VFFFrank

I see a 30A circuit breaker in the power supply to the Headlight switch. If it's "open" due to a failure or "contactitus" it will disallow power to all of the lighting circuits. Check for 6V at the input terminal and the load side. If it's there on the line, but not the load, it's open. F

Turning in the same direction of rotation retards, opposite advances. F

Don's correct .....a plugged bypass filter element will have no effect on oil pressure because.....it's a bypass filter. A plugged filter would have the same effect as having no filter at all, i.e., ports blocked off with pipe plugs. Frank .

Thebee, I don't know where my last post disappeared to so I'll give it another try. The 10-1323 M/C is several 60s and 70s Chrysler products but is a 1" bore. That would yield a displacement at only ~64% of that put out by your original 1.25" cylinder. Pedal effort would be substantially decreased for a given system pressure but the greater piston travel necessary to achieve the same volume output could result in over-traveling and "bottoming out" of the piston. Very bad. Look for a cylinder with a bore size closer to the 1.25", preferably one with a detachable reservoir so that it can be firewall mounted, as God intended. If it isn't easy to check, it doesn't get checked. Also, a residual valve in each circuit (10 psi for drums, 2 psi for disc) is recommended if the M/C is <24" above the W/C elevation. With the reservoir up on the firewall, they shouldn't be necessary, although I have installed them anyway without issue. Frank

thebee, In regard to the split/tandem system conversion, I have used the NAPA NMC M2534 M/C with success but in systems that used a 1" bore to begin with. The 2534 is spec'd for a number of Chrysler products (at least it's common and still in the family) and has a 24mm bore. The displacement difference is of no concern there (about .946" instead of 1") but, when compared to a 1.250 bore, the 24 mm bore difference is substantial, yielding only ~57% of the original amount. Pedal effort would be almost half but the big downside is that the travel to deliver the needed volume would certainly bottom-out the piston. Yikes! You need to find one with similar or equal bore size and, preferably, one that has a removable reservoir that you can mount up on the firewall where it belongs. Underfloor M/Cs suck. Frank

Young, I agree, but it's not so much that non-detergent is designed to let contaminants settle out, as it's that the modern oils are formulated with additive packages that (among other qualities) maintain contaminants in suspension, thus allowing them to continually recirculate. In "modern" engines (generally meaning those designed/built from the mid-fifties onward), the oil must pass through a filter prior to introduction into the oil gallery so that suspended material is removed before bearings, etc., are exposed to them......aka, the full-flow filtration system. Granted, the bypass type of filter is typically "tighter" (numerically lower micron rating) but doesn't remove particles prior to entering the gallery. Frank

Keep in mind that "anything gunky" is being recirculated through the bearings and everything else in the entire engine until it's drained. F

IMHO, an "experienced" engine that has been using a non-detergent oil for some time (or forever) can be harmed (using the term gently) by a subsequent change to detergent oils. A great place for sludge to form is in the tappet chamber area and, if released after the changeover, it can be a bad thing. The downside is that once it's disturbed, there's nowhere to stop cleaning. It's somewhat difficult to clean that area while keeping the crud contained within the chamber. Depending on how ugly it is, it can quickly clog the pump inlet screen. Seen it happen. Frank

48ply And, (a shameless plug follows) may I suggest a conversion to a full flow oil filtration set-up while it's still an easy job. Initial start-up is the most important time to have that feature. Your wallet may not like it but your engine will be grateful! Frank

At the risk of sounding like a know-it-all, that was my guess. Is it a Firestone by chance? "The voice of Experience".

Sounds familiar. F

OK, I see my error.....I think. I saw that the P25, D44 & D48, listed as "with Hy-Drive" has a regulator on the pump cover. The Full flow system appears to have the regulator in the base of the filter unit as well as the filter bypass device. F

The original 6V Pos earth system will run the fan OK at higher rpms, but you don't need it then. I'd recommend a 6V + alternator such as a Powermaster unit. Expensive, but they put out about 60 A at idle. That's when you'll need the electric fan to run without running down the battery. Think "hot day, traffic jam , goin' nowhere at idle". Pretty easy one-wire installation. You can leave the regulator in place just to serve as a junction block and to look stock, but it's not really necessary. F

With twin Hydra-Matics. We had a war to win. What they accomplished with the technology of the day is nothing short of amazing to me. We're still speaking English.....that says it all for me. Frank

Yes I saw that! Glad to hear that it got fixed. I'm aware that the portion of the plunger with reduced diameter is to allow flow from the bypass filter but this one has a factory full-flow, which appears to have the regulator in the pump cover and a filter bypass valve situated in the base casting of the filter assembly. Correct me if I'm wrong on this one....please. (You'd think as much as I hate being wrong, I stop it) A filter bypass is NOT to be confused with a bypass filter. It's there to allow flow in the event of an excessively restricted filter element. A "bypass filter" doesn't need that feature. The staggered port scheme disallows flow from the bypass filter at pressures below ~15 psi so as to not sacrifice any volume at low speeds. You can imagine my frustration when I once wrote an article entitled "In Defense of the Bypass Filter" and our newsletter editor changed it to "......Filter Bypass". !!! It made my piece make no sense at all. Frank

