The Oil Soup Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 This question is for those of you who have installed a newer rear axle and are using that for your e-brake rather than the original trans mounted brake. I want to keep the under dash mounted handle and connect it with the rear axle brake cables. What are some of the solutions you fellers came up with over yonder? Any help will be appreciated! Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 while it has been many years since modifying a 41 Dodge truck with modern gear and e-brake, I have done a many since on the cars of the era with modern rear gears and have always been able to connect the original brake handles in the car's compartment to that of the newer rear gear. Many times it depends on just how much of the original cable you wish to replace and where and how you wish to splice the connection. My latest endeavor is the most simple and easiest upgrade I have done ever and will be my standard application should I do another one in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobacuda Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 When I tried this, my "under the dash" brake handle set up did not have the "mechanical advantage" to work the rear brakes on the Dakota rear end I am using. I don't have the tools to fabricate anything that would work, so I put my old school e-brake back on. Guess I will also carry wheel-chocks , since I live in the hills. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 I would have to have seen your setup....I have not found this to be a problem be it a Dakota rear end or the 60's-70's 8 3/4 rear axle. If you were trying to pull the cable from the rear axle cable sheath at a severe angle I can see the problems this will give you...you have the advantage of a lever action included in the modern rear wheels over that of the tail shaft setup..properly routed cables and you should have been in business. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 The later trucks have a straight pull handle under the dash......no mechanical advantage there. But they did use a lever in the linkage just ahead of the ebrake. Seems to me you are going to have to build mechanical advantage like this into your retrofit in order to make the existing handle work. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 the handle is on one end of the lever and the stationary pivot is on the other...in between is the common pull connection for the brake cable..thus you are in fact levering this to start with... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Oil Soup Posted May 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 The under dash handle is still connected to the lever on the trans and was hoping to use that with a 1/4" or 5/16" rod going back to the two brake cables? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 cables yes..rods no...and you must be a single pull on a single cable both rear wheels to equalize the braking effect....you cannot be at a sever angle and usually common pull point e-brakes on a loop has a stationary eyelet for the one side... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Oil Soup Posted May 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 There is a "yoke" that mounts both cables with a centered hole for equal pull of the brakes. I'll have to look for a suitable length cable to connect with the dash handle. Thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 (edited) Made this video with Jim Shepard..... Video And this one shows the e-brake bracket at the beginning of the video. Video 2 Seem you could modify it to work. The bracket that guides it to the trans brake could stay and the "yoke" on the original e-brake (new axle) should work like you mentioned. I'll look at my Dakota frame see if can understand it better. 48D Edited May 10, 2016 by 48dodger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 It sounds like you have a plan. If you try it and you need a bit more mechanical advantage you could always lengthen the lever at the side of the transmission. Let us know how it works out. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Oil Soup Posted May 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 I ordered a cable that can be cut to length, should be in today. Does any body have an idea how much the cable has to travel to engage the e-brake? I can't imagine it would be more than a couple inches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted May 11, 2016 Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 I've made a pile of adjustments on my ebrake, but it never pulls the cable as far as it needs too, to do much more then stop the truck on flat ground..definitely would not be a "emergency" brake. I made a new cable that goes from the original cable mount to the back, then a factory splitter to both cables on my jeep axle..it pulls a fe inches, but still needs more. One thing that helps is to push hard on the brakes when applying the brake, but still not like a lever or foot pedal brake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Oil Soup Posted May 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 Here is the kit I got to make an intermediate cable. Will tackle it in the next few days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted May 13, 2016 Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 Hopefully that works out for you. One other thing you can do to get a bit of adjustment in the system is to put one of the old style cable length adjusters on the section of old parking brake cable just ahead of the connection to the lever on the side of the transmission. They were made to help compensate for cable stretch which the inner cable is subject to. I salvaged one off my truck and have it in use to do just that. Pretty low tech but they can be useful. Let us know how it all works out. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted May 13, 2016 Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 Ya, be interested to see and hear how yours works, I had to leave mine fairly loose underneath just so I can't get the handle to start moving and get a bit of pull before I run out of steam...if I was to do it over again, I would put a true lever style in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted May 14, 2016 Report Share Posted May 14, 2016 Ya, be interested to see and hear how yours works, I had to leave mine fairly loose underneath just so I can't get the handle to start moving and get a bit of pull before I run out of steam...if I was to do it over again, I would put a true lever style in It sounds like you need to re gain some leverage. On Oil Soups install he still has the lever linkage on the side of his transmission so he can use the advantage it offers. And if necessary add to it. Maybe you could find a way to add a lever to the linkage you have on your modified arrangement. I spent a bit of time looking at this when I was considering a tranny swap. It seemed to me that it would require adding a bracket with a lever off the frame near the end of the original Ebrake cable. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 14, 2016 Report Share Posted May 14, 2016 (edited) before I stumbled on the super easy last of the Dakota e-brakes set up...I fabricated this for my 41 Dodge with big block and 727..shows using existing cable and e-brake handle and common pull to the rear backing plates one piece cable captured in roller bearing pulley/bracket assemblies. Not saying this is the answer to all problems but may give you an idea or two,.... Edited May 14, 2016 by Plymouthy Adams 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigDaddyO Posted May 14, 2016 Report Share Posted May 14, 2016 Dang Tim, that's nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Oil Soup Posted May 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 Definitely a nice setup! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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