1952 B3C over heating

[Npence]

I have found my truck running around 212f but not 100% sure temp gauge is correct. I popped the hood to find radiator boiling over at the cap. Took my infrared gun and took temps around the stat housing read 165f. Around spark plugs 259f and temp gauge port 185f. Not sure how to tell if the water pump is working. Any tips to figure out what is my problem and where to start.

[NiftyFifty]

Your temp gun is a good indication of what's going on, do you run a 60/40 mix, or straight water? With the truck cool, you can start it and leave the rad cap off and watch it until the t-stat opens to ensure your getting decent flow in the rad/pump. Aside from that, I would try another gauge, or just flush the entire system to be sure you've eliminated any issues.

[55 Fargo]

On these engines, unless a fairly fresh rebuild the following is a good plan of action for reviving the cooling systems.

-clean rad, replace if flow is less than optimum, or if core is beyond recall.

-pull water distribution tube and clean out and make sure tube is in good shape

- pull frost plugs on the block and clean out, flush block well

-waterpump in good working order

-new t/stat

-correct engine timing

A leaking head gasket can also create more heat allowing exhaust gases to enter the cooling system, a stuck heat riser, may also contribute to higher engine temps on warm days under higher load operations.....

read this,

http://p15-d24.com/topic/8279-engine-runnin-hot-again/?hl=%2Bwater+%2Bdistribution+%2Btube#entry70468

[Jeff Balazs]

It would be helpful to know a bit more about the condition of your truck. Is this a rebuilt engine or one that sat for a long time? Was it working OK and this problem just started? Obviously if the radiator is boiling over there is a problem......knowing more about the general condition should help us help you pinpoint the problem.

 

Jeff

[Don Coatney]

If the radiator is over filled it will puke out the excess until it finds it working capacity.

[pflaming]

Nice to know temp at different areas. 259f is a good cooking temp for meat, 165f for veggies. Now to get a ready to eat meal at the fishing hole one just figures out the time required. TKS . Bonus, no FIRE required,, now I only need an anti cat device, maybe a dog? Off topic, sorry.

[Npence]

Thanks for all your help guys might have time this weekend to try some of your ideas out. Will keep you posted.

[Npence]

I believe my temp sensor is off by about 50 degrees. Any idea where I can find one that works?

[Plymouthy Adams]

have you tried calibrating the gauge?  outlined in the owners manual

[Jeff Balazs]

In your first posting you mentioned your radiator was boiling over. I know you have an infrared but have you tried checking the water temp with a cooking thermometer ? Another thing to consider ....... what shape is the water distribution tube in ? If it is stopped up or the rear cooling jackets are full of crud it is just possible that you have a much higher temperature at the rear of the engine.....where the tempurature probe is located.

 

Jeff

[Npence]

I drained the cooling system and going to test the temp probe. I pulled the thermostat looks to be some aftermarket junk and looks to be a 190 stat but not for sure. Before I did all this I ran motor up to 200f and didn't see any water moving in radiator. So my goal tonight is to install the correct 165f stat and test the temp probe then take it from there.

[Npence]

I heated some water up to 170f, gauge was reading close to 212f hard to really tell on these gauges probably closer to 200f. Then I replaced thermostat with a 165f tstat filled with water, ran truck around the block a couple times to get temp up to what it was saying was 200f stuck thermometer in water inside rad. Was reading around 170f took temps around tstat housing and temp probe all pretty close to 175f. Ran truck for about 30min drove it around the block a few times took temp reading inside rad 176f. So I bent the needle a little so it is reading closer to real temp. Ran for another 15min stayed right around 175f. One thing I did notice when driving around 50mph would creep up to around 200 but once stopped at stop signs would drop right back to 180 or so. Would running cheap unleaded gas cause higher temps.

Is there anything else I should be checking I feel that the gauge was just off by around 40f. What kind of water should I put into the radiator.

[55 Fargo]

I heated some water up to 170f, gauge was reading close to 212f hard to really tell on these gauges probably closer to 200f. Then I replaced thermostat with a 165f tstat filled with water, ran truck around the block a couple times to get temp up to what it was saying was 200f stuck thermometer in water inside rad. Was reading around 170f took temps around tstat housing and temp probe all pretty close to 175f. Ran truck for about 30min drove it around the block a few times took temp reading inside rad 176f. So I bent the needle a little so it is reading closer to real temp. Ran for another 15min stayed right around 175f. One thing I did notice when driving around 50mph would creep up to around 200 but once stopped at stop signs would drop right back to 180 or so. Would running cheap unleaded gas cause higher temps.

Is there anything else I should be checking I feel that the gauge was just off by around 40f. What kind of water should I put into the radiator.

The cheap gas is not helping matters, thats a for sure, but not likely the cause.

fast high speed RPM and load,= more load , more heat , higher engine temps, and this requires a rad and cooling system in very clean and effiicent condition.I would look at the rad on this one, as well as the entire cooling system, water pump, lower rad hose not collapsing at higher engine RPM. Late ignition timig, and a stuck heaat riser can cause higher engine temps at speed too.When you then come to a stop and some idling and low speeds = heat has to go somewhere, your engine could have some cooling system restrictions, less than 100% rad efficiency, no fan/rad shroud, heat will build until you are driving a bit again and air is moving through the rad, and waterpump is moving the coolant a little better.

I always firmly believe these old engines need to have there core plugs  and water tube removed and get the internal water passages as clean as possible.

In ohio, you could run a higher ratio of water to anti-freeze for summer, water is a better heat transfer liquid than higher concentrations of glycol. The antifreeze does provide a higher boiling point than water though. Good Luck, get the rad and cooling system good and clean and it will run all day on the hghway at 170-180 unless really pushed and it is very hot outside...

[Npence]

Installed a new temp gauge seems to be running around 175 or so after 15min running at idle.