I've been thinking about this for a while......At the risk of insulting your intelligence, the only device that controls the upper limit of oil pressure is the oil pressure regulator (duh!). At pressures below it's "crack point" (the point in the plunger travel that exposes the relief port) the regulator isn't in play at all. So.....the only thing that would cause the over-pressure condition you are experiencing is a failure of the regulator plunger to move far enough to open that passage, or the highly unlikely possibility of a restriction downstream of that passage. The baffling thing to me is that your hot idle pressure is also much higher than it was. At oil pump output volumes produced during idle, the regulator shouldn't be doing anything at all. Even if it was stuck in the fully closed position, the pressure should be as it always was since closed (or anything less than moving to the aforementioned "crack point") is the normal idle scenario anyway. I realize that you have addressed that possibility already, but............ From what I read of my info, this is a C-51 or C-60?? I'm still getting familiarized with the Chrysler Corp. terminology. Frank

Good luck finding some one who gives a rip. They may take it back and refund the $ but any suggestions will fall on deaf ears. All you will hear is, "Next!" I do think that they have two levels of coil quality and I had the lower one, however, no one advised me of an alternative at the time. I'm using the Pertronix Epoxy-filled unit now on my other cars but the one in the previous example is still running on the old (presumably AuotoLite) unit. Frank

Although I wouldn't expect it to correct itself after driving a while, a "tread separation" or rupture of some of the cord will generate the symptoms you describe especially if the shake came on quickly. If it says"Firestone" on the side, it's more likely to be so. (just my experience/opinion, of course). Jack it up one wheel at a time, spin 'em and watch for a twist in the tread or have someone follow you and watch for it. Frank

Funny you should mention the NAPA coil. I tore out most of my remaining hair trying to find what manifested itself as a fuel problem only to find (after much work on carbs, etc.) that the new, made in you-know-where coil would progressively fail as the engine warmed up. Each time I thought I had found the culprit, I'd go for a test drive and it would start/run great for about 2 miles, then run worse and worse to the point that I couldn't go over about 25. If it quit, I couldn't get it started again 'til it cooled. I was suspecting carb heat-related issues. Just on a hunch, I put the old (probably original) coil back on and have never had it miss a beat since. I had recently driven from Seattle area to San Francisco and back during which the problem had started and gotten progressively worse. I was lucky to have made it home. The new coil was installed to assure reliability on the trip. So much for being prepared. F

If you dig deeply enough, you can find business relationships between almost every automobile manufacturer there ever was.....and is. Consider that the first Cadillac was powered by a Henry Ford designed/built engine. That was about '03. Although I reside mostly in the Hudson world, there are many things that aren't specific to any one make, so , if I think I have something to offer, I'll throw it out there. Frank

Just an interesting note: I had my '47 Hudson (I know it's the "wrong" make) hooked up to an oscilloscope as part of a troubleshooting exercise and noticed that the dwell went up and down about 6 degrees with each revolution of the distributor. Hmmm. I took the dist out and checked it to find that the bearings were excellent (I had just put new ones in it) but the small diameter portion of the shaft above the bearing, the part that the centrifugal advance rotates on, had been slightly bent to the tune of about .003". This wasn't a wandering dwell angle, but a regularly variable one. Needless to say, one can't accurately time an engine if the dwell angle, and thus the timing, is a moving target. I mention it because it's something to look for regardless of the make. Just my two bits worth. Frank

Oh....a wandering dwell angle may suggest some looseness in the upper dizzy bearings. The closer the points are to the cam, the smaller the angle and vise versa. F

I"d suspect a fault in some secondary ignition component.....plug, plug wires, etc. When it's dark.....really dark (like in the garage with the lights off) open the hood and watch for a light show. Don't inhale any CO. F

I'm also a fan of the filter between the tank and pump.....best to get the crud out before it goes through any pump. I use a typical spin-on filter base with 3/4-16 threaded mount and a Baldwin BF-954, typically spec'd for Diesel applications but compatible with gasolines including E15. I started with NAPA 3386 (WIX 33386) but discovered (the hard way) that they are as good as no filter at all due to a manufacturing flaw that allows fuel to "short-circuit" from inlet to outlet without passing through the filter media. Took back a whole danged case of those when I found that. Frank

I think it's also worth mentioning that an electric situated between the tank and a stock mechanical pump could cause a dangerous situation if it's used as a back-up for a failed mechanical unit. If the original fails due to a diaphragm rupture (one of the usual causes of failure) and the electric is turned on, there is a good possibility that it will pump fuel past the rupture and into the engine crankcase. Just food for thought..... F