Rear Axle Castle Nut Tightning

[Andydodge]

Its worth getting a length of keyway, I used to have it in a 12" length and any time I'd pull the rear hub I'd cut a new piece and replace the old one, cheap insurance.........and the centre castellated nut on the rear axle must be tight, 142ftlb minimium is listed in the workshop manual.........Dons right re the cotter pin, if its too long just cut it with a pair of pliers, the main thing is to have the right thickness, ideally a close fit requiring a light tap into the nut/axle hole........can't work out how a hubcap would get marks on the rear axle unless something was very wrong.................lol.........my Oz 2 cents worth.................andyd 

[RobertKB]

You can cut the ends of the long cotter pin with a pair of cutting pliers. I have done this many times.

 

I assumed everyone would do this. You only need a little bit of the pin curled over.

[VFFFrank]

Thanks to all for helping me make my point. I know there isn't a grease cap on the rears as I am quite familiar with that type of axle. I'd not have commented if Tom hadn't indicated that it was a rear hubcap.

Those who feel it's necessary to bend the cotter pin ends around the nut have always bewildered me. What's the gain, aside from making it a bit easier to get a hold on the ends to straighten 'em out for removal? I clip them off short.....there's no force trying to yank them out once they're in and the free ends bent even slightly.

F

[Plymouthy Adams]

as long as the cotter pin is spread to a degree that offers resistant and not fall out..the purpose is satisfied..

[James_Douglas]

One item I would add to this thread...and I am doing it from memory so my numbers may not be correct but you will get the idea...

 

In my documents, Chrysler/Desoto service bulletins, I ran across one on the subject of the rear bearing shims that set the axle end play.  The original information in the book says .003 to .008 (http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/022/page31.htm) , but the service bulletin in the early 1950's said that due to the increase speeds being driven (think about the post war highway boom) that the play should be increased to something like .010 to .015 or so.  I would have to dig to find the actual numbers.  But, if my memory is correct is was almost double.

 

My guess as speeds went up the heat generated caused the axles to grow and bind the bearings.

 

On my '47 Suburban the rear bearings are larger and hard to get.  The race cost me $100 each! So, I wanted to make sure that they were loaded correct!

 

FYI, James

[Tom Skinner]

James,

Point well taken. Well I said I would get back, so here I am. I changed out my Axle Seals - all leaking. The Brake Shoes were OK - Caught it in time.

The Axle Blow over Safety had leaked down from the three way tee (Axle Oil) The Bearing were all still fine. When I cleaned up the mess and re-installed the Seals I torqued everything

correctly Hub Assembly Bolts 45FT/LBS (Castle Nuts to 150FT/LBS) Bled the Breaks and off I went for a ride. Everything quiet and tidy. When I filled the Pumpkin this time I let it run out the fill hole, then pumped 5-10 Ounces back out.

My theory, and its just a theory is the Modern 90WT Hypoid Oil overheats and expands and blows out the the safety at the top of the axle and the seals, so I gave the oil a little room to expand instead of blowing out oil seals.

No more problem with cotter pins either I got the right pins at Carquest (Thanks Jim 10 cents each) and no more noises coming from the rear end because of loose Castle Nuts.

Whew 2- days work - 90% Cleaning Parts. The Blow Over coated everything from the Axle Back.

Thanks for all the useful information everyone.

Tom

Huntersville, NC

PS I checked for leaks after a 20 mile ride - everything is in order - no leaks or problems.