1950 B-2-D

[1TonDirtyMopar]

When are we going to test fire the motor Mike ? 

 

HAHA maybe this weekend if the weather permits.  I'll be going to the hardware store to get some more nuts and bolts and then the little clips that go around the floor boards to secure them down.

 

Well had no luck getting the rear plug out of the brake master cylinder.  I'm debating on either getting the plug drilled out and then rebuilding OR if I should just look into a modern master and make an adapter to allow it to bolt onto the stock mounting location.

 

Also still on the hunt for a steering box that'll work on my truck.

[Merle Coggins]

Were you not able to build one good steering gear box out of the two that you have?

 

You can still purchase new OEM style master cylinders from many sources.

Merle

[1TonDirtyMopar]

Were you not able to build one good steering gear box out of the two that you have?

 

You can still purchase new OEM style master cylinders from many sources.

Merle

 

Well I don't want to tear into it for fear of breaking something and then not being able to source a replacement.  I think in the long run it might be cheaper for me to just get a whole "new" box.

 

Well I ended up test firing the motor this past weekend.  I swapped the system to a Negative grounding system So I will be changing a few things around.  Just makes more sense in my head since that's what i'm used to.  First time firing the motor since I got it.  I need to get the throttle linkage and choke hooked back up.  As you can see/hear it wants to just rev as high as it can.  Still in the process of cleaning the transmission up and looking for the right sized bolts to be able to bolt the trans to the bellhousing up.  Here's a quick vid from my test fire.

 

https://www.youtube.com/embed/DfhjrEmPCEg

 

Anyone notice anything funny???

Edited May 21, 2015 by 1TonDirtyMopar

[ruff1148kr]

great job so far, keep up the good work   you will be riding in no time the way your moving

[Merle Coggins]

Reminds me of those Castrol commercials with the engines running with an unguarded fan and no radiator.

[1TonDirtyMopar]

Well did a little wrenching this weekend.  I pulled the gas tank off, the inside looks to be in worse shape than my 48 tank.  But then noticed that the sending unit is different than the one i got got my 48.  Also noticed that the filler at the top of the tank sits higher on the 50 tank over the 48.  So i'm going to  test fit the 48 and see if it works as far as reaching the filler neck.

 

Got my brake master rebuilt by a local shop.  Got all new parts on it and got it blasted clean as well.  Now i just need to work on getting a bolt that i snapped on the mount out so i can bolt it down properly.

 

Then i started to tear apart the steering box from the 48 to stick it into the 50.  And since i pulled it apart now i want to rebuild it.

Got the throttle linkage set up I just need to get a gas pedal with rod and i should be good there.

[Dodgeb4ya]

I managed to find the PO's "build" thread.

 

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/48-dodge-farm-truck-transformation-288282.html

What I learned from this link and Hotrodders.com is the easy way to remove parts is with a hot wrench and a 4-1/2" cutting wheel!!!

Total hackers including the previous owner

[1TonDirtyMopar]

Well did some more wrenching on the truck.  Picked up some new bolts and clips for the floor boards, I think I might have got them a little too small though.  I'll test those out once I have the floor board panels cleaned up.

I ended up tearing into the steering column and got the one off the '50 cleaned up.  Just need to download Hanks templates to make my own shims/gaskets.  What material is best used for these?

 

Also finally found the bolts to mount the transmission to the motor.  I did some more cleaning on the transmission.  I wish I had a pressure washer to blast the whole thing down but at least I got all of the old gunk off while wire wheeling.

 

I snagged the top of the radiator shroud from the 48 now to clean it up and bolt it on.

 

Here's some pictures in no particular order.

 

This is the steering box off of the 48.

 

Cleaning up the brake master cylinder cover

 

The rebuilt master cylinder after I picked it up.  I'll snap a better picture tonight.

Edited June 1, 2015 by 1TonDirtyMopar

[1TonDirtyMopar]

Here are pictures of the box that was on the '50.

[1TonDirtyMopar]

Here's the gas tank from the '50.  I thought I had some of the '48,  I'll snap some of that one as well.

 

[1TonDirtyMopar]

Here are some pictures on the difference of height on the filler neck from the 50 and the 48.  The 48 is on the left and as you can see the filler neck is shorter vs the 50 which is much taller.

 

 

Here's more of the Master Cylinder

Edited June 10, 2015 by 1TonDirtyMopar

[1TonDirtyMopar]

Here's the water neck I plan on using.  I had to clean the inside up to get some rust out of there.  that was fun....not...

