Chevy Head Bolts in a Dodge Engine

[Dave72dt]

I suppose you could use the ARP's.  I've taken heads off studded blocks and they don't always come off easy.  Rust or corrosion build up between the stud and head can make for colorful language even if you don't have to deal with broken studs.  For the added expense of ARP  on a stock engine, not necessary.  I would use their thread lube on them though.

[John-T-53]

I was cleaning shop last weekend and came across my old head bolts. I changed to studs and nuts last time I rebuilt the engine so I have no use for these anymore.

I was going to toss 'em or put them in "deep storage", but if anybody wants a relatively good set of bolts for free, let me know.

 

Thanks,

[48jumpdoors]

On 11/2/2015 at 6:39 AM, greg g said:

My machine shop sourced the bolts for me when I had the head milled.  (by the way as long as your are doing it why not take off enough to make a difference in the Compression ratio?  .030 to .060 off will really wake up your engine and won't increase the cost of the job significantly) 

 

 

Got them through the machine shop. Pioneer Parts # 362. They were under a dollar when 
I got them 12 years ago. If you can't source them by brand, that should give you a number to cross reference. 

 

http://p15-d24.com/topic/37872-head-bolts/?hl=pioneer

so I am replacing my head bolts and saw here that you thought that taking off .030-.060 would be a good thing to do since I have the head off. Will this put any undue strain on the internals that I should be concerned about? The motor ran good when I last ran it about 20 years ago. I just unstuck a valve on number 6 and will be putting the head back on with a new gasket here soon, but if I could get a little more from the motor by shaving the head then maybe I would do that. Thanks

[ggdad1951]

7 hours ago, 48jumpdoors said:

so I am replacing my head bolts and saw here that you thought that taking off .030-.060 would be a good thing to do since I have the head off. Will this put any undue strain on the internals that I should be concerned about? The motor ran good when I last ran it about 20 years ago. I just unstuck a valve on number 6 and will be putting the head back on with a new gasket here soon, but if I could get a little more from the motor by shaving the head then maybe I would do that. Thanks

I decked my head 0.030 when I rebuilt...also depends on if the head has been decked before.

[48jumpdoors]

any idea what .030 off the head will bump the compression ratio too?

[ggdad1951]

Sorry, no.  I never really worried about any improvments, just what needed to be done at the time.

[48jumpdoors]

Im going to go ahead and have 0.030 taken off the head and have it hot tanked/checked for cracks etc... then paint her up nice and purdy

[48jumpdoors]

anyone know how you could tell if the head has been decked before? Im sure there has to be a measurement somewhere? 

[JBNeal]

additional information - flathead volume verification

[Bryan]

https://p15-d24.com/topic/57282-heads-anybody-measured/?do=findComment&comment=617909

 

[Matt Wilson]

I'd make sure your valves will clear the head before taking any material of the head.  You can lay the head directly on the block, unbolted and with no head gasket in place, then rotate the engine by hand and see if the valves lift the head off the block.  If not, then you're good, but if so, then you could try it with something a little thinner than the head gasket in place (maybe some washers or cardboard or something) between the block and head and then see if the valves lift up the head.  You could also try stuffing some modelling clay, purchased at your local hobby store (or Amazon), into each combustion chamber and then rotate the engine.  You can then take the head off and stick a scale or the skinny, protruding back end of your calipers into various locations in each valve head impression in the clay, and that will give you a more accurate idea of the valve clearance.  If you rely on this method, you should do this in every combustion chamber, as the chamber depth can vary from one chamber to the next.  At least that seemed to be the case when I measured mine.  I'd suggest 0.030 - 0.040" clearance, but other folks may have other suggestions.

 

Having said all this, I removed about 0.060 from the head in my '49 Power Wagon when it had a 230, and I never could tell any difference in power, so I don't usually recommend it to others.  It seems like it mostly just eats into the future machinability of the head.  At least that was my impression.  I was disappointed.

[48jumpdoors]

3 hours ago, Matt Wilson said:

I'd make sure your valves will clear the head before taking any material of the head.  You can lay the head directly on the block, unbolted and with no head gasket in place, then rotate the engine by hand and see if the valves lift the head off the block.  If not, then you're good, but if so, then you could try it with something a little thinner than the head gasket in place (maybe some washers or cardboard or something) between the block and head and then see if the valves lift up the head.  You could also try stuffing some modelling clay, purchased at your local hobby store (or Amazon), into each combustion chamber and then rotate the engine.  You can then take the head off and stick a scale or the skinny, protruding back end of your calipers into various locations in each valve head impression in the clay, and that will give you a more accurate idea of the valve clearance.  If you rely on this method, you should do this in every combustion chamber, as the chamber depth can vary from one chamber to the next.  At least that seemed to be the case when I measured mine.  I'd suggest 0.030 - 0.040" clearance, but other folks may have other suggestions.

 

Having said all this, I removed about 0.060 from the head in my '49 Power Wagon when it had a 230, and I never could tell any difference in power, so I don't usually recommend it to others.  It seems like it mostly just eats into the future machinability of the head.  At least that was my impression.  I was disappointed.

thanks much, I will call the machine shop and just have him clean it up and forget taking material off of it. I just read that the 230 pistons come all the way to the top of the cylinders which is what I saw when I was freeing up my stuck valve. So maybe the Ol' girl was upgraded to a 230 in the past. The motor has 0.040 oversized pistons in it as well.