1950 Y u no spark......

[Coronet1950]

Ok I pulled my 1950 Coronet out of the shop, parked it, and went about my day. I came back to it and no fire. I have since replaced the points and condenser. No spark. The points are set to 0.20 ( checked numerous times) I then replaced the coil (duralast c809) no spark. I also replaced the rotor and cap as well with new plugs and wires. still no spark. with the key in the on position I am getting voltage from post to post on the coil. as soon as I crank the car it does not hit. no spark at the points. had to turn car off coil was getting super hot. I thought it might be a faulty coil so I exchanged it for another one. same issue. what the hell?

[deathbound]

What the condition of the little jumper wire inside the distributor? Been a culprit for many. Just a thought.

[Young Ed]

What the condition of the little jumper wire inside the distributor? Been a culprit for many. Just a thought.

 

That was my thought too. About a month ago my truck started and ran long enough to get about 1/2 way out of the garage and then died. The culprit was that little wire.

Edited May 15, 2015 by Young Ed

[Bill Bartlett]

I'm with the guys on the jumper wire idea. It sounds like the coil is energized continuously.

But just to possibly catch a future problem .... did you compare the new cap and rotor with the old ones? Over the years, someone could have put in a different distributor. There are several that will fit and work. But some of the parts don't interchange.

Good luck. Please let us know what you find.

Bill

[deathbound]

It's been mentioned on here to match the cap/rotor to distributor....use the id tag info from the dizzy.

[Coronet1950]

Ok replaced the little jumper wire. I am getting 6 volts to the points. With the key on opened up the points and no spark. I am getting voltage to the coil. New points and condenser. What the eff? The points should have sparked.

[DonaldSmith]

Something may be shorted.  See if you are getting the 6 volts on and off to the coil. Remove the wire at the coil, and put a meter or test light on the wire; should get 6 volts with points closed, zero with the points open. 

 

Then, with the wire from the distributor removed from the coil, try touching 6 volts to the terminal of the coil, to see if you get a spark,such as with a high tension wire from the center of the distributor to a spark plug whose shell is grounded. 

[JohnS48plm]

did you change the condenser?

[Coronet1950]

does anyone have a pic of the inside of a iat 4011? 

[48ply1stcar]

In your initial comment you said you pulled it out of the shop.  Did you drive it out of the shop, if so I can't believe that many things could have gone bad in a day.

 

If you didn't drive it that's a hole other thing.  I did everything you said and my car wouldn't start.  I rebuilt the carb and I almost had to sneak the key in the ignition. 

[Coronet1950]

I drove it out of the shop

[Don Coatney]

This might or might not help. I don't recall the numbers of these distributors.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You might want to pull your distributor and bench test it using a drill motor.

 

[Coronet1950]

ok there is a red wire that was on here when I opened the distributor up. Is this suppose to be there???

[Coronet1950]

Ok did a continuity test from point to point. ( did this with out the the little jumper wire attached to the bolt leading out to the wire to the coil) did what it was supposed to when points are closed the meter beeps and open the beeps stop. Great this was good. I hooked up the jumper wire along with the outside wire and did the test again. beeps constantly opened and closed. So, I put the distributer back in the car with the cap off. I unhooked the wire that is attached to outside of distributor and put a jumper wire from the jumper wire to the distributor side of the coil. turned the key and the points fired. The only thing I can think of is that the bolt the attaches the jumper wire and the wire leading to the coil is somehow grounding our the points, but it finally sparked!!!!