 

Here's the TOB retainer that came off of the 48.

 

[1TonDirtyMopar]

Here's the one that came off of the 50 fluid drive trans that came with the motor.  I had already cleaned it up here.

 

Here's some of the gas tank.  The mounting flange that goes toward the front of the truck was a bit rusty and well I popped the spot welds off and grinded off as much rust as I possibly could.  I will be doing the same to the rear flanges as well.  All of this in preparation of getting the tank ready for cleaning and sealing with the KBS coating system.  I will be using the truck bedliner spray on the exterior to make it a little more durable and to seal it off.

 

 

[1TonDirtyMopar]

[1TonDirtyMopar]

I also managed to find this bad boy and snagged it in comparison to the other one at $125.

 

Also snagged one of these up to help me start getting anything I can fit in it really clean.  I know people have had issues with these leaking and what not so i'll be addressing those when I start to assemble.

 

[1TonDirtyMopar]

Well it's been a while since I've had a chance to work on the truck.  Been busy working on other little projects.  I'm ready to drop the transmission in to the truck but was wondering what the easiest way to do it would be.  Coming up from underneath or going in through the door?  I think this will be my major project for the weekend.  Then I can get the driveshaft installed and see if I can't get this truck moving under its own power.

[Jeff Balazs]

Up from below. With a helper it is a fairly easy job. A couple of homemade alignment studs helps too.

Jeff

[1TonDirtyMopar]

Thanks Jeff.  I hope to not have any hiccups and be able to bolt that trans in this weekend.

[1TonDirtyMopar]

Well finally got the clutch and pressure plate bolted up and also the transmission.  FINALLY!!!  Thanks to my buddy Jordan who came by to help me get that heavy thing up and into it's new home.  I test fit the drive shaft that came with the truck and it fits great.  I'll be looking for the new u-joint this weekend and looking to get the seal for the yolk to drive shaft.  Enough chit chat here's some pics.

 

[1TonDirtyMopar]

 

[1TonDirtyMopar]

[1TonDirtyMopar]

Howdy folks!  I'm still alive and so is the project.  I'm in the process of getting the 2nd u-joint for the drive shaft.  From the local shop it's a Precision 305 u-joint, however it is discontinued.  Apparently the Moog 305 U-joint will work so i'll be ordering one of those tonight.  I hope to have the pedals along with their springs in this weekend and then I can continue to work on getting some of the wiring done to fire the motor yet again.  I also still need to get the radiator tested out and fixed if possible, if not buy a new one.

[1TonDirtyMopar]

Well finally got both of the u-joints in. After buying 2 "Moog 305 U-joints" off of vendors on Amazon and 2 returns later I ended up purchasing the u-joint through Summit Racing.  Now that I have both of them I will be pressing them in hopefullly this week and then have the driveshaft installed this weekend.

 

Does anyone know if I were to sand down the driveshaft would it affect the balance of the shaft?  Mine has a lot of surface rust and i'd like to get it off before throwing it onto the truck again.  What if i were to primer and paint it as well?

 

Then I need to figure out how I'm going to mount the pedals again and then get all the linkage for the throttle on, I already bought new return springs for the brake and clutch pedals.  Then the fun part of rewiring the whole truck and fixing my gas tank and getting my original radiator checked out and fixed/replaced if neccessary.  Oh and can't forget the brakes!  Need to fix a mounting hole I screwed up for the master cylinder then I can mount it and run the brake lines.  Then i need to check to make sure the brakes are in good order.  Still need to finish putting my steering box back together and remounting the steering wheel.  I think that's the list for now. LOL  Oh and going to neeed new tires as well.  I would love to have the centers put on some modern tubless rims but that might be a pretty penny to do.

[JBNeal]

Just a thought: sand that driveshaft with 80 grit to knock down the loose rust, degrease and clean thoroughly, prime and paint with foam brush / roller using Rustoleum primer and semi-gloss black...that approach should only cost a few bucks, give ya decent results for something rarely eyeballed, and not damage the shaft

[1TonDirtyMopar]

Thanks JB.  I did hit it with a flap wheel but i think i'm going to hit it with the 80 grit and see how that works out.  I'm not afraid of a little primer and paint. LOL  hopefully weather permits this weekend and i'll be laying out under the truck working on stuff.