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Posted
I had a coolant leak in the same spot when I put my fresh motor in. Thought it was a leaky front freeze plug. After a couple radiator and front mount removals I tracked it to two causes. Hope this might save you some work.

First, the timing cover bolts and washers are location specific. The shop that assembled my long block didn't realize that and they had some bolts/washers in the wrong spots. Some have special cupped sealing washers and need to go in water jacket hole locations. I had to borrow a couple from my spare motor because the shop either lost a couple or put them elsewhere on the motor. If you need a photo showing locations I can take one of my spare motor.

Second, the shop used no sealer on the bolt threads. I tried two types, the first one, Ace pipe thread compound, was a bit too runny and did not seal the coolant well. The second type, Permatex thread sealant with teflon, did the trick. If I did it again I would use my new favorite sealer, Hylomar Universal Blue.

Tips I learned the hard way: Use plenty of good thread sealer. Sealant works best on clean dry threads, difficult when you're working on a freshly drained coolant system. Also helps to not rush the job, let that sealant set up well before you refill and fire it up.

I really hope this saves you some unnecessary dismantling. On my 53 it was easy to work in the area with the radiator and motor mount removed. I just slightly lifted the motor with a cherry picker while the mount was out. No leaks at all (from that area anyway) in over 3,000 miles.

Thanks Norm. I'm going to be switching the front motor mount this week which of course involves removing the timing chain cover. I always bag and tag bolts because of my horrendous memory, but I never would have thought to mark them as to the hole they came out of.

You probably saved me from the same situation. Thanks.

What's the best way to center the cover without the special tool?

Thanks again

Pat

Posted

"What is the best way to center the cover without the special tool ?" Very simple , install the cover loosly and then put in the center hub . The center hub centers the cover , Then tighten the bolts .

Posted

Good catch Don,

Actually was not in during the "photo session",, ,,:)

Right now I have it just laying across the head into the intake manifold. But I am going to rout it behind block later once I get everything cleaned up.

Just got the new Amps and Equalizer working last night. All this through the stock radio converted to 12 volts to keep the NOS look.

Now that I know the engine runs I am in the process of hiding/routing all the wires, and putting things back together to take it on the road. Put the tranny/overdrive in yesterday. Re-routed the duct work for AC.

Just trying to make as clean and neat looking as possible. Lots of hours.. for stuff no one will know, except me.

Posted

I am porting directly from the intake manifold. The Offy intake has two openings that I can remember off the top of my head, Carb vacume ports are plugged. I will take pics tomorrow to post of the line.

yes,, 2x2 from Langdons

Posted
I am porting directly from the intake manifold.

Will not work if you connect directly to the intake manifold. Believe it needs to connect to the indicated port in this picture. Someone please correct me if I am wrong.

vport.jpg

Posted

I agree with Don. Carb vacuum and Manifold Vacuum are opposing forces. The advance pot needs internal carb vacuum which increases with airflow through the carb. The signal can then advance the timing before the rpms raise enough to change the mechanical advance. Intake manifold decreases with throttle opening. SO if you hook the dizzy to manifild vacuum it will be fully advanced at idle and retarded at WOT.

Posted

I ran all last summer this way. Langdons instructions were to try combinations and see what worked best, also to start off with the carbs vacuum plugged. I have not had time to try the different combos. By the timing light it advanced perfect climbing to wot. I am waiting for the shroud to be cut before re installing the radiator then will have time to mess some more with it.

I have to work today :( , but when I come back I will post Langsdon's instructions.

Posted

Back,

Now that I think about it, I did hook up the vacume on the carbs. I went back and read Langdon's instructions. It's been so long (for me anyway) since I pulled the engine I forgot.

I did use the manifold vacume to set the mixture on both carbs, (that's a guess too, but I do think I remember that part,)

  • 3 weeks later...
Guest Road Warrior
Posted

JD, dang you've been busy. Can't wait to see the car in Detroit in a few weeks. Looks like it's come a loooooooong way since ya came thru Colorado last year. Hope you can find time again to stop for the night or another lunch at Bender's Brat Haus. Looking forward to cruising Woodward with you in a few weeks.

Posted

Hey Marc, didn't know they allowed Plymouth Prowler Owners in here, ,,,,:P

And thanks, see you in mid August

Road Warrior is a old buddy from my Kat days.

This is his purple, and my spectra flair silver

MJ12.jpg

MarkJohn0.jpg

One of the drawbacks of the Prowler was the V6 engine, people said they were underpowered...

These two were NOT underpowered,,,,,,,,,,,,,,:cool:

Posted

I figured Marc would chime in here.

The purple has bored and stroked 5.0 with a bit of nitrous.

The silver had a Paxton Supercharger, 10 lbs of boost, headers etc.

Both had a final drive ratio set up that was great for 1/4 and street, not the greatest on freeway. Both very quick, the silver turned low 13's consistently. Not bad for 3.5 V6

I could beat Marc's when he was off the bottle, but not when on, although it was very close.

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