1940 Chryler Royal

[Dreamweaver]

Try turning your phone 90 degrees when taking photos.

 

That........... or get my car twirler back from my friend - I thought about that, but if I turn it the wrong way the car will be upside down... 50/50 shot to get it right I guess

[Don Coatney]

That........... or get my car twirler back from my friend - I thought about that, but if I turn it the wrong way the car will be upside down... 50/50 shot to get it right I guess

Try it once and see what happens.

[Dreamweaver]

Round 2.. let's see how this goes:

[Dreamweaver]

A few more

[Plymouthy Adams]

ouch on the plastics...you know a artful woodworker could create a masterpiece of that dash in short order..imagine that carved in bubinga......this is a very painful reminder to us of todays all plastic interiors and how there will be nothing for future generation to work with much less admire and have fun with..

 

 

the grain shown at top of the picture is some of the veneer I have on hand here for one of my English cars with the wooden dash......

 

Edited July 9, 2016 by Plymouthy Adams

[builtfercomfort]

I also have a 39 Chrysler and the same dash issue with bad plastic. It's simpler on the 39 than the 40, paint can cover the area. Plastic was about 1/16 thick so the chrome pieces are loose - built in rivits hold them on - so I was going to use superglue.

You might also look at ASB plastic. It will mold with a heat gun and you might be able to make it work.

[garbagestate 44]

If you could mock the stuff up in wood, You could probably get some casting resin and do some mold making. I was doing a restore on a late 1930's Zenith radio that was missing part of the wrap around speaker grill and created a mold out of silicone. I then filled it with epoxy casting resin,let it sit for a couple days, popped it out of the mold and it was a nice sandable piece. Type in moldmaking on youtube and you'll get tons of results. 

[Dreamweaver]

If you could mock the stuff up in wood, You could probably get some casting resin and do some mold making. I was doing a restore on a late 1930's Zenith radio that was missing part of the wrap around speaker grill and created a mold out of silicone. I then filled it with epoxy casting resin,let it sit for a couple days, popped it out of the mold and it was a nice sandable piece. Type in moldmaking on youtube and you'll get tons of results. 

 

That's WAY more talent than I have. Will have to try to figure out how I will tackle this. There's this really cool business that opened up here earlier this year: Tinkertank = http://downtowntinkertank.com/ - There have a lot of cool equipment that, once you go through their classes on how to use them without breaking them or hurting yourself, you get to play with their equipment. The girl who owns it is pretty much a genius, and she knows how to use all the software, equipment, etc. They have some 3-D printers. If I can figure out how to get the pieces from concept to computer drawings, I could make them at the shop.

 

I have what's left of the pieces on the car... I'm thinking that I might be able to get to a point where I can spec them out and print them in plastic.

 

Thoughts?

[Dreamweaver]

I also have a 39 Chrysler and the same dash issue with bad plastic. It's simpler on the 39 than the 40, paint can cover the area. Plastic was about 1/16 thick so the chrome pieces are loose - built in rivits hold them on - so I was going to use superglue.

You might also look at ASB plastic. It will mold with a heat gun and you might be able to make it work.

 

Some of the remaining plastic looks pretty thin - maybe about 1/15th of an inch. But other pieces look much thicker... up to approximately 1/4". I have the repair manual and a parts manual for the car, but so far I haven't found anything that gives me any specs on the dash pieces.

[Dreamweaver]

So, a technical question for youall....

 

The knob to the right of  starter button... what is it?

 

The owner drove the car to drop it off at my house. The engine was warm. I wanted him to show me a few things.

 

He tried to start it, and it would just turn over and over. Then he pulled the knob out, and it started. I just assumed it was a choke, but he said it was some sort of cruise control or something. I'm confused.

[normanpitkin]

I have a hand throttle on my 41  but it's way over by the light switch .Maybe thats what it is ,try tracing it back to the carb?

[greg g]

It is a hand throttle normally used to hold a high idle for quicker warm ups on cold days. I would not encourage its use as cruise control.

[Dreamweaver]

So... trying to understand why, when the engine is already warm, engaging this would allow it to start when pumping the pedal would not?

 

The car was driven 20+ miles, parked for 2-3 minutes, and it wouldn't start after repeated attempts until this was engaged.

[Don Coatney]

And what happened after it started? Was the engine racing until this was pushed back in?

 

If you have not yet done so I  suggest you click on the "resources" tab at the top of this webpage and read everything found there.

[Dreamweaver]

A. And what happened after it started? Was the engine racing until this was pushed back in?

 

B. If you have not yet done so I  suggest you click on the "resources" tab at the top of this webpage and read everything found there.

 

A. Yes

B. Thank you... did not see that. This will give me some reading material while I am on a mini vacation

[Don Coatney]

I believe you have a flooding issue. Pulling the throttle all the way allows more air to enter the manifold clearing the flooding. Next time instead of pumping the gas, slowly push the gas pedal all the way to the floor then hit the starter button. A more permanent fix might be to lower your carburetor float. 

[greg g]

Yep you need to rember you are not starting an efi engine with ac ecu that monitors and adjusts everything for you when you turn the key or push the button. The owners manual for my 46 says that to warm start an engine the gas pedal should be pusgphed and held down about 1/3 of the cway before cranking. The next time you drive the car to full operating temp, check the base of the carb to see if is wet with gas. If so you are trying to start a flodded engine. So it needs more air, less gas. Also have some one watch the tail pipe while you start it. Any black smoke or strong smell of gas will confirm this.

Also I posted some links one the build card thread showing an original 41 Chrysler dash doard. Beautiful, to bad they are of such fragile stuff.

[Dreamweaver]

Yep you need to rember you are not starting an efi engine with ac ecu that monitors and adjusts everything for you when you turn the key or push the button. The owners manual for my 46 says that to warm start an engine the gas pedal should be pusgphed and held down about 1/3 of the cway before cranking. The next time you drive the car to full operating temp, check the base of the carb to see if is wet with gas. If so you are trying to start a flodded engine. So it needs more air, less gas. Also have some one watch the tail pipe while you start it. Any black smoke or strong smell of gas will confirm this.

Also I posted some links one the build card thread showing an original 41 Chrysler dash doard. Beautiful, to bad they are of such fragile stuff.

 

Is this the link you are referring to:

​

http://blog.chrysler.com/history/1941-chrysler-windsor

[Dreamweaver]

Trying to get a better idea of what the dash pieces should look like. Here I think I found something that I can use as a marker... may be helpful to others down the road.

 

I snipped them off a YouTube video.