Trans mission Is Out!!!!

[55 Fargo]

Hi all, just spent the last hour and a half pulling the trans, out of my 47 Chrys. I didn't use no stinkin jack, just unbolted her, pulled her back with my bare hands and lifted her up and out through the removeable floor pan area. Will now be able to clean and paint the trans, driveshaft, bell housing, and paint them also.

Next job is to remove the bell housing and clutch and flywheel. This will give me good access to the back of the block, to repair the freeze plug leak.

Can I remove the bell housing before the clutch and flywheel come off. Or do they have to come off first, Phils 41 expleined the procedure to me, so I will also have a look at them again.

The trans was a little heavy, but not bad, easier to pull out then to put back in Iam sure..........Fred

[TodFitch]

When you go to put the transmission back in make two "guide rods" by taking two long bolts and cutting the heads off. Screw them in finger tight to the top transmission mount hole in the bell housing. Now you can slide the transmission along those bolts while turning the output flange slowly (transmission must be "in gear") until the splines match up with the clutch disk. Then the transmission will slide into place. Use the standard bolts to fasten the bottom of the transmission, remove the headless bolt/guide rods from the top and put in the proper bolts there.

This saves you from having to hold up the transmission by main force while trying to get the input splines matched up. On the wimpy little transmission on my 1933 I have never used a jack or dolly. I have always done it as you did: From the top with the floor boards removed. Or in the case of the last time with the body removed.

I have done this with and without using the long guide rods. And it is much, much easier with the long guide rods.

[mikemaker]

When you put the tranny back in, use a couple of guide bolts, it'll make your life a lot easier. Luckly, that tranny is not too aweful heavy. I've dropped one on my chest once and survived.

[Normspeed]

Thought it was yer head....

[Don Coatney]

I have never used the guide rods but I believe they would work well. I have always bench pressed transmissions into place however I am no longer a young strapping buck. Last one I did (my latest T-5) had to go in and out 3 times in one day as I had to make modifications. If I have to remove it again I will try the guide rods as I am now an old (and not so strapping) buck:D

[Lou Earle]

On those guide rods when I can use them ( cannot use it on uper driverside bolt on 46-48 trans) I cut a slot inthe end of them so I can use screwdriver to take them out. They will absolutely save your life on a A model ford.

Lou

[55 Fargo]

The release bearing assembly is tight on the shaft, is this normal, I could not slide it off. I also broke one of the "hairpin clips", does anyone on here have an extra, I could buy.

The ebrake shoe is toast, any idea how much it cost to get it relined.

Phone Napa out here, the clutch assembly is $146.00......Fred

[55 Fargo]

The sleeve assembly and release bearing are tight on the input shaft. How and what do I do to get this moving freely......Fred

[Normspeed]

Fresh clips might solve some of that falling off problem. Someone like Roberts might have fresh ones. I think I've seen some handbrake reline material in one of the supplier catalogs. You can rivet it in with brass rivets or probably JB Weld it in:p The bearing and sleeve shouldn't bind on the shaft unless there's some kind of buildup of crud on that area.

[Young Ed]

Its pretty easy to reline that ebrake yourself. You need the material some rivets a rivet set and a countersink. Also the brake shop here in town will do it for you if you want to send it out.

[40phil41]

Can I remove the bell housing before the clutch and flywheel come off. Or do they have to come off first, Fred

Fred,

Good point. If I remember correctly, you need to remove the clutch and flywheel before you can get the bellhousing off. This means you have to undo the bolts you can reach and then rotate the crank to get at the rest of them.

Phil

[55 Fargo]

Thanx Shel, let me see what I can do to find or fix what I have here. I guess I could buy a whole new release bearing unit.

I got the release bearing and sleeve off the trans shaft, man was it on tight, it was cruddy in there, some corrosion on the shaft, cleaned it all up, it slides beautifully on the shaft now.

How do release bearing lubricate, is it a sealedbearing, it seems to spin nice and freely now, I got a solvent bath.

Will post some pics later, gonna paint and clean the trans, and driveshaft. In about a week, plan on pulling clutch and housing to repair the freeze plug leak, not looking forward to this job, don't like working under the car with limited equipment.

Any advice on jacking and blocking up the front end of the car, how high off the ground should I take it.........Fred

[later]

Just a safety note, the parking brake will be ASBESTOS. Use breathing protection if you change the lining yourself, be safe as the dust from this can be carried into your house on your clothes and expose others in your household.

[55 Fargo]

I have been cleaning the trans and some of the other parts, but tomorrow I want to hit it with the power washer and degreaser cleaner, then the trans and driveshaft will be painted. Is it okay to power wash the outside of the trans............Fred

[55 Fargo]

Pics of the trans driveshaft, ebrake band, release bearing

[55 Fargo]

Do I or should I, drain the trans oil, before washing it and painting,the trans oil is fresh, but the case has a few leaks here and there you can tell, nothing serious. In reality, the trans probably doesn'treally need a paint job, it's pretty well cleaned up with solvent already........Fred