Yet another rear brake thread

[CoronetGuy]

This is on my 1952 Dodge Coronet. I'm having issues with my rear brakes dragging after the pedal has been applied. I have searched & read quite a few threads about dragging rear brakes. After a short drive, the rear wheels will be warm & I can see a little steam coming out the rear wheel well.

 

So far, I have made the minor adjustments according to what I have read here & the recommendations of a local mechanic who works on a lot of old cars. I have replaced the rear rubber brake hose. I have also used a dental pick to clean out the rear hole inside the master cylinder. I am getting a pretty good stream of fluid when I press the pedal. 

 

But after I press the pedal, it is quite difficult to turn the rear tires. I worked on it last night. This morning when I went to work on it, I was able to turn the rear drums (tires are off the car & at my brother's house cause he was fixing some leaks they had) But then I applied the pedal a few times. 

 

What am I overlooking here? What should be my next step? After I get my rear tires back from my brother, I was thinking maybe it was time to remove the rear drums & see what's going on in there. 

 

Thanks

[casper50]

what shape are your metal lines in?  How clean is your fluid?

[Young Ed]

Have you messed with the adjustment of the master cylinder pushrod?

[soth122003]

If you haven't removed the rear drums, you should, and pay close attention to the return springs.

 

Joe

[CoronetGuy]

The lines look to be pretty good. Fluid is kinda dark though. I have not messed with the master cylinder rod adjustment yet. Going to go pick up my rear tires & then I will mess with it this afternoon

[Young Ed]

The lines look to be pretty good. Fluid is kinda dark though. I have not messed with the master cylinder rod adjustment yet. Going to go pick up my rear tires & then I will mess with it this afternoon

 

If you haven't touched the master cylinder push rod its probably not the issue. You can still double check the freeplay though.

[Plymouthy Adams]

as you stated wheels as in both the common part is the rubber flex line..the pressure of the master will overcome a bit of deterioration and collapse but the return springs on the shoes is not great enough to return the fluid to the master on release..quick test..if apply brake and they stay binding..crack line ahead of rubber..if when bled the wheels are free, springs have returned the oil..do it again and crack it on the master side of the rubber..if no quick release..you are suffering internal collapse of the rubber line. 

[CoronetGuy]

The rubber flex line was replaced already. Sucked out most of the fluid from the master & added fresh fluid. Bled the rears a bunch of times. Still holding pressure after the pedal is released. I would say there's a bout 1/2" of pedal movement before it starts pushing in the push rod.

Going to rent a puller from autozone to see if I can get these drums off now

[Andydodge]

Get the BIGGEST puller you can find.......this is what I use, it has never met a mopar brake drum that beat it.........lol.........regards, andyd

[Plymouthy Adams]

I could of swore I read you had adjusted the brakes...I normally assumed that you did the brakes inspection and adjustment with the drum off..did not realized it had be circumvented and not set up using the correct device...you can have anything happening in the rear brakes but seeing as this I your first trip in..look to see that the pistons are not returning all the way  due to rust/corrosion/crud