alignment after disc brake kit

[gramps1951]

Well today I got my rusty hope disc brake kit all done  but the caliper bracket sits between the steering arm and the spindle  so both steering arms are inboard about 3/8 even with my tie rods all the way in it looks like they need to go in a little more has anyone else had this problem? If so what did you do looks like I need to shorten the drag link and retap don't want to do that. I am sure I am missing something or I would have heard you guys talking about it.  Thanks  Neil

[Don Coatney]

My first stop after I installed my disc conversion was the alignment shop. I carried with me the alignment specifications from my service manual. That was over 40,000 miles ago and no problems.

[gramps1951]

I just got new tires today I will bring it to an alignment shop but it's not even close right now and i don't want to smoke my new tires still need to bring in the tie rods a little more.

[Merle Coggins]

I also noticed I would have to accommodate for the thickness of the brake plates. I was replacing my tie rod ends anyway, so I trimmed off about 1/2 inch from each end before screwing in the new ones.

Edited April 22, 2017 by Merle Coggins

[gramps1951]

well i guess I was not alone but I don't see how cutting the tie rod would help mine are bottomed out so cutting the tie rod would not make it go in any further.

[Merle Coggins]

Then trim a little off he ends of the tie rod ends. Mine were bottomed out against the ends of the rod before I could get it short enough. I don't remember the inner threads being an issue, even after shortening it a bit. 

[NiftyFifty]

I cut the tube on mine..it was much easier then trying to cut the actual tie rod end...I think it's a must after the install

[gramps1951]

thanks for all the input it would have been nice if they talked about it in the directions. So that is what I will do tomorrow and hopefully I will be driveing my truck tomorrow it's been awhile and can't wait to see how my new brakes feel. Looks like I will not have a need for any of my old front brake parts if anyone has use for them they can have them for free just pay shipping shoes are thin and one wheel cylinder was leaking but the other parts looked good. just let me know.  Neil

[gramps1951]

When you cut the tube did you do both ends or just one?

Edited April 23, 2017 by gramps1951

[NiftyFifty]

I just cut the right handed thread side so I could clean the threads up with a tap

[pflaming]

I don't recall any of the problems stated. I took two new straight 2 / 6"S, squared them with the rear tires an d perfectly parallel to the frame, then I adjusted the front tires to these per specifications. Truck tracks like a train, no wear as yet on the front tires. Maybe I just got lucky. I did have to turn the tie rod ends in to shorten their length, as I best recall. 

[NiftyFifty]

These trucks want 1/8" toe in? I'm not sure I would try the straight edge lumber route, but if it worked then that's good...I just haven't found a piece of dead straight lumber in years..and from experience with my rack power steering set up...getting more then an 1/8" means a new set of tires in a very short amount of time.  Must have gotten lucky Pflam...maybe someone had already shortened yours for some reason, or your tie Rod end screw in further then some.  I bottomed mine out and couldn't get it  to work on the original set-up....I still run factory tie rods now, but I built adapters to make them mount to my Omni rack and pinion

[pflaming]

4Mula, wood from the Ore-Wash forests are laced with Viagra, thus they grow straight up.  Therefore the 2X6's are straight as arrows!! 

[gramps1951]

steve c you can have my old brake parts just call me I left you my phone number. Neil

[Young Ed]

5 hours ago, 4mula-dlx said:

These trucks want 1/8" toe in? I'm not sure I would try the straight edge lumber route, but if it worked then that's good...I just haven't found a piece of dead straight lumber in years..and from experience with my rack power steering set up...getting more then an 1/8" means a new set of tires in a very short amount of time.  Must have gotten lucky Pflam...maybe someone had already shortened yours for some reason, or your tie Rod end screw in further then some.  I bottomed mine out and couldn't get it  to work on the original set-up....I still run factory tie rods now, but I built adapters to make them mount to my Omni rack and pinion

he's probably got enough of a bend in the middle to make it shorter

[gramps1951]

I cut 1/2 inch off tie rod and tube and she lined up nice. the bummer was even with my new proportioning valve my rear brakes  lock up way before my front disc brakes. so now I ether adjust my rear off a little or install a manuel rear adjustable pressure valve. anyone else have this problem if so what worked for you thanks.  Neil  PS Steve it was nice to meet you and your wife hope you can use the brake parts and good luck with your truck.

[NiftyFifty]

Did you use the Cherokee porportioning valve? Mine works great...but I am running a jeep diff in the rear too

[gramps1951]

I have a ford 9inch rearend  it has large brake shoes the proportioning valve is gm disc front shoe rear.

[NiftyFifty]

Ah....definitely go with an adjustable valve then..too much mix and matching and you'll never be happy

[The Oil Soup]

Are you sure the proportioning valve is installed correctly?

[gramps1951]

Yes went with the diagram pretty straight forward .

[NiftyFifty]

You've got a mis match of parts, and that prop valve was only designed for specific brakes , I got lucky because I basically used the exact brakes that the Cherokee had.  Little more plumbing and $80 should have you a new valve