cgrandahl64 Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 First time poster.. My project truck here is a 49 B-1-D 126... Picked it up in decent condition, body was bad.. front cab corners, battery box etc was gone... fenders had a load of bondo etc.. but the price was right.. it was all there and it ran, for $800 it was a great starting place. We spent the first year getting it dialed in, new brakes, body sheet metal work etc.. had it up and down the road a bunch, but then we decided we wanted to make more of a custom rod out of it and try to get the handling more like a modern car.. Decided on a fatman kit and a fully boxed frame (that was some work) For an engine we picked a ford inline 300 for an engine backed by a AOD and a ford 8.8 (explorer, disc brakes) for a rear end. We used the TCI 54 chevy rear leaf spring kit. The 300 is an unconventional choice, but I wanted to stick with a six and i have always been found of the torque and reliably of the 300. The pics below show the truck when we bought it, and then its current state. Ignore the tires, they are just some crap I had laying around, but the front end is at finished ride height and the rear is about 1.25" taller than finished ride height (waiting on spacers).. I have one question at this point that we are scratching our heads with.. brake proportioning valves.. we have mustang 2 over sized brakes up front and explorer discs in back.. master cyl is from the explorer.. do we need a proportioning valve of some sort? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 Can't answer your question but welcome to the group. You're new but I think your truck has been here before. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavisco1 Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 Did you have to cut the firewall to accommodate the 300 six? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgrandahl64 Posted April 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 Can't answer your question but welcome to the group. You're new but I think your truck has been here before. Yea, previous owner was/is a member.. haven't found any of his posts though.. let me know if you can dig any up Did you have to cut the firewall to accommodate the 300 six? We did have to cut it, not only for clearance, but we pushed it back a few more inches to try and improve on weight distribution Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 I used a Wilwood adjustable valve. Allowed me to dial the brakes in on my conversion. jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 Yep, Jeff beat me too it...an adjustable proportioning valve from somewhere like Summit or Jegs is a good option when mixing and matching...allows you to get it just right. Cool project, any shots of the ifs setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 Yea, previous owner was/is a member.. haven't found any of his posts though.. let me know if you can dig any up That would be easy if I knew his ID but I don't recall it. I remember going out to see the truck once behind his office. I think I still have a turn signal light sitting here to match the other one that was on the fender. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruff1148kr Posted April 22, 2016 Report Share Posted April 22, 2016 go with the wildwood brand. I had the other ones sold by jegs and summit one leaked at the valve the other the knob broke on first use. Love they way it sits but did the same IFS set up and found that the lower bottom edge of the front grill hits everything. thought I'd mention because after paint its toooooo late Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted April 22, 2016 Report Share Posted April 22, 2016 Welcome! ANOTHER Cities member! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fargone Posted April 22, 2016 Report Share Posted April 22, 2016 First time poster.. My project truck here is a 49 B-1-D 126... Picked it up in decent condition, body was bad.. front cab corners, battery box etc was gone... fenders had a load of bondo etc.. but the price was right.. it was all there and it ran, for $800 it was a great starting place. We spent the first year getting it dialed in, new brakes, body sheet metal work etc.. had it up and down the road a bunch, but then we decided we wanted to make more of a custom rod out of it and try to get the handling more like a modern car.. Decided on a fatman kit and a fully boxed frame (that was some work) For an engine we picked a ford inline 300 for an engine backed by a AOD and a ford 8.8 (explorer, disc brakes) for a rear end. We used the TCI 54 chevy rear leaf spring kit. The 300 is an unconventional choice, but I wanted to stick with a six and i have always been found of the torque and reliably of the 300. The pics below show the truck when we bought it, and then its current state. Ignore the tires, they are just some crap I had laying around, but the front end is at finished ride height and the rear is about 1.25" taller than finished ride height (waiting on spacers).. I have one question at this point that we are scratching our heads with.. brake proportioning valves.. we have mustang 2 over sized brakes up front and explorer discs in back.. master cyl is from the explorer.. do we need a proportioning valve of some sort? I know there are after market adjustable proportioning valves out there. I'll bet the guys at Fatman can answer that question. I'm looking at the same process for my truck I plan to box the frame and install the the Fatman Mustang II package with disc brakes. I was surprised by the low price of the coil over conversion and the brake package is roughly what all the rest of the disc conversions are. Was the coil over kit difficult to install or was the frame boxing the hard part? The instructions for the Fatman kit seem straight forward enough and I do have access to a couple of professional welders who can do that work. I'm going to start boxing my frame next week that welding I can do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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