rockin rebel Posted December 4, 2014 Report Posted December 4, 2014 I have a chance to get truck, dirt cheap. Is all the computer problem worth the trouble..? anyone done something similar.?? Quote
Ulu Posted December 4, 2014 Report Posted December 4, 2014 Oh yeah! But then I build computers for fun. YMMV Quote
Smokeybear Posted December 4, 2014 Report Posted December 4, 2014 I have a chance to get truck, dirt cheap. Is all the computer problem worth the trouble..? anyone done something similar.?? Yeah, but I didn't use the computer. I'm putting a magnum 360 and nv3500 into my 48. I used an edlebrock intake and a ready to run distributor to take the computer out of the equation. Thread is here... http://p15-d24.com/topic/37426-360-magnum-nv3500-in-my-48-plymouth/ Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 4, 2014 Report Posted December 4, 2014 go with the computer.....but of course ...it is involved and will need a good understanding of how it works... Quote
Dick41 Posted December 4, 2014 Report Posted December 4, 2014 Hi Reb. Apart from the computer question, I take it you have researched the fit? I decided against a 318 v8 in my 41 Plymouth coupe. I even had a mock up block in the engine compartment. Very tight on the left side.. Fan must go (electric fan will work), battery box needs to be moved, stock steering box doesn't clear the headers and starter (even the 1 1/2 inch offset doesn't do the trick.) High speed starter clears. Then there may be a little sheet metal work on the firewall. Need a rear end that is offset to mate to the offset of the engine and transmission. Please forgive the info. if you already did the research. dick Quote
DonaldSmith Posted December 4, 2014 Report Posted December 4, 2014 Would you really have to offset the differential to be in line with an offset engine? I thought that the drive shaft would be fine as long as the axis of the engine is parallel to the axis of the differential pinion. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 4, 2014 Report Posted December 4, 2014 as long as the offset of the engine imaginary line is parallel with the imaginary center line of the rear axle be it left or right, low or high and or a combination of both..you will be in phase..but do not rule out the angle of the driveshaft for rotational max speed...there is a limit here also... Quote
Smokeybear Posted December 4, 2014 Report Posted December 4, 2014 Hi Reb. Apart from the computer question, I take it you have researched the fit? I decided against a 318 v8 in my 41 Plymouth coupe. I even had a mock up block in the engine compartment. Very tight on the left side.. Fan must go (electric fan will work), battery box needs to be moved, stock steering box doesn't clear the headers and starter (even the 1 1/2 inch offset doesn't do the trick.) High speed starter clears. Then there may be a little sheet metal work on the firewall. Need a rear end that is offset to mate to the offset of the engine and transmission. Please forgive the info. if you already did the research. dick I'm going to have to disagree with some of this. The stock fan will work. I'm even running the serpentine belt and the original fan clutch. I originally moved the 48s stock radiator forward of the mount but since I wanted to run the AC I end up adapting the dakota radiator forward of the radiator brace which gives me even more room. I don't know about headers but I have room with the original manifolds. and starter has plenty of room around the original steering box. No sheet metal work on the firewall other than clearancing the passenger side so that the head has room. I'm not running the stock rear end though. I have an explorer rear in mine that is already offset to the passenger side but others have run a stock rear end with a small block. 1 Quote
rockin rebel Posted December 4, 2014 Author Report Posted December 4, 2014 thanks all. they tell me my trans is a 46RE ??? and it might need the comp. If I can use an edelbrock manifold, great.. I already have the 2004 Grand Prix, rack, so no steering box..I can get a 727 trans. would that bolt up???? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 4, 2014 Report Posted December 4, 2014 if you are continuing to regress by fitting earlier components, whey the 2001 engine..you stated these components though coming to you cheap and is mainly the driving factor but you are not going to end up being cheap with the purchase of component in your bid to eliminate the electronics... Quote
mrwrstory Posted December 4, 2014 Report Posted December 4, 2014 I don't know that trans # but,.....my A-500, an overdrive automatic, from the 90's I believe, was computer controlled. The shifting and lock-up is done via oil pressure. With the help of others smarter than me, and a coupla pressure switches did the trick and I now have automatic, overdrive and carburetors. The car has been on the road for over two years with no problems. It's a pleasure to drive and I don't even think about it shifting anymore. PM me if you want more info/sources. Gimme some time as I'll have to dig for it. - 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 4, 2014 Report Posted December 4, 2014 (edited) your tranny as pictured is a hydraulic shift unit and is not electronically controlled..you have one input with two possible off the input supply..converter lockup and od lock out...this was last used I think in 94...early units wsere A500/A518 and later it was the 42/46RH where R is for wheel and H is hydraulic it is the transmission of choice for retrofit if you are not transferring a complete package from a donor car...as it require only voltage for the LU/OD lockout switch and the neutral safety/B/U switch..zero electronics involved..simple electro mechanical connections.. Edited December 4, 2014 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
rockin rebel Posted December 4, 2014 Author Report Posted December 4, 2014 I just love the info and help on here....some answers are like some guys on the Hamb, but more help here for sure..thanks so far and more info if it is out there.. Quote
LAKOTA169 Posted December 4, 2014 Report Posted December 4, 2014 Hmmmmm. My wife's 2000 Dakota 5.9 R/T has been sitting in the drive for quite a while. I wonder if she would notice that the engine and trans were missing? Or that the '37 Coupe sounds a little more powerful. Quote
wayfarer Posted December 4, 2014 Report Posted December 4, 2014 Yup, the 46 RE requires the computer machine thingy and the 46 RH (like Bill's) can be 'fixed'. If the OP is willing to invest the time then all of the computer related wiring and gizmos could be installed in the project car and all should work out. The other option is to talk with one of the specialty wiring companies that make new harness for just this kind of swap. Quote
rockin rebel Posted December 5, 2014 Author Report Posted December 5, 2014 well I talked with the local, go to, transmission shop.. he agrees with all mentioned and is building me a 518... thanks for all the help.. Quote
Ulu Posted December 5, 2014 Report Posted December 5, 2014 I just love the info and help on here....some answers are like some guys on the Hamb, but more help here for sure..thanks so far and more info if it is out there.. Awwww...it's not just the HAMB. MOPAR's the read-headed stepchild of the Big Three. Always has been. The looks I got back in the day, when I went into some hotrod shops & they found out I had a Plymouth And the comments too! Nowadays things are way more politically correct than 30 or 40 years ago. At least IMO. Quote
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