our country a better place. Coming from more of the youthful perspective attending this site, what you've done in deeply respected and gratefully appreciated! RAH!
  6. Politics in the military are still in full effect but people these days are not so blatant to express their devious ways. You only find out after the fact most of the time now-days. I'd rather be in the position of finding out later on than being the man with a secret. People are out trying to make crazy money and do crazy (usually illegal) things to get there. I'll pass and just stay in my garage with my car and plan my next build. The military of today is so competitive it'll drive you to choose family or work and the consequences can be harsh for either side and that's not even including the real military life of deployment. I've unfortunately experienced both and have chosen college and family as the pastime to carry me through to my full 20 and do what it takes to make my leaders mostly happy to get there. Hopefully commission some day and make it worth all the time put in.
  7. Hempster, Here's a few pictures of the overall look. Please let me know what you need in more detail and I'll see what I can get.
  8. I'm 28 my Wife is 27, we have two daughters 6 y/o and 3 y/o. We are happy to have our 49' Club Coupe and I intend on keeping it and eventually getting rid of my 2009 Kia Rio in the next 5 years, bringing on in a 57' Bel-Air as my Wife's daily (outside of her driving the 08' Enclave). I firmly believe we have enough old cars in the museums and the rest on the road are ours (including everyone else) to enjoy, drive and keep on the road. I'd like to keep my 49' fairly unmodified except for creature comforts and eventually after I retire form the Navy in 2029, that I'll hopefully get to grab a 40's to mid 50's Plymouth Business Coupe to make my hot rod daily. It will be in need of restoration as I do not want to tear up something close to excellence like many of us work hard to keep.
  9. Hempster, I'll be adding some pictures downloaded from my phone shortly. If you need any detailed specific pictures please do not hesitate to ask and i'll take pictures of what you need on what I have. The car is mostly stock from what I see and have experienced but I have changed a few things...i.e. stereo, speakers, center console, fuse box, plug wires, carb ect. I'll add that to an individual forum later.
  10. Jersey Herald, My 49' is the one with that weird bumper guard.
  11. Really nice and a great job! I need to do the same for the bottom portion of my rocker panels as well.
  12. It'll stay drum in the rear if it performs well up front. The search for an axle at the correct width and bolt pattern for the original wheels are going to be tough if not just completly one off custom for everything to fit right.
  13. Ooops just researched it! 10 lbs risdual valves are for drum to compensate for the spring.
  14. Is ten in the rear for disc or drum set up? I intend on keeping the drums in the rear until I find an axle that'll have disc or convert easily to one. So will that 10 lb inline for the rear be similar or the same of what the M/C had for lbs internally for the rear drums? Thanks PA so far for the good info.
  15. Greetings Everyone, I'm in the process of building my Scarebird front drum to disc conversion kit. In doing so I'd like to use my original M/C as my 49' just doesn't seem to have room for an aftermarket power booster mounted next to the frame and it has wierd angles at the fire wall for a more modern style power booster to be tough to mount. To keep things simple I'd like to use the manual original style M/C but have concerns about if the original style M/C has residual valves inside it's assymbly. I've heard residual vavles are a no no for disc drums and only good for drum type set ups. I expect to also use rubber style hose fittings at the calipers for the front as this supposidly allows the release of braking pressure from the pads. Does anyone know if the guts of these manual M/C have residual valves?, and if so do I just unscrew the large flat bolt at the brake line out portion of the M/C to get to these? I recieve a comment when emailing the Scarebird LLC team and they stated as long as I remove the gront proportioning valves from the M/C I'd be good to go. I just never heard of the proportioning valves residing inside the M/C and only rarely seen them on cars to which they where installed along the line of the brake line near the drum. Thanks Guys! Blaine
  16. Andy, I do believe the upper portion of the bumper was pulled off a later Plymouth or another era vehicle. I would like to say an early 50's Plymouth but I'm not an expert as this era of vehicle is new to me. You can see in the front skirt/panel between the body and bumper that it was hacked through to mount those supports for the upper addition of that bumper. The job could've been done better but it was done before I picked the car up so I'll leave it as is. For the interior and paint they are definitely not OEM. The interior was redone by a gentleman here in San Antonio (original seats but re-springed and upholstered) and the paint was completed by another shop here somewhere in South San Antonio. With the last owner living here in SA with a title dated in 86' I do believe the car has never left Texas or even San Antonio! I have the original plates for the car back from 49' registering the car as a TX vehicle which have been re-conditioned and repainted for that era. They will find a home in an nice wooden and glass box for the trunk here soon. The paint is I believe Cadillac White I think with a paint code of P10?, from the Cadillac dealership here in SA. The previous owner stated he pulled that color specifically off the shelf and added the pearl and medium clear to the mix once he was ready for it to be sprayed. All chrome and modifications have been done here in the inner city so I can't believe it's possibly never traveled or registered out of state before. That legacy will most likely end as I'll change duty stations here in about 2 years and the car will follow. I found the original paint color underneath one of the headlight backings (if its original to the car) that appeared to be light green. MY guess, the car was Kitchener Green prior to paint. I'd have to say though that that pearl and white really sets off the chrome and accents well!
