pyrodork Posted August 9, 2016 Report Share Posted August 9, 2016 I've had a 48 Dodge sedan for several months now. I was changing the thermostat and ended up snapping a bolt and cracked the head trying to get it out. Having a spare head on hand, I had it resurfaced and ended up getting about .30 removed. Install went good, starts and runs great... until I put it into gear. It goes into reverse and moves good, but going forward it barely moves... all while white smoke pours out the exhaust. It does move, but not very much and at high RPMs. Put back in neutral, the smoke clears and it idles and revs fine without smoke. I put each wheel up one at a time and they all spin, so I don't think a brake is sticking (I rebuilt the cylinders and put new rubber hoses on about 2 months ago). Parking brake isn't stuck. Started the thermostat change maybe 5 weeks ago. Head was off for less than a week. Car was driving beforehand. I had been doing a few things at once, water pump and timing/points at the same time as doing the thermostat. Transmission recently drained and filled with new fluid. Fluid Drive fluid level was good. Clutch never been an issue in my ownership. Haven't dug into the clutch or transmission yet since installing the new head, but the car does move and stop... just not very well in forward gears. Only smokes when trying to drive. Just wanted to ask the experienced before tearing things apart for no reason. Any helpful feedback appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharps40 Posted August 9, 2016 Report Share Posted August 9, 2016 billowing white smoke is antifreeze being burned in the cylinders. Perhaps your head gasket is not installed/sealed correctly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted August 9, 2016 Report Share Posted August 9, 2016 Did you use Coppercoat on the head gasket? And retorque after warming it up? Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted August 10, 2016 Report Share Posted August 10, 2016 May be the wrong gasket. Did the gasket match the block and the head? These heads also like to be retorqued after an initial running. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted August 10, 2016 Report Share Posted August 10, 2016 What I do not understand is why the smoke only when driving forward. I would suspect your brakes either wheel or emergency are dragging. Any noticeable smell when it is smoking? If you remove the oil fill cap with the engine running is there any noticeable blow by in the crankcase or is it clear as shown in this picture? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 10, 2016 Report Share Posted August 10, 2016 (edited) often this happens when too many maintenance actions have been done at the same time with no test run in between operations....as for falling on it face after a tune up you could be a victim of a bad condenser or improper connected condenser and maybe even a floating point contact due to improper mounting of the tension spring on install. Check for burnt blue points. And yes to your next question..they run great at idle and rev'ing no load...they fall flat on their face under load...it is evident that the problem is self induced maintenance action....revisit your work..start with the tune up.... Edited August 10, 2016 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharps40 Posted August 10, 2016 Report Share Posted August 10, 2016 (edited) Probably cant see the smoke driving backwards as it gets under the car and blown/mixed around/thinned out....but its likely there. Pyro....did you ever purchase a Motors manual? As PA indicates, you have a lot going on and since the head was off, another several layers of back checking to do. Might be best to read up and pick a basic starting point and work through the ignition, compression, water, oil pressure, rod knocking and fuel issues in some logical order. Old vehicles require a very deliberative approach to the loads of maintenance they require at age..... If this is the previously mentioned knocking motor with the cracked head......you are likely fighting a loosing battle with a well worn or very poorly rebuilt engine and may well consider the best use of limited resources is to seek professional help to rebuild the motor to new specifications or reengine the fleet with a known good engine. Given the likelihood of finding a local that can properly build an old mopar flat six with other than china parts, (no offence but given your multitude of queries, I can't recommend you rebuild it) a more modern driveline (even a low mileage used) may well fit a similar budget with greater reliability and durability than the ancient flat head and its primitive systems. A remanufactured leaning tower of power (if you are inclined for a 6) and late 70s OD 883 or even a torqueflight come to mind let alone a simple crate GM V8 and stick or auto......... Edited August 10, 2016 by Sharps40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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