There's A reason Bodywork Is Expensive

[DJ194950]

Drying fast, maybe just a slight amount more of reducer, runs are not usually associated with fast drying or painting drying so fast as it exits the gun and does not flow out and land on the intended panels, causing dry spray.

if you were running warmer in the shop today, and had dry spray, you could have used a slower reducer just adding a bit to allow it to flow out before it dries. I dfo not think the hardener i kicking too fast, it sounds like it needed more solvent to flow.... a fine line many times, from too thick and dry to too thin and runs....

Did you get their tech sheets before spraying and do test patterns on paper or cardboard Before spraying the parts?

 

Avail. on their website and they do sometimes add a reducer to this paint.

 

Could not download it as I guess I don't yet have the new Required version of Flash!

[Plymouthy Adams]

I have used many paints and followed guidelines on reducing from one to the other...however..for best results..and depening on your tip size etc...a viscosity check is truly needed when mixing paints for spraying...

[NiftyFifty]

This is the same type as the orange that I had applied by a professional painter on round 2, and even he was having dry spray issues, it's just a fact that the hardner is almost like a fast type and even at a 8-1 ratio, it just goes on either wet wet, or dry spray. I tried a lighter coat on the truck cab the first time, it's the reason the paint went so rough, this stuff just doesn't move once it his the panel, as in its not self levelling like a better quality paint.

It really needs no reducing, and adding reducer does not guarantee that the paint will dry slower, it can have the opposite effect. I had a much smaller pattern then I would normally like, 1.4 tip and painted slower then I'd like too. This ivory tho seemed even thinner then the orange, my buddy actually tried to make runs in a couple hidden spots and the orange wouldn't make one without pretty much holding the gun in a spot for 5+ seconds. The ivory was running quite easily in some spots, and sprayed fine.

I just wouldn't use this paint again, or get them to give me a better option for hardner...if you sprayed this in Arizoma or TX, you would be dry before it left the gun! LOL

[48Dodger]

Reducer is your temp control. The speed in which the solvent evaporates (flash time) is what gives you your finish. 

Paint has its own solvent in which the solids (color) are suspended, but the reducer is designed to take over its properties and

make it part of the flash process. EPA hates solvents because of its air quality. Paint companies will say its fine without reducers and is up to the buyer to decide. Cya stuff right there.

 

Going on dry should mean drops aren't flowing out.....which would means the paint volume might be low. But since its not reduced, I would think the actual rate of flow rate (viscosity) is to low. You should be able to see the drops grow into each other on the first pass (on the dry surface of the primer) Then after the flash time (minimum is around 15 mins, but can be better to wait twice that) the second coat should disappear into the first. What happens on the second coat is this: first is "dry" and is having solvent (reducer) reintroduce to it, causing the two coats to "melt" together. This is called a chemical bond. The first coat made a mechanical bond with the sanded primer. Even if your viscosity is right, without the reducer, you still need the chemical help from reducers to make it pretty.

 

48D

[55 Fargo]

This is the same type as the orange that I had applied by a professional painter on round 2, and even he was having dry spray issues, it's just a fact that the hardner is almost like a fast type and even at a 8-1 ratio, it just goes on either wet wet, or dry spray. I tried a lighter coat on the truck cab the first time, it's the reason the paint went so rough, this stuff just doesn't move once it his the panel, as in its not self levelling like a better quality paint.

It really needs no reducing, and adding reducer does not guarantee that the paint will dry slower, it can have the opposite effect. I had a much smaller pattern then I would normally like, 1.4 tip and painted slower then I'd like too. This ivory tho seemed even thinner then the orange, my buddy actually tried to make runs in a couple hidden spots and the orange wouldn't make one without pretty much holding the gun in a spot for 5+ seconds. The ivory was running quite easily in some spots, and sprayed fine.

I just wouldn't use this paint again, or get them to give me a better option for hardner...if you sprayed this in Arizoma or TX, you would be dry before it left the gun! LOL

Yes this would be an issue in hotter temps, as well as high humidity temps.

Dry spray, I would reduce it with a slower reducer, and see it that helps. The only reason they sell it like this now, is ofr environmental and VOC laws, it and and should be reduced for the situation, temp and humidity, I do not care how they sell it, reduce it to flow.

But you are right, any fast drying enamel can be an issue for spraying large items, as things are drying way too quick.

This could happen with PPG or Dupont products too, if things are not mixed to the right consistency for the spraygun and environment too.

Enamels probably still spray on and and level out better with conventional spray and a larger tip, as in old school says a Binks model 7 with a 1.5 to a 1.7 tip, but there will be more waste and overspray with it too....

[NiftyFifty]

This stuff was ready to re coat within 7-10 minutes, and I mean dry dry ready.....you could come back to the first panel in the rotation and you could touch a hidden spot with a bare finger and leave no print, and have no stickiness at all. I asked my painter buddy about reducing it when he came to paint the cab, and he said he wouldn't, it's already very thin,and the ivory was thinner IMO. I have medium reducer here, which is common for our temps, but I was more worried of running into running issues, which I already had with my first coat yesterday without thinning it. I did the proper light coat on the cab the first go round, and as I say, it dried so fast that it wrecked the next two coats on top of it, it just wouldn't "activate" or flow with the following coats. I even tried just laying the paint on thick on my third cab coat, and it didn't fix a thing.

Even today, I think it was just overspray from the first coat that caused the rough issues under the second coat..I made sure to put a good heavy coat on for my last go today, and some panels like the hood even coat over coat because I could see it wasn't flowing out.

I might try reducing when I paint the box sides in a few weeks, see if I get any different results, but I'm also going to call TCP and see if I can use a different hardner as well...something to change up what's happening now. I just knew I should have used Hot Rod Flatz....nobody can screw up flat paint! LOL