  17. Once a run across a better Air filter (oil based) I convert it. The bracket is there and I'll keep it on it until I find something. A good friend has a pressure washer so I'll make sure and get really well between the cylinder walls and the nooks and crannies. That distribution tube will be interesting but I'm sure I can conquer it over the weekend. The radiator seems to flow well as I ran a high rate of water through it when flushing the system. I'm thinking the water pump is my main culprit at the moment though as the car cools to 160 if on the high way but once in inner city it jumps to 212 in about 10 mins.
  18. Thanks Andy, I've been reading a quite a bit of your posts. Good stuff!
  19. Thanks Mark! Love that convertible in your avatar!
  20. Greetings Everyone, I'd like to introduce myself, I'm Blaine Grandfield and I've recently acquired a 1949 P18 Club Coupe from here in San Antonio. I picked this car up at the first of May and got her back on the road again. Below is what she needed to get running again. and the following list is what I have planned. Please ask away on any questions and I'll get back to them when I can. Please be flexible as I'm in the military ( U.S. Navy) and can get busy at times. Thanks every one for having me and I'm excited to join such avid group of enthusiasts. Fixed list: Brakes: adjustment/ honed rear drums and replaced front lower wheel cylinder, bled system and adjusted the brakes. Engine: replaced the ignition coil for the 12V conversion, installed new points, plugs, rebuilt the carb (it's a YFA 1BB most likely off another donor car of a different branded vehicle but those things came in the plenty), replaced rear crank rope seal-only the lower, replaced rear bearings in the main cap (stock size) as I couldn't use my brain when hammering in the rope seal and unfortunately nicking the bearing while doing so (should've taken it out) but that's afterthought of the mistake and it's fix. Bought complete gasket kit from Summit Racing ($69!) and comes with a Fel-Pro Copper Head Gasket- not yet installed. Replaced the oil pan and fuel pump gaskets as they were leaking. Re-welded the down draft tube back onto it's bracket (it was broken off), installed electric choke on carb. Welded the carb heater valve to it's closed position as it was more of a exhaust leak then of help. I'm in San Antonio, Texas so it doesn't need it anyways. Water hose flushed the old coolant out, Grease ALL the fittings witch are surprisingly many of them haha. Electrical: Converted the rest of the exterior lights and interior lights to 12 volt bulbs including the head lights and also wired the brakes lights to an aftermarket blinker kit to have all the rear lights to work when braking and front for turn signals. Found the original 6V radio is shot so I'll probably buy a refurbished AM unit eventually but they're expensive so I have to save. Installed an aftermarket RPM Gauge to keep tabs on the RPMs at highway cruise speed. Vacuum System: Got the vacuum wipers working again and rebuilt the fuel/vacuum pump with new diaphragms. Cooling: Car has an 160 degree thermostat but still over heats so I installed an electric fan to help the temperature. It still gets hot but I assume its the original water pump as its leaking out the snout behind the belt pulley even after greasing it through it's zerk fitting. To do list: Stop the oil drip from between the cam driven oil pump and the oil pan. I'll try a light coat of Silicone across the entire cork gasket first and see how that does. Possibly replace the rear seal again as it drips occasionally but not much to cry over. I may just leave it be and add a dab of oil every month or so. The Cam driven oil pump gasket area and the rear seal don't leak under hot driving conditions or at idle just when the engine completely cools off and sits for about an hour they pee a bit on my driveway. The rear seal leaks a couple drops and the cam pump (underneath it not the pumps gasket) leaks about as much of a shot glass worth every time I run the engine for over 5 minute or when it gets hot. I believe it may be a pressure related leak about the size of a pinhole that shows up after the block starts to cool down. Convert the front brakes to disc front for safety purposes as I'll have my Wife, 6 & 3 Y/O daughters riding along as much as I can drag them out the house. They're a bunch of vampire light skinned types so they'll need as much sun exposure as possible. I know many here want to keep drum all the way around on their cars/trucks but I'm 27 and don't have the kind of money to throw $160-$245 per drum-hub fronts. I'd rather bite the bullet early and upgrade to something more my era as I'm 27 years old and use to slapping pads on the front and going onward about my day, the rear I can deal with being drum as the drums are fairly priced and easy to tweak to perfection. Seat belts: because Wifey doesn't like it with out them and the girls need them for their car seats. A/C......HA! one day (another Wifey request expensive when looking at Vintage Air A/C and Heater units) Custom glove box (it doesn't have the original panel) with a modern AM/FM Radio because Wifey can't ride anywhere without listening to her I-pod. I am content with listening to the wind and that straight 6! Install the Water Pump from Summit Racing as it's on its way this week. While I'm in there I'm going to dig around inside the water transfer tube with a coat hanger and see if I can dig any crud out. If I do I'll order freeze plugs, pop the old ones out, hopefully yank out the transfer tube and power wash the inside of the block. Re-install everything including a new transfer tube to help the old thing cool better than before. The car has been a blast to work on these past three weeks and even more fun to drive! I've never gotten so much un-wanted attention from complete strangers because of a car. Even after owning a pretty cool 1981 Stepside Silverado that was loud and hot-rodded up. It makes me and my wife want to lock it up and only drive it at night as for some reason it attracts every creepo and tire kicker around town every where we go. I couldn't even get it out of my garage to trouble shoot the blinkers that were grounding out without some guy coming up and puting his D*#! feet on my front bumper and asking for a picture! I wanted spray him off my property with a my water hose! Thanks guys for sticking around and reading through my write up! I can be chatty so beware!
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