1947 P15 ,hasn't run in 9 years, precautions to take before starting.

[Andy Coukos]

Thanks  for any guidance,  Andy 

[Radarsonwheels]

I always like to run off of a small gas can of known good gas to eliminate that variable (bad gas, varnish, dirt in the lines).  I'll also usually squirt some oil in the spark plug holes and work it around.

[Reg Evans]

I like to prime the carb with a little chain saw gas too.

[NiftyFifty]

I guess a few more details would help, but I would change the oil, I would remove the plugs and pour some Marvel Mystery  down the oil down the cylinders and in the intake (just a bit) and let it soak for a few days, then without the ign on I would crank it with the plugs out and let any excess push out, just to be sure you don't hydro lock it, but at the same time turn it over without ign to prime the oil system before firing, then as the other have said, feed it off a clean fuel source and possibly some mixed fuel.

once started I would feed it more MMO down the carb while controlling the throttle under the hood, cleaning out the system, which will help with any possible stuck rings or valves...but again..just small drips , not pours as you don't want to lock it up...just enough to sound like you've got the choke on full and have to give it more throttle to keep it going

 

good luck!

[ggdad1951]

personally, I'd take the plugs out and turn the engine over by HAND to make sure nothing is stuck in a bad position.

 

[Silverdome]

35 minutes ago, ggdad1951 said:

personally, I'd take the plugs out and turn the engine over by HAND to make sure nothing is stuck in a bad position.

 

I believe that is the first thing I would do along with some oil down the spark plug holes. Next I would pull off the top of the carb and check for dirt, varnish or any old gas. Then pour a little clean gas in the bowl of the carb and make sure the float and needle valve are working properly and you have no leaks. Then while the plugs were out I would clean and check the gap while also looking for hints of how it was running the last time it did run, such as evidence of coolant or excess oil or fuel. Then I would pull off the distributor cap and clean the points and check the gap while also inspecting the rotor and cap for wear. Then check all the ignition wiring, battery cables and connections. Then I would put a couple more drops of oil down each cylinder and crank it over a few turns with the starter and no plugs and coil disconnected and disconnect the fuel line from the tank at the fuel pump. Then replace the plugs and gravity feed some clean gas to the carb and try starting it up.

If it starts then you can address the rest of the fuel system. If it doesn't then you'll have to go back over everything to check for reasons of failure to start.

[greg g]

One of the things that is typical for these engines is one or more valves sticking open from sitting on the cam for all those years.  A compression gauge will tell you if that is a concern.  A caution for using a compression gauge is to make sure it goes in no farther than the spark plug.  Mark the threads with a piece of tape to assure you limits its depth.  Some times if only one cylinder is effected, you can get the engine running on 5 and the her and vibration might free up the valve.  Some times you can get them loosened by some manipulation of the springs by accessing them through the side covers under the manifolds.  Sometimes the only thing for it is to pull the head and play whack a mole with a rubber mallet while cranking the starter.  Like any internal combustion contraption, if you have spark, fuel, and compression, you should be able to start it.

[ggdad1951]

On 5/13/2017 at 10:32 AM, greg g said:

One of the things that is typical for these engines is one or more valves sticking open from sitting on the cam for all those years.  A compression gauge will tell you if that is a concern.  A caution for using a compression gauge is to make sure it goes in no farther than the spark plug.  Mark the threads with a piece of tape to assure you limits its depth.  Some times if only one cylinder is effected, you can get the engine running on 5 and the her and vibration might free up the valve.  Some times you can get them loosened by some manipulation of the springs by accessing them through the side covers under the manifolds.  Sometimes the only thing for it is to pull the head and play whack a mole with a rubber mallet while cranking the starter.  Like any internal combustion contraption, if you have spark, fuel, and compression, you should be able to start it.

Or stuck DOWN like I had...thats why I said hand turn.