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Posted (edited)

Ah now I see what you were talking about Mike -  hope you can find a set of bolts that will work.  Keep pushing forward !

Edited by Falbz
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Well I should be getting my stuff back from Randall over at Tennessee Clutch soon.  Also got the upper and lower rear mounts from Jeff.  Waiting on the front mount to be shipped.  Then just getting the bolts and nuts for the flywheel to crank.  Little by little....

Posted (edited)

Well the clutch should be here this week.  Hopefully the motormount i ordered will arrive around the same time.  Also thanks to Brent and TrampSteer I'll have another set of running boards to work with to make my Express truck come to life. 

 

Also while I was cruising the interwebs I decided to look up the logo on the side of the truck.  It says "Funky Junk Farms"  so i googled it and it turns out it used to be used as a prop truck.  When i searched a little more through the pictures guess what i found?  You bet a picture of the truck as it used to be.  So this truck looks like it used to be a motorhome!  Too bad the side view mirrors are no longer there.

 

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Edited by 1TonDirtyMopar
  • Like 4
Posted

Well the clutch came in today.  Man she's a beaut!  Randall took really good care of me.  I'll let the pictures do the talking.  Everything got stripped down cleaned up and ready for install.

 

Got my e-brake band got relined

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Clutch is now all one piece/full faced

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  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

The pressure plate was completely rebuilt.  Looks like new everything minus the cage.

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Any tricks for removing the old pilot bearing and installing the new one?  Also going to need to get the flywheel cleaned up and get all new hardware.

Edited by 1TonDirtyMopar
  • Like 1
Posted

To remove the old pilot bearing completely fill the hole with grease as much as you can get in there leaving no pockets of air. Then find a dowel rod (or possibly use the new alignment tool) the exact size of the pilot hole. Drive the dowel rod into the old pilot bushing and the hydraulic action of the non compressible grease will force the old bushing out.

  • Like 1
Posted

seriously consider having the flywheel resurfaced if you haven't done so. It's part of a quality clutch job, will ensure smooth clutch operation, provides a fresh, flat surface for your new flat disc to run on.

Posted

Also thanks to Brent and TrampSteer I'll have another set of running boards to work with to make my Express truck come to life. 

 

Mutual thanks Mike. Finally got my e-brake together with your parts help!

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Dave I'll definitely be getting the flywheel resurfaced.  There's way too much crap on there to just throw it back on and expect everything to be fine and dandy.  Going to look for a local machine shop to handle it.

 

Glad the parts worked Mike.  They would have just sat on that transmission until I figured out what to do with it.

 

Front motormount has been delivered so only thing missing for me to mount motor and bell housing is the new hardware.  Then the fun of wiring and plumbing wires and lines begins!

 

I started to tear down the brake master cylinder and the piston is stuck.  I'm thinking I may have to use my air compressor and see if it'll shoot the piston out.  Also tried getting the plug on the opposite end of the pushrod out but that is stuck/stripped.  Should I fight the battle to rebuild it or just buy a better or even go to a brand new one?  I'll try and get some pictures soon.

Edited by 1TonDirtyMopar
Posted

When you do the flywheel make sure the machine shop can surface grind the final finish. Most flywheels have hard spots that cause a lathe cutting tool to "chatter" and not give a good finish.

 

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  • Like 1
Posted

Dave and Don I had the flywheel resurfaced this weekend.  Was going to try and get some of the parts bolted to get the motor ready to get dropped in but ended up spending today working on a buddy's car.  Swapped out the front lower control arm bushings and ball joint then swapped the OE rear lower control arms with some aftermarket arms to give more to and camber adjustment in the rear.  I started to get some of the original bolts together to find replacements so I'll try and get to that this week/weekend to get the motor mounted.

 

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Does anybody have a spare clutch/flywheel cover that bolts onto the bottom of the bellhousing?

Posted

Welp finally got the motor stuffed back into the truck thanks to my buddy Jordan for swinging by and giving me a helping hand.

 

Some new Grade 8 hardware.

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Got the bellhousing hooked up

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And finally....Now to get the radiator tested out and everyone's favorite part.....the wiring!!

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Posted

Yea.  I'm going for the "Cold Air" type of set up....LOL...I do enjoy wiring especially when you have all of the right pieces to just make it all flow nicely together.  I did some wiring harnesses and what not for my Neon so I purchased a lot of wire, wire loom, heat shrink, ring terminals, spade terminals, etc...I should be good for a while.  Stay tuned for a video of the firing of the new to me engine!

Posted

Great job, full speed ahead. Looking forward to the video.

Posted

Got a package coming in consisting of the flywheel dust cover.  Also been researching brake stuff.  The plug at the back of my original brake master is seized in there and well trying to get it out is proving to be a pain.  I'm going to try and take a torch to it tonight and see if that'll allow it to crack loose.  I've been spraying it with WD-40 rust penetrant over the last few days probably close to a week now.  We shall see what happens.  I'm looking to rebuild it but if it can't be broken down then I guess i'll have to bite the bullet and drill it OR just replace it.  Also does anyone know the thread size on the brake switch?  I'm trying to move away from the bullet connectors and go to spade connectors if possible.

Posted (edited)

Well I got the starter all bolted in and started to do some wiring to get it test fired.  Ran out of time and sunlight so it'll have to wait.

 

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I was trying to get the steering box from the 48 into the 50.  After some struggling I realized it was too fat and the mounting points were way different.

 

This is the mounting location for the 48

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This is for the 50

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Now it wouldn't be a big deal except the fact that the PO of the 50 couldn't figure out how to remove the steering wheel and box in one piece so he cut it and also started to disassemble the steering box which is now useless.

 

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And this is the mounting flange for the 48 steering box

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So now i'm on the hunt for the 50 steering box and column.  Anyone have one for sale?

Edited by 1TonDirtyMopar
Posted

I pulled the e-brake drum to have it resurfaced since it had some surface rust on it.  Turns out it was a little out of round and they cleaned it up for me.  I'll get a picture up a little later for that one.  I also pulled the yoke and had the shop (Mile's Autoparts) locate me a new u joint.  The oil seal on the yoke was broken so I removed it and will need to order a new one from VPW.

 

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Then I started to clean up some of the linkage.

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and cleaned up and mounted

 

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Posted

Wow! He sounds like a hack. "Everything is seized up and I can't get it apart." Apparently he didn't have the proper tools.

He must have realized that he was in over his head shortly after his last post...

 

Merle

  • Like 1
Posted

Wow! He sounds like a hack. "Everything is seized up and I can't get it apart." Apparently he didn't have the proper tools.

He must have realized that he was in over his head shortly after his last post...

 

Merle

yea I managed to separate the steering wheel with some wd40 rust penetrant and a swift blow to the shaft. Also managed to pull the pitman arm off the drag link with some peneteating oil and a swift blow with a mallet. Easy Peasy. Or he coulda just pulled the whole unit out in one piece.

  

fyi the internals of the B-series gearboxes are interchangeable...I took the guts out of a '51 gearbox & put it in my '49, works pretty good :cool:

ill have to take a look at that. I wanted to just keep at least one all in tact.

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